Seamaster 40 ARF tips?
07-20-2004 | 07:37 PM
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From: Binghamton,
NY
Seamaster 40 ARF tips?
Having been bitten by the float fly bug I decided to try the sea master 40. This weekends Sunday rain dampened the regular field flying so I broke out the ARF to start assembly.
What I started with was the aileron assembly per instructions. The hinges provided were half the size of a typical SIG easy hinge. Having some SIG hinges on hand those were substituted. Hope that wasn't a bad thing, bigger is better right? Next was the motor pod which called for 2) 4 x 35mm screws to be installed to reinforce the firewall with the vertical motor pod mount. Both heads broke off 1/8 inch from completion. The pre drilled pilot holes likely were not drilled sufficiently deep enough. I substituted my own screws in place and reinforced the firewall with triangle stock and epoxy. The firewall also got a thinned coat of epoxy all the way around.
That is where I stopped for now but looking ahead I see the motor pod is held in with 1 screw. Call me skeptical but should I trust the provided hardware to this task? Would a permanent gluing be in order? I am also wondering what finishing techniques could be used to finish off the motor pod nacelle and vertical post, i.e. paint, Ultra coat, glass etc. Any other insight and or tips for completion would be welcome. Hope to get this bird flying before the end of the season.
What I started with was the aileron assembly per instructions. The hinges provided were half the size of a typical SIG easy hinge. Having some SIG hinges on hand those were substituted. Hope that wasn't a bad thing, bigger is better right? Next was the motor pod which called for 2) 4 x 35mm screws to be installed to reinforce the firewall with the vertical motor pod mount. Both heads broke off 1/8 inch from completion. The pre drilled pilot holes likely were not drilled sufficiently deep enough. I substituted my own screws in place and reinforced the firewall with triangle stock and epoxy. The firewall also got a thinned coat of epoxy all the way around.
That is where I stopped for now but looking ahead I see the motor pod is held in with 1 screw. Call me skeptical but should I trust the provided hardware to this task? Would a permanent gluing be in order? I am also wondering what finishing techniques could be used to finish off the motor pod nacelle and vertical post, i.e. paint, Ultra coat, glass etc. Any other insight and or tips for completion would be welcome. Hope to get this bird flying before the end of the season.
07-21-2004 | 07:48 AM
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From: Cedar Park,
TX
RE: Seamaster 40 ARF tips?
That one screw works fine EXCEPT you should pre-drill it's pilot hole. There is really very little load on that screw. The engine thrust is basically straight ahead. Back in the '80s, I built a Seamaster 40 from a kit and the post for the engine was epoxied in. I consider the one-screw approach to be a real improvement. Mounting the throttle servo up in the engine pod with the groove for the wire is another great improvement. I built the ARF when it first came out and it has been improved in several small ways.
The nose cone needs better mounting. You should probably re-inforce it with fiberglass on the inside where the screws go. I lost mine in a spectacular cartwheel that was the result of trying to take off in water that was way too rough, and it took a YEAR to get a replacement. The one from Fiberglass Specialties is for the old kit version and won't fit the arf.
Good luck, flying off the water is great fun.
The nose cone needs better mounting. You should probably re-inforce it with fiberglass on the inside where the screws go. I lost mine in a spectacular cartwheel that was the result of trying to take off in water that was way too rough, and it took a YEAR to get a replacement. The one from Fiberglass Specialties is for the old kit version and won't fit the arf.
Good luck, flying off the water is great fun.
