littlera

greggK,

Further see post 256 for the report on the flaps after the test flights.

littlera

MaxAdventure

My Feedback: (7)

"should " do it? it's all about if you want to do it. On my Unionville 98" I reworked the ailerons and flaps to be scale, including the mixing. That was the fun part for me. I do find them to certainly have an effect and also found my roll control diminished. I ended up pulling out the exact scale mixing and not drooping the flaperons so much so I was more comfortable. I've had enough time on the plane now I think it would be fine with the scale mix provided I only flew it in a scale manner. I of course don't, so it's a bit of a compromise. I'm very pleased with the scale wing motion and very glad I put the effort forth.

littlera

I too was concerned about loss of aileron effectivness with the flaps down, and even worse was concerned that I could cause a tip stall should I need a heavier than normal aileron input during approach, with disasterous results. At least in my mind I have guarded against this possibility by dialing quite a bit of aileron differential. With the ailerons drooped 20 degrees, aileron input gives very little down aileron, with a corresponding larger amount of up aileron on the opposite side. I think the aileron differential is about 50% if I remember correctly. This seems to work out very well during normal flight when the ailerons and flaps are not dropped.

littlera

artash

My Feedback: (5)

I found out last week that KMP is bringing back the Dehavillan Beaver sometime in late April. It will be the yellow/green configuration, landing gear, and wings that are covered in fabric. They already have a waiting list for it. Can contact Gus on their website who is located in Oregon.

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

That's a shame it will be the green/yellow scheme again. I didn't buy it because of that, was hoping for the white/yellow scheme to come back. Sometimes less is more... oh well

littlera

vasek,

I had the opportunity to spend a little time in Prague about four years ago while on tour of Eastern Europe. You really do live in a beautiful city and country. The food was good, the beer some of the best anywhere, and everyone was friendly to us.

cheers,

littlera

flytreetimes

Hi maxadventure: I am using a 6 channel radio to fly mine, so no mixes avialble, that I can find to add flaperons in with the flaps. I can set the ailerons down 10% with the flap switch, but have not had the courage to attempt it yet!!
My 96" Turbo Beaver now has a total of 18 flights, the last 10, using half flap for landings. That makes a world of difference in my confidence in landings. Full flaps will be attempted this spring, hopefully with a pros guidance the first times.
My last flight, last September, was in winds of 20mph, straight across the runway, did my first slideslip (forced-hehe), but other than the Beaver not wanting to settle for touchdown, was really uneventful. When I tried to taxi back, the wind blew the tail up, plane nosed over, so had to be pushed back.
I watched your last video, your TB just looks so graceful in the air!! I have not managed a video as yet, never seems to be anyone around with the equipment!
Are you still running the big Turnigy motor for 3000 watts? I'm running my Scorpion 4025-12 at 1420 watts for now, but have acquired a couple of more props for testing in spring. I run only runone battery, so have to watch the total amp draw to ensure flight times.

aviateur2

Flytreetimes, if you go to page 11 post 271, you will see my 6 feet beaver. the sheme is like the one in aviation museum, here in canada and was the first one of the series of beaver design by Fred H Buller that stand for c-f FHB.
I've tried the flap on it and it's amasing how slow you can land and how many feet you take for taking off and land with them deployed. At about 200 ft high with flap on , pushing it down a bit you are going down may be 45 degree but you wont take any speed and when about 4-5 feet from ground you just pull up to flare and then 10 to 12 feet of roll and it's stop..

Of courswe it's impressive the first time but it's the way to work with flap.. It's to land in a small place.

Now I'm doing the 144" (1/4 scale kit) from Unionville hobby the same distributor as my 6 feet. will show pic later may be an other forum to treat it

so good luck with your's they are great machine
Pierre

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

Yea, I'm lucky in that way. I just wish the RC stuff was less expensive here. Heck, one can even buy cheaper in the US the RC stuff that's made over here!

cheers,
V.

littlera

Wow, I was hoping the R/C stuff might be a bargain there, and was hoping to get an engine or two the next time I visit. Everyone respects the workmanship on the engines in the Czech Republic - some really nice stuff from there.

The company that I retired from moved a factory from near Manchester, England to Czech Republic. We got at least as good workmanship at lower cost.

I believe the view you attached is where the cool astronomical clock is housed. It is of course 600 years old, and I couldn't begin to figure out how it works or exactly what it can tell.

Regards,

littlera

MaxAdventure

My Feedback: (7)

Thank you. Yes, I still have the TGY AerodriveXp 160 SK Series 63-64 230Kv for power although I replaced the Turnigy ESC with a CC HV80 ice, which told me I'm hitting about 3500 watts at peak (fresh charge on a vertical climb out). I ended up pinning the prop to keep it from spinning, it's been working well but I have to refit the spinner and I have figured that out yet. Notice I have windows and exhaust pipes now? I used an aluminum shower rod as a source of thin-walled aluminum to form the exhaust.

I wish the video came out better, my videographer was zoomed in when I started the demo vertical climb and it's hard to see exactly what I'm doing, that's alright - I really appreciate his help and he's worth every penny! He also piloted my sky diver I dropped from the Beaver that same day - unfortunately the lines tangled and we had to have a funeral for him. I have a new idea on the drop so we'll try again soon.

I look forward to some CA shows this coming season and see all your beavers lined up ready to go! Hopefully you can get some video of yours as well!

As a off topic side note, as soon as I finish the construction of my floats for the beaver, I'll clear the board and start the PBY. I'm still planning on using the Scorpion motors you recommended all those months ago, although I haven't picked them up yet.

flytreetimes

Hi aviatuer2/ Maxadventure: aviatuer2: Very nice Beaver. I had an accident with my Turbo Beaver on its 5th flight, took approx 100 hrs to repair. I flew it into the only huge elm tree in the area - doh!!!
The plane has been tested on full flaps, just not with me at the controls, my fellow flyer Rob (our local expert), said it handled fine with some power on. It did slow way down too! Looking forward to trying it out when the weather co-operates!!
Maxadventure: Wow, twice the power of mine +!! It does go straight up. It also appears to slow very nicely for landing. I have every intention of getting some video of this plane, along with a new Twin Otter and a Hawker Hurricane (I built the last two this winter).
I am about to start on a Dehavilland Buffalo, 80". It will have a pair of Scorpion 4020-16's, on 6S, and be grossly overpowered!!!! A scale 13.5 x 8 x 3 puts out 1130watts per motor, I expect the plane to be 10-12 lbs ( hoping the first).
What size props do you intend for the PBY, a 16/10/3 MAS makes 1420 watts and a 16/12/3 G-sonic pulled 1500 watts on batteries! just for your info on the 4020-16. All my testing has been done with the new Tz85 Amps ESC from Hobby City. At $33, its smoother than the Plush series, more adjustable and has shown no signs of getting even warm!
Good luck on your PBY. flytreetimes

Otter Guy

I have a second hand unionville 6' beav, looks reasonable, flies like **** so far. came with an OS61 with a pitts muffler and floats. i did a brief check before i tried to fly it, replaced some of the hardware that had been robbed, set up my radio with flaps and flaperon mix, and gave it a go! didn't go. tried zero flap, maybe should have waited for a calmer day also, but id done it with other models. got out of the water, dropped a wing, then the other, then the left again and cartwheeled, broke the right wing at the strut and pulled the front mount out of the left float, worst part was i had no boat! just had to wait for the wind to do its thing and hope it didn't sink.
so, got it home, took it apart, found a ton of lead in the nose, and the battery mounted in the rear, odd. and the foam had all absorbed a ton of water so i had to get it all out too. so, i rebalanced it after i repaired the wing and the float, made new struts out of aerofoiled aluminum after finding a brass bracket cracked nicely, and took it out in the snow! thought id try takeoff with half flap, which helped, but the damn thing was either mega nose heavy, or the incidence is way out to lunch, or the elevator linkage shrank in the cold, because i had to hold in half up elevator to keep it trimmed, even at full nose up trim. i couldn't even give it a proper shakedown with stalls and what not, it was all i could do to get it back in one piece. becoming clear why i got it for half what the equipment in it is worth. i can't add alot to the flaperon discussion, other than with full flaps it became controllable. surprisingly, the ailerons where extremely responsive. i managed to get it down alright, hopefully i can get it sorted out, it would be nice to have it going! i moved the battery back to the original location, so next time it warms up a bit hopefully i can try it again, and im curious to note the change in elevator position in the cold.

aviateur2

Otter guy, Sorry for you to have bad experience with your beaver but glad for you for being able to repear it. I got the same as you and the engines is a evolution .52 2 stroke with a 12X6 3 blades master airscrews and the mix is perfect for me. I take off with full trotle and in the air it ran smooth with 1/4 - 1/3 trottle to have it flying scale like..
I didn't try mine yet on float but they are all done. Just wating summer and a good boat in case!!! but I'm sure it will go like the real one.

On my first flight or second I crashed it because the 3 blade evolution are not enought solid for the .52 It breakj appart in the air and I stall it about 20 feet from ground and fall strait out on the nose and break the firewall but the repair was not that much, but right now with this set-up it's a real good plane to fly like I like to fly. let's say like a "pépère" Slow and high

bye bye and ALP
Pierre

aviateur2

Here is my 6 feet beaver on wheel and float

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

You can still get a bargain for the RC stuff as you will leave the country so you will be reimbursed 20% at the airport (harmonized EU sale tax). You must specify you are a foreigner when buying and the store will give you a special form to fill. You then show that form at the airport when leaving EU and get the tax paid back in cash ( In a currency you wish)

littlera

vasek,

I had not considered the old VAT rebate trick. I have done this before, but it is usually not worth it unless you spend quite a bit. Usually, you do as you said; get the form, fill it out and turn it in at the airport. Then, the rebate arrives at my home in the local currency where I bought the stuff. If I want to convert this to USD, the banks charge about USD 25 for this serfvice. This usually eats most of the rebate!

I might be able to do it with a nice Roto Motor 35fs or 85fs or both. I love the look of these engines, and I hear they are real good. I like the thought of gasoline 4 stroke. Saito has some, but the Roto engines seem to be more bang for the buck.

Thanks,

littlera

aviateur2

Hi every body this is only to inform you that my 12 feet Beaver is started for building it.

For those who are intersted in seeing the progression and modifications I will do, you can go to the bilingual web site on the address below: (sorry for the poor english I have) but I do my best.....

https://sites.google.com/site/dhc2beaver144pouces/

The english version are in sub menu and of cours the site is not finished yet cause the plane is not finish. I will update from time to time as the model will progress.

Hope you will enjoy and give feed back by the "me contacter" button in the menu.

Sincerly aviateur2

Navy0968

Here are a few photos of the E-Flite Beaver / U6-A conversion I recently completed. The airframe was completely sheeted with 1/64" lite ply and recovered with Ultracote. A scale cowl, doors, nav/ldg lights, cockpits, etc was added.

artash

My Feedback: (5)

You did a real nice job on it. It shows the time and detail to full scale. Good luck with your first flight....

aviateur2

Yeap realy nice job ou did. I was very impress by the first photo but I realize that it was the real one(LOL) but the other photos are very look like. hope you will have lot of fun with it

aviateur2

Navy0968

Thanks guys.

panioul

I want also to show you my Beaver. I just got it slightly used and put a zenoah 38 inside! The wingspan is 2,6m and I have already bought the floats that will replace the wheels.

aviateur2

HI every one, I have a problem with my 6 feet beaver from unionville hobby supply. As long as the engine is running, this is a smooth, easy flying plane but if the engine quit, no time to do nothing, it roll on a left bank and impossible to recover to make it glide and every time goes on a crash. does anybody has a solution to solve the problem or have experience the same problem.

Any suggerstions will be greatly appreciated.

alex5

If it banks to the left while not powered,it would suggest that your plane might be over weight,and,out of trim, for un-powered flight,and your engine was simply pulling it out of that condition.
so,the first thing to check is your side to side balance(is it radially balanced?)then check for a warped wing(one side not symmetrical like the other)and look for a minor twist in the wing from tip to root.It takes very little to alter its flight characteristics when not under power.One of my buds,had that problem with a cub,and it did just what yours did.Be sure to have your cg under the main spar,or forward of that.Good luck,as it may be a combination of twist in a wing and cg.
Alex