Scratch building 105" WS S Connie L-1049 (Pics added)
10-26-2012, 09:05 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Noticed irregularity in one of the nacelle wing fairing, it turned out as some sort of buildup, it was lightly sanded off, then flipped and placed the wing inverted and went over all 4 nacelles undersides and wing nacelle joint fairings, sanded where sanding was needed to smooth out the surface. Auto glazing putty was then added to inside outer walls of both inner nacelles #3 and #4, even #1 and #4 nacelles wing joints fairings also needed bit of glazing.
This all started when I puller off the making and tape from the upper wing's surface, primer and tiny bit of glazing was pulled, had to fill those spots, so went on lower side also.
I used one of my few 1/400 scale Aeroclassic S Connie models and books with pictures of upper wings surfaces for reference...
This all started when I puller off the making and tape from the upper wing's surface, primer and tiny bit of glazing was pulled, had to fill those spots, so went on lower side also.
I used one of my few 1/400 scale Aeroclassic S Connie models and books with pictures of upper wings surfaces for reference...
10-27-2012, 01:39 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Center wing has been painted completely and now paint is drying in my make shift paint booth!, Raining and cold outside, so have to get this model ready for show tomorrow so doing all I can do, once again running against the time!. Next step is to install CF telescopic tubes for opposite side flap and then install the flap. They will be manually operated as I just don't have time to make the servos operated at this time, after that or during I also plan on least installing couple of motors on the nacelles and have props on them!, some thing different then previous events!....
10-27-2012, 08:14 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Full wing was assembled, CF cowl dome and motor mount was first installed on the #2 nacelle's firewall, then mount was half taken apart, motor was mounter, mount was reassembled, then cowl was placed over the new motor, mount and the dome piece for alignment purpose, it was taped and supported in place with piece of wooden strip from the bottom and then finally first 13x8 MS 3 blade propeller was dry installed!....
10-28-2012, 04:56 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Thanks for sharing this all these years. I’ve been following along though the years and it is good to see that you are approaching the end game. You may have covered this some place, but how will one flap servo connect to the fowler flap mechanism? I assume from the wheel on the servo, cables of some type are involved.
10-29-2012, 02:01 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Yesterday we both were invited at a diecast model show as special guests, here she is with 2 motors, props and flap installed standing on her own for the first time!...
10-29-2012, 02:10 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105
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Thanks for sharing this all these years. I’ve been following along though the years and it is good to see that you are approaching the end game. You may have covered this some place, but how will one flap servo connect to the fowler flap mechanism? I assume from the wheel on the servo, cables of some type are involved.
Thanks for sharing this all these years. I’ve been following along though the years and it is good to see that you are approaching the end game. You may have covered this some place, but how will one flap servo connect to the fowler flap mechanism? I assume from the wheel on the servo, cables of some type are involved.
Yes I know you have been, well pls don't say "end game" as phase 2 will start then when will ground testing of all systems n final phase will be maiden flight. Now with weather crapping out, lets see when phase 2 will start as i want to do taxi trials as part of it. As for flaps, a 6" CF arm will be placed on the sail servo that will turn 180 degrees, nyrods will be connected with one end at this CF arm and other at LE of the flaps, when it will turn, it will push flaps out 3-3/16" all the way to tip edge of wing's TE n then will retract also...
10-29-2012, 07:00 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Hi Sam,
The arm length will only have to be about 3.5 inches tip to tip. 180 degrees will give you the 3 inch plus for flap movement. Where the nyrods connect to the arm be sure to cut room in the foam for the nyrods to swing thru the arc without bending or binding. The connecting rods to the nyrods should be about 6 inches long made from 1/16 inch rod threaded at one end. Run the rods into the nyrods with an electric drill (be sure to hold the nyrod securly with pliers when using the drill).
Keep up the great work on her.
George
The arm length will only have to be about 3.5 inches tip to tip. 180 degrees will give you the 3 inch plus for flap movement. Where the nyrods connect to the arm be sure to cut room in the foam for the nyrods to swing thru the arc without bending or binding. The connecting rods to the nyrods should be about 6 inches long made from 1/16 inch rod threaded at one end. Run the rods into the nyrods with an electric drill (be sure to hold the nyrod securly with pliers when using the drill).
Keep up the great work on her.
George
10-29-2012, 08:26 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
ORIGINAL: ampbomber
Hi Sam,
The arm length will only have to be about 3.5 inches tip to tip. 180 degrees will give you the 3 inch plus for flap movement. Where the nyrods connect to the arm be sure to cut room in the foam for the nyrods to swing thru the arc without bending or binding. The connecting rods to the nyrods should be about 6 inches long made from 1/16 inch rod threaded at one end. Run the rods into the nyrods with an electric drill (be sure to hold the nyrod securly with pliers when using the drill).
Keep up the great work on her.
George
Hi Sam,
The arm length will only have to be about 3.5 inches tip to tip. 180 degrees will give you the 3 inch plus for flap movement. Where the nyrods connect to the arm be sure to cut room in the foam for the nyrods to swing thru the arc without bending or binding. The connecting rods to the nyrods should be about 6 inches long made from 1/16 inch rod threaded at one end. Run the rods into the nyrods with an electric drill (be sure to hold the nyrod securly with pliers when using the drill).
Keep up the great work on her.
George
Thanks George, I had been putting so much time into this baby and at times my mind stops thinking properly....I know you watch over so I'm relaxed a bit. Yes you are right 3" will do it and I will cut down 6" CF arm that I ordered to 3" and that will do the trick...
10-31-2012, 10:59 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Another Huge MILESTONE achieved tonite!!!
CF domes cleaned from access flash, sanded smooth and even at the mounting ring, 2 remaining mounts bought n brought home, installed with CF domes n then all 4 motors were also installed!!....This marks another huge milestone towards completion of this project.....
CF domes cleaned from access flash, sanded smooth and even at the mounting ring, 2 remaining mounts bought n brought home, installed with CF domes n then all 4 motors were also installed!!....This marks another huge milestone towards completion of this project.....
11-01-2012, 04:57 PM
#1539
RE: Scratch building 105
Great news! But be very careful my friend. I’ve been in this hobby for decades and I don’t know of anything more scary and dangerous than LIPO batteries and electric motors with razor sharp propellers on them (X 4 dangerous in your case).
11-01-2012, 10:59 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
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Great news! But be very careful my friend. I’ve been in this hobby for decades and I don’t know of anything more scary and dangerous than LIPO batteries and electric motors with razor sharp propellers on them (X 4 dangerous in your case).
Great news! But be very careful my friend. I’ve been in this hobby for decades and I don’t know of anything more scary and dangerous than LIPO batteries and electric motors with razor sharp propellers on them (X 4 dangerous in your case).
Why did you said that, it's these three elements that has made electric models as popular as they are now days, otherwise up till 5-6 years ago, only handful of people would only touch electric powered models...I know i wouldn't back then, but now it's the safest way to multi engine models....
11-02-2012, 09:29 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105
A lot of people are complacent with electrics, thinking of when they were wimpy, today's electrics are sometimes more powerful than glow setups and with a thin sharp prop are very dangerous. (think of a real big food processor)
Add to that the li-pols are dangerous if mishandled or abused and you have something that is scarey to a lot of people...
Add to that the li-pols are dangerous if mishandled or abused and you have something that is scarey to a lot of people...
11-02-2012, 11:37 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Ok i get it Paul, yeah blenders are scary to be around with unless a lot of precaution is used....U r right on account of electric power plants being more powerful then there glow counter parts, lets see, this will be interesting to see....
11-02-2012, 12:05 PM
#1543
RE: Scratch building 105
I’m just saying be careful. I’ve witnessed some pretty nasty stuff and it always seems to happen to people that are very experienced electric power users. It is almost like if you do it long enough you’ll let your guard down and bang, it gets you!
I think if I was dealing with the power you have I’d build a frame to hold the aircraft that you could bolt to a heavy work bench in your shop and you could stake to the ground at the field. Then only connect arming plugs when it was locked down in the fame. I’ve seen a number of motors go to full power when the flyer did not expect it; one was a helicopter that was setting on a field bench. That was pretty scary, almost took the flyers head off.
One of our club members came dang close to burning his house completely to the ground with a LIPO fire. Even if the fire is contained in one area the mess it makes is very hard to clean up. If I was using LIPOs like yours I think I might get a small metal shed and store them away from my house. The inflight fires have been pretty spectacular too.
Not trying to be argumentative, just sharing what I’ve seen and experienced.
I think if I was dealing with the power you have I’d build a frame to hold the aircraft that you could bolt to a heavy work bench in your shop and you could stake to the ground at the field. Then only connect arming plugs when it was locked down in the fame. I’ve seen a number of motors go to full power when the flyer did not expect it; one was a helicopter that was setting on a field bench. That was pretty scary, almost took the flyers head off.
One of our club members came dang close to burning his house completely to the ground with a LIPO fire. Even if the fire is contained in one area the mess it makes is very hard to clean up. If I was using LIPOs like yours I think I might get a small metal shed and store them away from my house. The inflight fires have been pretty spectacular too.
Not trying to be argumentative, just sharing what I’ve seen and experienced.
11-02-2012, 12:30 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
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Even if the fire is contained in one area the mess it makes is very hard to clean up. If I was using LIPOs like yours I think I might get a small metal shed and store them away from my house.
Even if the fire is contained in one area the mess it makes is very hard to clean up. If I was using LIPOs like yours I think I might get a small metal shed and store them away from my house.
....looking good Sammy - nice mounts - how about making another carbon piece and bolting to the bench ??
11-02-2012, 02:41 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
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I’m just saying be careful. I’ve witnessed some pretty nasty stuff and it always seems to happen to people that are very experienced electric power users. It is almost like if you do it long enough you’ll let your guard down and bang, it gets you!
I think if I was dealing with the power you have I’d build a frame to hold the aircraft that you could bolt to a heavy work bench in your shop and you could stake to the ground at the field. Then only connect arming plugs when it was locked down in the fame. I’ve seen a number of motors go to full power when the flyer did not expect it; one was a helicopter that was setting on a field bench. That was pretty scary, almost took the flyers head off.
One of our club members came dang close to burning his house completely to the ground with a LIPO fire. Even if the fire is contained in one area the mess it makes is very hard to clean up. If I was using LIPOs like yours I think I might get a small metal shed and store them away from my house. The inflight fires have been pretty spectacular too.
Not trying to be argumentative, just sharing what I’ve seen and experienced.
I’m just saying be careful. I’ve witnessed some pretty nasty stuff and it always seems to happen to people that are very experienced electric power users. It is almost like if you do it long enough you’ll let your guard down and bang, it gets you!
I think if I was dealing with the power you have I’d build a frame to hold the aircraft that you could bolt to a heavy work bench in your shop and you could stake to the ground at the field. Then only connect arming plugs when it was locked down in the fame. I’ve seen a number of motors go to full power when the flyer did not expect it; one was a helicopter that was setting on a field bench. That was pretty scary, almost took the flyers head off.
One of our club members came dang close to burning his house completely to the ground with a LIPO fire. Even if the fire is contained in one area the mess it makes is very hard to clean up. If I was using LIPOs like yours I think I might get a small metal shed and store them away from my house. The inflight fires have been pretty spectacular too.
Not trying to be argumentative, just sharing what I’ve seen and experienced.
I had a li-pol that I set on the back seat of my wife's 4 year old truck go off, you can't let your guard down with these things, I did and haven't heard the end of it. (I won't let my guard down again, my wife keeps reminding me anyway.
)And with the type of power available with these things it not like the battery toys we had in the 50's or 60's... A few guy's in our club fly some 1/4 scale electrics, they just as dangerous as any gas power ones, you have to treat them just like they have a DA under the cowl (with the added chance of them spinning up when you don't expect it).
11-02-2012, 04:16 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Guys,
12 years ago when I began using lipos I made up a storage/transportation case shown in the picture. It consisted of a 16 inch tool box lined with 3/8 dry wall. I feel safe driving 1200 miles with my lipos in this container. I now have 3 of these for storage and transportation.
George
12 years ago when I began using lipos I made up a storage/transportation case shown in the picture. It consisted of a 16 inch tool box lined with 3/8 dry wall. I feel safe driving 1200 miles with my lipos in this container. I now have 3 of these for storage and transportation.
George
11-02-2012, 05:27 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
ORIGINAL: ampbomber
Guys,
12 years ago when I began using lipos I made up a storage/transportation case shown in the picture. It consisted of a 16 inch tool box lined with 3/8 dry wall. I feel safe driving 1200 miles with my lipos in this container. I now have 3 of these for storage and transportation.
George
Guys,
12 years ago when I began using lipos I made up a storage/transportation case shown in the picture. It consisted of a 16 inch tool box lined with 3/8 dry wall. I feel safe driving 1200 miles with my lipos in this container. I now have 3 of these for storage and transportation.
George
11-02-2012, 11:34 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105
All these are words of wisdom for me and I will take these as you guys have indicated these to me. Tomorrow I'm going to change some hardware that i'm using right now, from what you guys said, I doubt those 16 wood screws are going to hold on to these mounts on the firewalls for more then couple full power bursts......
11-03-2012, 01:22 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Flap is being installed in the right flaps bay presently. First CF tube for OB telescopic rod has been glued in the wing at right angle, Inner tube's rear hole's diameter had to be increased a bit to get proper angle, that done with tube dry installed...Dry fitted the flap on its aluminum slider actuator by making a locking notch on the spar location of the flap panel, it's looking pretty good when fully extended as both flaps have same articulation and same pivot angle at full extension....
11-07-2012, 08:03 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105
Yesterday I started to feel bit relaxed from the weekend's tiredness, so slowly getting back on last bits of the remaining build. Found 1 Plush 60A Esc NIP, couple extra props, cf pushrods for rudder and elevator control, three 2" 3 blade spinners, out of which one is damaged but will do as mock up to be modified and fit on these large props. I have already marked the pegs in the spinner that will be sanded as 1/4 round shape with drum sander, this will allow prop hub to fit in the spinners easily. I will find out if opening for the blades would also need opening up or not once these pegs are sanded first.
Also balanced 2 of the 4 props, man it's long and slow process, after all 4 props are balanced, they will be painted metallic silver. Same paint will be applied on all 4 spinners also.
Also balanced 2 of the 4 props, man it's long and slow process, after all 4 props are balanced, they will be painted metallic silver. Same paint will be applied on all 4 spinners also.