Will a 40 provide the power needed to fly a North Star? Balsa USA lists 40 to 46 for the engine range but I just read a review that says bigger is better. I have an Enya 40 that I would like to use in it - suggestions please.

If it's a good Ball bearing 40 it would be ok, not great, but ok.

Then again, you may find it's all you need.

But if you're just looking for a home for your 40, I'd pick another kit. But again, that's just how I see it.

A friend has one with a Thunder Tiger .42GP in it. I tested it for him and it just barely made it. We never flew it off the water.

One of the problems is they build tail heavy so you will have to add weight to the nose. This compounds the problem of the smaller engine-having to carry extra weight.

We are getting to start an Arrow and I am thinking of suggesting to him to move the firewall an inch forward, especially since we usually put the throttle servo in the engine pod.

I have a .47 GMS in my Northstar and a friend has a .45 Supertigre in his. Mine is quicker than his, but I built mine lighter. I think the key to building this plane is build it as light as possible. Mine weighs about 5 lbs and a good strong .40 such as your Enya would fly it ok.

I had an OS la 46 in mine, it flew OK, but htat's at full throttle.

I have recently changed it over in favour of my MDS 48. Shoudl be beter with this.

Also, try to get teh engine as far forward as possible on the engine mount. this will help with balancing.

One of the guys I fly with has an Irvine in the displacement range of about .52 if I have that correct. With a change in muffler from stock, it goes like hell. Almost wiped out the last two times he flew. It got a little ahead of him.

Bob

I have to agree with most of the others replying here. If your Enya is one of the performance models maybe OK but if it is a sport 40 I would move on to somethig else. The Enyas I have used are not all that great for top end performance. You need big gonads to get off the water especially if the plane is a bit heavy. This also brings up the point that Enyas are fairly heavy so that means you will have to add more nose weight. Be sure it balances properly no matter how much weight it takes in the nose. Also consider a tuned pipe or a Nelson pipe to help with the top end.
I use a GMS 47 with the performance pipe and have no trouble getting off the water. I hear a Webra 50 has the best power to weight ratio of any of the engines out there so if you can swing it I would go for that.
Peter

I have a 53 irvine on my northstar. I put a mac one peice pipe on it and am turning a APC 10 x 8 using 10% Omega. Nice combo.

It flew with a GMS 47 and the Mac pipe as well, just not as fast.

The fellow who owns the Northstar said that with the new muffler/pipe he gained 1500 RPM. The thing sounds as if it has a ducted fan in it.

Bob

Now, lets ask another question:

I have heard (with all deltas & rear moutned engines), that you should:
-balance with a full tank
-move teh CG back to get it more stable, forward to get more 'aerobatic'

Since the tank is in the engine nacelle, balacing it with a full tank would be the 'worst case senario' as this creates a tail heavy plane with a full tank.

Moving the CG back.. Dunno about this, but I have heard others do this, to tame teh wild beast..

Any truth to this? thoughts? comments?

GG is best kept at designers position unless you are experimenting, but pilot beware.
The Northstar I've had contact with had a remote fuel tank with a pump so as to better balance the aircraft.

CG back, less stable. CG forward more stable and more run needed to take off. Like I said previously, try to keep it at designers preference.

I had a Fox 45 BB in mine. It was very fast and flew great off the water. I lost an elevator connection and the plane went in. I have never given up on building another one, just havent found one yet. I have seen a few Fiberglass versions on the market and have never figured where they came from. CG is a problem and needs lost of lead in the nose if you decide on a larger engine.


Pete

I balanced mine to the specs in the building manual. The balance point is set forward to compensate for a full tank. I agree with retransit, follow the manufacturer's recommendations, especiall for the first flight.

Check the picture I previously posted above. I went float flying today with that gentleman and his aircraft. The good news is he missed the dock and the boat, the bad news is the water was next while inverted. He said he previously was having some trouble with elevator authority.
That was, and I emphasize WAS, his fourth edition of that design. I got to see the guts after the fact and a lot of the aircraft was built with epoxy/glass sheet, including ribs, capstrips, sheeting. Some carbon fiber was also employed. Interesting construction.

An engine with a good power to weight ratio is what is needed for the North Star and Arrow
The K&B .65 sprotster is what I have on my Arrow, the engine only weighs 19 oz, and the plane balances on the rear CG with no lead in the nose, for full forward CG only 3oz. of lead shot is required in the nose. my North Star used to fly with a heavy .48 size engine, it was ok but it doesn’t even compare to the Arrow with the .65 combination.

SGG

Is the Arrow offered as a kit? I have the North Star. Love it. I came across this forum. First time i came across the arrow. Now thats nice!!

Any info would be great!

FlyBri

You can get the Arrow as an RCM plan it is number 1335. sells for around 15$ I have not herd anything about an Arrow Kit, however there is talk of an Arrow Arf. It is one easy plane to build, mine was built and flown while the Arrow issue of RCM was still on store shelves. There is a thread all about the Arrow on RC universe, here is the link.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_15...tm.htm#1553735

SG

Hi there. I just thought I would give my 2 cents about this great plane, that is great for an experianced pilot. I have had 2 Northstars and soon to be a third with a D/F on it. The best thing I can tell you is to balance this bird RIGHT ON THE C/G from Laddie (the plans). Also as far as the engine goes I had the best results with a Tower 46 and a 10-8 Master Air Screw prop. My bird turned out at 5.5 lbs and really screams. I tried other combo's and that engine prop works best. I moved the servo bay as far forward as the height of the servos would let me and this greatly reduced the nose weight needed, I then added a fifth servo (dual aileron) Now I have flapperons.

There is a lot of different engines out there. The best thing is to build a strong and light plane. If you are not into really tweeking things and are not comfortable bashing then stick to the plans. More engine = more weight which means you need 4 times that ammount in the nose to balance. Remember an 11" prop is the max.

If you want HOTTTTTT and can afford it the very best 9thrust to weight and rpm) is a JETT.46.