Had to post this for yous water guys too...
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Had to post this for yous water guys too...
Ok, go with me on this one........
I have access to some 2.5" blue high density foam... and a few 25cc (i guess) engines from commercial landscaping blowers. I am thinking about carving a Seaplane ala the 1.20 Mariner. Carving wings with a yardstick spar, sheeting in balsa with wing floats.
I plan on gluing three pieces of foam together, carving the sea hull with a step on it, adding spray rails when sheeting in balsa, and i think glassing for waterproofing and toughness.
The engine pod above the wing (i can go to 10' wing span here!!! i wanna make her huge, if you hadn't guessed by now.) will require some thought......plywood sandwiching the foam???
So, there is my plan, i need ideas from yous guys.
I have a ton o' questions...
Does the fuel tank haveta be in the engine pod or can it be below in the fuse?
I am imagining a 60" fuse and 80" wing or maybe 80" & 120"????
.....hollowing out the foam for the interior.... walling it in thin ply to mount hardware....??? routing control cables under balsa skin.....
I have access to some 2.5" blue high density foam... and a few 25cc (i guess) engines from commercial landscaping blowers. I am thinking about carving a Seaplane ala the 1.20 Mariner. Carving wings with a yardstick spar, sheeting in balsa with wing floats.
I plan on gluing three pieces of foam together, carving the sea hull with a step on it, adding spray rails when sheeting in balsa, and i think glassing for waterproofing and toughness.
The engine pod above the wing (i can go to 10' wing span here!!! i wanna make her huge, if you hadn't guessed by now.) will require some thought......plywood sandwiching the foam???
So, there is my plan, i need ideas from yous guys.
I have a ton o' questions...
Does the fuel tank haveta be in the engine pod or can it be below in the fuse?
I am imagining a 60" fuse and 80" wing or maybe 80" & 120"????
.....hollowing out the foam for the interior.... walling it in thin ply to mount hardware....??? routing control cables under balsa skin.....
#3
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
Oay, one small stumbling block outta my way. I thought a gasser would have enough umph to suck fuel 12" up.
So what do you think of my idea Minn?
any ideas how to mount the engine in a somewhat earodynamical pod of sorts?
any advice? foam a good medium? How do i glass the bottom?
the idea is to be lightweight (blue foam), strong & durable (blue foam) ,stable in the air (flat bottom/semi dehi trainer style) and a one off cool project .
Never flown offa H20.... cant be so hard, right?
$599.- for the mariner 120???? no way, this will be in the $100.- range.
So what do you think of my idea Minn?
any ideas how to mount the engine in a somewhat earodynamical pod of sorts?
any advice? foam a good medium? How do i glass the bottom?
the idea is to be lightweight (blue foam), strong & durable (blue foam) ,stable in the air (flat bottom/semi dehi trainer style) and a one off cool project .
Never flown offa H20.... cant be so hard, right?
$599.- for the mariner 120???? no way, this will be in the $100.- range.
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
Today iam starting with the engine, i will post pictures as i go.
I have to take a lot of the unnecessary stuff off of the engine, see how i am gonna adapt the crank to recieve the prop.
Starting at the engine, figuring out the prop pitch & diameter will be first to see what kinda craft she will pull.
From there, the pod construction will begin----More Dow HGigh Density blue foam, wooden dowels inside for structural support and glassing the whole thing seems logical, no?
I have to take a lot of the unnecessary stuff off of the engine, see how i am gonna adapt the crank to recieve the prop.
Starting at the engine, figuring out the prop pitch & diameter will be first to see what kinda craft she will pull.
From there, the pod construction will begin----More Dow HGigh Density blue foam, wooden dowels inside for structural support and glassing the whole thing seems logical, no?
#8
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
For your engines, go to
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_92/tt.htm
you will find all that is needed there
enjoy
blue foam is great
the skypup ultralight is built mostly out of it and it flew my 200 pounds around for 225 hours
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_92/tt.htm
you will find all that is needed there
enjoy
blue foam is great
the skypup ultralight is built mostly out of it and it flew my 200 pounds around for 225 hours
#9
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
Wow !!! been consumed reading about converting these engines !!
ok, here is what i got........21.2cc Echo commercial leaf blower engine. 7400 rpm, sounds good?
need help on the mounting of this thing i really want to keep the pull start, devise a mount around it.
I will post pictures here of motor before i start ripping into it. Right now i have a 20-10 prop ----I have to get a longer shaft/nut that holds flywheel on. its a little too short when mounting the prop, only 2 threads showing, and no thrust washers on yet.
the prop i have is only to test the engine, after i have tested it, check the rpms, i will most undoubtedly re-prop to somewhere around a 16-8 or 18-8
ok, here is what i got........21.2cc Echo commercial leaf blower engine. 7400 rpm, sounds good?
need help on the mounting of this thing i really want to keep the pull start, devise a mount around it.
I will post pictures here of motor before i start ripping into it. Right now i have a 20-10 prop ----I have to get a longer shaft/nut that holds flywheel on. its a little too short when mounting the prop, only 2 threads showing, and no thrust washers on yet.
the prop i have is only to test the engine, after i have tested it, check the rpms, i will most undoubtedly re-prop to somewhere around a 16-8 or 18-8
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
Hi!
A 21cc gas engine will not cope with such a large prop (20x10)!
A 18x6 - 18x8 or 20x6 or even a 20x8 would be those I would try, preferably Menz or an APC prop which are the best props available giving best trust and performance.
As for your plans of making a blue-foam sea-plane ...I would not build it the way you described it by "carving " or sanding the shape of the fuselage and wings..and definitely not using just a yardstik for wingspar.
The way most people build with blue foam or....white foam, which is lighter..is by cutting the wings with a hot wire bow......this is really easy once you know how to do it.
The fuselage could be shaped with a hand saw or a band saw shaping with hand-files...a very laborious work...and dusty too.
Even a fuselage could be cut using a hot bow...R/C Aircombat guys do it frequently to speed up their building of WW 2 fighters.
Foam wings are most of the time covered by balsa , thin plywood or abbachi sheets which is then covered in either glass fiber (25g) and Epoxy (24 hour mold making epoxy ..not the glue variety which is too soft) or polyester resin. Even a plastic film (Oracover or Oratex) covering could be use if utmost lightness is the goal.
I would suggest that you learned more about those specific techniques before you began your big sea-plane project.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden
A 21cc gas engine will not cope with such a large prop (20x10)!
A 18x6 - 18x8 or 20x6 or even a 20x8 would be those I would try, preferably Menz or an APC prop which are the best props available giving best trust and performance.
As for your plans of making a blue-foam sea-plane ...I would not build it the way you described it by "carving " or sanding the shape of the fuselage and wings..and definitely not using just a yardstik for wingspar.
The way most people build with blue foam or....white foam, which is lighter..is by cutting the wings with a hot wire bow......this is really easy once you know how to do it.
The fuselage could be shaped with a hand saw or a band saw shaping with hand-files...a very laborious work...and dusty too.
Even a fuselage could be cut using a hot bow...R/C Aircombat guys do it frequently to speed up their building of WW 2 fighters.
Foam wings are most of the time covered by balsa , thin plywood or abbachi sheets which is then covered in either glass fiber (25g) and Epoxy (24 hour mold making epoxy ..not the glue variety which is too soft) or polyester resin. Even a plastic film (Oracover or Oratex) covering could be use if utmost lightness is the goal.
I would suggest that you learned more about those specific techniques before you began your big sea-plane project.
Regards!
Jan K
Sweden
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
Hey Jaka-----thanks for your constructive input.....NOT. Thanks for suggesting that i learn more. Appreciate it. You've been so helpful. NOT.
Yes. My new hotbow setup is going to be used to cut. Yes, it is going to be sheeted in balsa.
Yes, I know what i am doing.
Ok, now onward.
Ran the engine up last night (coped just fine with a 20 x 10).
Surprised even me......would not idle, would not run unless choke was almost all the way closed. High and low needles ran through full travel, wouldn't even idle when both needles backed out almost all the way. I have another carb to swap today. This one has a larger bore- still Echo .. I think it is from a 25cc maybe??
But I did get it to hold steady at full throttle with the choke 3/4 way closed.
Anyway, here's what i got......... WFO (<---wide friggen open) = 7800 rpm on my hobbico tach.
Yes, thats 7800RPM... with a 20" prop. I guess a 21cc gas engine will cope with such a large prop. Please don't berate me for choosing a large 20" prop to bench test my engine.
The Echo webpage specs out the PB2100 engine at 7400 RPM --- so i dunno if my #'s are accurate. but dang if it didn't say 7800!!!!!
I am gonna swap carbs today, see what that does, i am sure it will at least idle. Next is a velocity stack to feed clean air.
I will whip out the digital cam and snap some pictures tonight.
Yes. My new hotbow setup is going to be used to cut. Yes, it is going to be sheeted in balsa.
Yes, I know what i am doing.
Ok, now onward.
Ran the engine up last night (coped just fine with a 20 x 10).
Surprised even me......would not idle, would not run unless choke was almost all the way closed. High and low needles ran through full travel, wouldn't even idle when both needles backed out almost all the way. I have another carb to swap today. This one has a larger bore- still Echo .. I think it is from a 25cc maybe??
But I did get it to hold steady at full throttle with the choke 3/4 way closed.
Anyway, here's what i got......... WFO (<---wide friggen open) = 7800 rpm on my hobbico tach.
Yes, thats 7800RPM... with a 20" prop. I guess a 21cc gas engine will cope with such a large prop. Please don't berate me for choosing a large 20" prop to bench test my engine.
The Echo webpage specs out the PB2100 engine at 7400 RPM --- so i dunno if my #'s are accurate. but dang if it didn't say 7800!!!!!
I am gonna swap carbs today, see what that does, i am sure it will at least idle. Next is a velocity stack to feed clean air.
I will whip out the digital cam and snap some pictures tonight.
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
8800 rpm with the 20x10 prop.
Checked it a thousand times, from the front, from the back.
8800 rpm.
not bad, eh?
carb was from a stihl. chainsaw i believe.
larger bore in the throat.
gonna work on the pod.
Checked it a thousand times, from the front, from the back.
8800 rpm.
not bad, eh?
carb was from a stihl. chainsaw i believe.
larger bore in the throat.
gonna work on the pod.
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
Looks interesting. Just one comment about the location of the fuel tank. Make sure the area is WELL fuel proofed. Gasoline will eat blue foam very quickly.
Ross
Ross
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
the numbers speak for themselves.
1680 idle
avg 9000-10000 rpm WFO
12390 rpm when leaned up a bit.
premium 97 octane, added "104+ Octane Boost"
full synthetic 2 cycle mixed 25:1
Friggen thing scares me.
Sounds like a Weedwacker with a Cessna chasing it.
Oh, by the way, pls dont knock my messy crowded shed/workshop
1680 idle
avg 9000-10000 rpm WFO
12390 rpm when leaned up a bit.
premium 97 octane, added "104+ Octane Boost"
full synthetic 2 cycle mixed 25:1
Friggen thing scares me.
Sounds like a Weedwacker with a Cessna chasing it.
Oh, by the way, pls dont knock my messy crowded shed/workshop
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
yes that is the stock muffler.
yes that is a rubber band holding the air cleaner housing together (choke has been removed & engine will not run correctly without cover - too much distrurbed air - velocity stack is coming)
yes this is a blast
yes that is a rubber band holding the air cleaner housing together (choke has been removed & engine will not run correctly without cover - too much distrurbed air - velocity stack is coming)
yes this is a blast
#18
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
Wow! 8800 on a 20x10 MAS. Thats' a bit stronger than a MOKI 2.10 or a DA 50. And your little 21cc Echo is only a 1.20. You are truely a miracle worker!
And then you got 12390 out of it without throwing the rod? 12390 rpm on a 20x10 MAS would require 21.7 horsepower and generate 69.5 pounds of thrust at a theoretical speed of 117 mph.
You wouldn't be having a little fun with us would you?
Jim
And then you got 12390 out of it without throwing the rod? 12390 rpm on a 20x10 MAS would require 21.7 horsepower and generate 69.5 pounds of thrust at a theoretical speed of 117 mph.
You wouldn't be having a little fun with us would you?
Jim
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RE: Had to post this for yous water guys too...
In all seriousity........
I know the specs on this motor is 7400-7800 rpm max.
I am suspicious too.
I don't know what is correct.
But i do know this:
With a brand new tach with brand new batteries i measured above 10,000rpm consistently, like fifty times over the course of an hour, on a bone stock Echo 21cc swinging a 20 x 10 MAS.
Period.
I know the specs on this motor is 7400-7800 rpm max.
I am suspicious too.
I don't know what is correct.
But i do know this:
With a brand new tach with brand new batteries i measured above 10,000rpm consistently, like fifty times over the course of an hour, on a bone stock Echo 21cc swinging a 20 x 10 MAS.
Period.