Hello,

I have a question for the float plane guys... If a SEAMASTER (or look alike) was to be reproduced what size would you have more interest in, 120 size or a 91 size... The plane would have the lines of the Ace Seamaster with some improvements and have several options for construction to save weight..

Inquiring minds want to know..[sm=idea.gif]

Scott

Kit or ARF?

Jim

Jim,

Could be a kit or a ARC...

scott

Scott:

The Seamaster 120 has been done (by ACE) and there are still plenty of unbuilt kits around. (Primarily because it didn't fly very well.)

If you want to do something really nice, kit the Sea Dancer 120 that Fred Reese never got to finish. Arguably the best flying boat ever and as far as I know he only finished 2 or 3 kits before his untimely death.

I'd be a customer for one of those.

Jim

I'd love to see a 60 (91 4-stroke) size Seamaster clone

Jim,

Why did the seamaster not fly well ? Other than with the wood they used and it weighing a ton.. With some new constuction ideas 2-4 pounds could be taken off...Ther has been some changes already looked at other than weight..
Are there any plans for the Sea Dancer around ?

scott

The Seamaster 120 had serious yaw stability problems and structural problems with the t-tail. And yes, it weighed a ton.

RCM has plans for the 60 size Sea Dancer. I don't know about plans for the 120, but it had about an 8 foot wingspan, plug-in wings, and flaps.

Jim

Keep us informed Scott
there should be interest in this great plane ( boat ? )

Jean

I vote for a 80" ARF

Just from noting numbers of engines at my field, I would say there are many times more .61s and .91 4-strokes than 1.20 4-strokes. While the 1.20 (now a 1.40) caught on for pattern, it never seemed to be that popular with sport fliers compared to the .46 and .61 2-strokes and .91 4-stroke. At least this is true in the area where I live with 3 clubs.

The other 1.20 flying boat, the Mariner 120, probably doesn't sell any where as many as the Mariner 40. Certainly, you are going to have a few enthusiasts that like a 120 sized plane, but for the mass market I would go count engines. I'll bet there are many more .91 4-strokes around than there are 1.20 4-strokes, pattern excepted.

The other thing is price. A 120 size ARF will be up near $500 like the Mariner 120. This figure also puts the plane in a less desirable position for mass sales.

Seaplanes are a limited market anyway, so I would not further limit myself to a less popular engine and a much higher price. You might offer a .46 and .91 size ARF and a special order 1.20 size builder's kit of the same basic design.

I can't agree with you more on the Sea Dance 60. Its got to be the best flying sea bird that Iv'e ever flown or Iv'e seen on the market, unfortunately like any good kit it is now gone. But I hope by next year I'll have my 30% Sea Dancer flying, wingspan 114", don't know what I'm going to use for power, 30-40cc gas, but it should be one magnificent flying machine. I'm flying the 60 size now with a Satio 80 4-stroke and it does everything you could imagine. I fly it off water, off grass and snow.

I have not flown many see planes, but the Sea Dancer was the first and by far my most favorite. She could do just about anthing that you asked of her. If i was to ever really get into sea planes, this would be the one for me.

How about a Lanier Mariner 120?

Here's another vote for the 60 size Seadancer. Flies great with a .91 four stroke and not bad with a 60 2s either.

As far as flight is concerned, I have not found a better sport and acrobatic flyer than the "Sea Cruiser", which is no longer in production, but the plans came with the kit and can be used to reproduce the plane. I have built and flown about 4 Sea Dancers and find it has too many quirks and I managed to crash them all. My Sea Master (.46) flies well, but not a very exciting acrobat. Sea Cruiser has to be built with the triple rudder to be the best sea plane I own. I have built three of them now, and so far two of them have proven to be excellent. Either a 90 or 120 size would be great, but remember transporting.

Northstars are getting very popular up here in Alberta Canada. One of the fellows is building a 50% larger one and will be putting in a 120 two stroke. It has plug in wings and a removeable stab. That gets my vote for a big ARF!
Peter [8D]

I understand the Seacruiser is a good plane but don't see the Seadancer as quirky. What is it that you find quirky? I've flown mine extensively since shortly after the design came out without experiencing anything that would particularly lead to crashing. On quick recall I can think of at least ten different ones that have been flown locally with no one finding it quirky. Maybe you got a quirky plan?

Northstar is a really different plane, and the one I built (Balsa USA-.46) flew very well. The takeoff is beautiful and a wonder because the whole thing is sitting in the water. Landings were also great, adn it flies like the wind. Abigger one would have to be a joy to fly. I'm thinking about building another one after the grumman Widgeon gets finished. My first Northstar wound up on a tree when a gust of wind knocked off my hat and the hands reactively tried to retrieve it (the hat). One should never let go the transmitter controls for any reason; especially for a plane that flies so fast.

Would be very interested in a SeaMaster/Mariner type clone, with a full fiberglass fuse. This would help alleviate some of the problems with leaking on the built up fuse. A built up wing is fine, but I really want a full fiberglass fuse. 80" Ws would be about the right size for a .60 to 1.20 size
Tommy

Add me to the list of folks who want an 80" Seamaster. My top choice would be an ARC but an ARF would be fine.

I'm looking for a kit of the Sea Dancer or some one that could possibly kit the parts for me.

Thanks,
Shawn

[8D] I purchased an Ace Seamaster 120 a month ago which was already built but had never been flown. I have flown it 20 times in the past two weeks, twice with the langing gear attached and the remainder on the water. I "love it !" There is a mod where you add a three inch tall fin on the top of the right and left end of the horizontal stabilizer to correct the problem many experienced with yawl instability. This mod is not included with the plans

Here's the link to the May 1996 RCM plans Jim referred to:

[link]http://www.rcmmagazine.com/e/env/0001kgoQOmf7U6U4N86o4S3/store/store-plans.html?link=/store/store-plans-list-7.html[/link]

Select plan number pl-1214 (for some reason this site inserts a smiley face in the plan URL, which boogers up the link).

Nice proportions...

pj

Hello fellows, I have recently finished a scratch built twin hulled Seamaster that I modified a little and it flys just fine. Modifications include;vee to the hulls ahead of the steps,7inch addition to the fuselages,increased area of the vertical stabilizer and also the rudder,30 inch addition to the wing with full symetrical airfoil and no dyhederal,wingspan is now 90 inches.t-tail is now 28 inches,power is two O.S. 50sx. the airplane is a real vertical hotrod if one is so inclined. Prio to that I built a Dynaflite C-47 and put it on modified Great Planes floats and it too flys very well with two O.S.32 sx. I also have and fly a Mariner 120 with Satio 180 for power. I would gladly pay for either a Mariner or a Seamaster 120 size with fiberglass fuselage and I know of several of our club members who would do the same.Bring them on.

I have build four Sea Dancers from plans bought through RC Modeller Magazine. The first order was to make templates from thick plastic sold by See Temp, and now whenever I want to build it, simply get out the templates and plans and cut the parts from balsa and ply wood. The fuselage is mostly 3/8" sq. Balsa. There are still a few kits in someone's garage or attic, but even those seem to be short kits and you have to furnish the balsa stringers. I recently built the short kit adn was disappointed by the poor fit of the formers, which were laser cut. I like my method better. Good luck.

Mac