tommy321

Hey guys...

I'm putting the finishing touches on my first CAD -> scratch built. It's a 36" Giles for electric. I tried out an idea I had for getting the rib patterns onto the sheet balsa to be cut out.

I used the printer paper you can get for making custom tshirts. You can print on it using an inkjet printer, and then iron it onto the balsa. It worked well, however it just took some practice on my part to get the patterns to set with the iron without shifting.

It made for some fast and easy wing ribs. I just cut them out with a No. 11 blade, and then sanded up to the line. One evening infront of the TV, and I had all my ribs ready

I'm sure this is an old problem, with many many solutions. What tricks do you guys use for transferring patterns from the computer to your balsa?

Tom

BMatthews

Now this sounds like a neato idea. Where did you get the transfer paper?

I'd make up special files of "printwood" and do them up on this paper. With a little effort the parts could dovetail together so the wood wastage is minimal but all the parts are whole from transfer to transfer.

Some ideas to immobilize the paper during the printing would be nice. I know the T shirt places use a large press.

Heavy Date

Cad, to my laser cutter, to the build table
Hans

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

Print to paper, then 'spray gleu' teh paper to teh wood. Cut out, and if done properly (lightly sprayed), teh paper can be peeled off after teh parts are cut.

jester1a

My Feedback: (1)

How about just printing to regular paper, putting the printed paper print side down over balsa, and then ironing the paper? The ink somewhat transfers to the balsa getting you to the same place but a little cheaper.

JESTER

BMatthews

I tried the ironing bit with laser printed copy and found that I didn't get a very good image at all. Anyone got any suggestions for settings and line thickness to use for that?

Ink jet can be transferred with a wipe of the right sort of solvent but here again all I got was smudged lines. Nothing I'd want to cut from.

As for YOU Heavy Date all I can offer is an envious... PHHHTTTHTHTHT! TO YOU

patternwannabee

My Feedback: (1)

Ditto for Dr_Wogz's method. I should add that if the paper doesn't want to peel off, try a little heat from your covering gun and that should make it easier to peel.

One other method which I have used successfully is to actually epoxy the printed paper directly onto the wood (all of course on the inside).

This is a method that was advocated by the late Gus Ozols of the Boxer series of pattern planes. At first I was dubious, and thought it would add a whole lot of weight, but surprisingly, I was able to stay under 8 lbs on the Boxer 90 with a YS. The paper also served to strengthen the contest balsa, so thinner balsa could be used. Gus' contention was that additionally, you would save money by using less (thinner) balsa. He used 15# plotter paper.

One advantage to the epoxy on method is that you can have reference lines for formers, etc.

JonnyJohnston

In the past I have made photo copies of plans and then ironed them onto the sheet balsa. The toner is a plastic based compund and will transfer to the balsa quite nicely, in addition it is cheaper than the transfer sheets.

antonio104

Another method is to place the plans face down on top of the wood and wipe the plans with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner. Transfer is good even on plywood. For more information enter: "STEP by STEP PARTS TRANSFER TO YOUR WOOD" in your web search engine.

Heavy Date

Bruce,
I could not help it!
For real though, a great way is to print out the parts on paper and cut them out. Then use 3M spray mount, not the 77 stuff as it is too sticky. Spray some on the back of the paper not the wood. Then lay it on the wood and cut out around the edge. The nice thing about spray mount is it stays on what you spray it on so no glue will be on the wood. It also peels up VERY easy and stays tacky so you can lay the pattern down several times before you need to spray it again.

This is how I used to do it.
Hans

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Well... It seems that I go about it the hard way. I cut the printed paper into parts, then I lay them on my desk (metal top) and put shipping tape over them and cut'em out again. Flip and repeat. When I'm through I have a full set of templates to keep or pass on.

Bruferrit

My Feedback: (19)

I have access to a CNC router & I'm going to cut mine out of 1/16 Laminate so I can use them over & over again.

Bruce G.

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Umm, Why not just cut them out of balsa?!

Amazing that nobody uses carbon paper.

Bruferrit

My Feedback: (19)

I would but if I cut them out of Laminate then I have them any time I need them. I still have to try cutting balsa on our CNC machine. the bed is for 4'x8' ply and uses a vacume to hold ply in place, But I am going to give it a try soon.

SeenMCrash

I go to the local art store and buy large sheets of carbon paper, or tracing paper. You know, the stuff that stores used to make imprints of your credit card with. I put the balsa on the table, the carbon paper (carbon face down), then put the plans on top. Finally, I run a marlinspike (or any dull object) along the lines I want to trace. I pull of the paper, and everything is neatly drawn onto the wood. Carbon paper is also inexpensive. -Andrew