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03-21-2003, 02:44 AM
#1
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Since this will be my first Float plane and I have assembled a Ultra Stick 60. I went to a friends house and cut some foam floats. I have a few questions that I was hoping that some of you could help me with.
1. Where would be a good location for the switch I will be just putting a wire out like I seen suggested here I just don't know where would be a good location. would it be OK if it came out on the left side under the wing??
2. Do I need to cover the floats with balsa and or what size fiberglass should I use??
3. I have heard some people use 1/16 lite ply is this required?
4. Is it OK to use Polyacrilic instead of resin? I heard it works was just wondering?
I am really looking forward to trying floats I think it will be a kick and appreciate any help that y'all can give me. Thanks in advance.
1. Where would be a good location for the switch I will be just putting a wire out like I seen suggested here I just don't know where would be a good location. would it be OK if it came out on the left side under the wing??
2. Do I need to cover the floats with balsa and or what size fiberglass should I use??
3. I have heard some people use 1/16 lite ply is this required?
4. Is it OK to use Polyacrilic instead of resin? I heard it works was just wondering?
I am really looking forward to trying floats I think it will be a kick and appreciate any help that y'all can give me. Thanks in advance.
03-21-2003, 03:56 AM
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Float questions
Hey AZ,
Congratulations on your first float plane. You made a good choice with the Ultra Stik. It is great on floats.
Putting the switch under the left wing is a good place. Any place where it will not get water spray from the prop or floats is a good location.
I would sugest you do not try flying bare foam floats on a .60 sized aircraft. One rough landing and it will be all over for both the floats and the plane.
At the very least, add some sort of structure to the float cores. It can be as simple as a plywood "backbone", or they can be completly covered.
Our float kits are made from a foam core which is covered with 1/32" plywood on the top and bottom surfaces. They have 1/8" lite plywood sides.
I know this sounds heavy, but all up finished weight is just over 1.5 lbs. Very respectable.
Do not get fiberglass resin anywhere near the foam. It will disolve it in to a little plastic puddle. You can use Epoxy resin and cloth with no problem. 4-6 oz cloth is a good wieght.
Congratulations on your first float plane. You made a good choice with the Ultra Stik. It is great on floats.
Putting the switch under the left wing is a good place. Any place where it will not get water spray from the prop or floats is a good location.
I would sugest you do not try flying bare foam floats on a .60 sized aircraft. One rough landing and it will be all over for both the floats and the plane.
At the very least, add some sort of structure to the float cores. It can be as simple as a plywood "backbone", or they can be completly covered.
Our float kits are made from a foam core which is covered with 1/32" plywood on the top and bottom surfaces. They have 1/8" lite plywood sides.
I know this sounds heavy, but all up finished weight is just over 1.5 lbs. Very respectable.
Do not get fiberglass resin anywhere near the foam. It will disolve it in to a little plastic puddle. You can use Epoxy resin and cloth with no problem. 4-6 oz cloth is a good wieght.
03-21-2003, 01:35 PM
#3
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Ditto what Climate said.
How you cover your floats depends on how long you want them to last.
Chuck Cunningham has said that you can use uncovered foam floats, as long as they have a rigid "backbone" to absorb the loads. His next more involved covering material is packaging tape.
Obviously a naked, or tape-covered float is going to get dented and bruised when you taxi onto the bank or even in transit.
I sheet my foam floats using contact cement and 1/16 balsa. I use 1/16 ply for about 3" in front of the step, primatily because this area bears all the load while the plane is in transit or at high speed in contact with the water. With wood-covered floats, a backbone is not necessary, but you still have to install hard-points that go pretty deep into the foam to distribute the loads from the landing gear struts. I cover them with any of the popular film coverings, being sure to work from the bottom rear to the top front so the covering is shingled in a way that the water won't be able to get under the edge an peel it off.
I have learned that wood-covered floats ahould be additionally waterproofed before covering them with film..No matter what, water gets under the film, and balsa or lite-ply will rot in about 2 weeks. Fiberglassed and painted floats would be the most durable of all.
How you cover your floats depends on how long you want them to last.
Chuck Cunningham has said that you can use uncovered foam floats, as long as they have a rigid "backbone" to absorb the loads. His next more involved covering material is packaging tape.
Obviously a naked, or tape-covered float is going to get dented and bruised when you taxi onto the bank or even in transit.
I sheet my foam floats using contact cement and 1/16 balsa. I use 1/16 ply for about 3" in front of the step, primatily because this area bears all the load while the plane is in transit or at high speed in contact with the water. With wood-covered floats, a backbone is not necessary, but you still have to install hard-points that go pretty deep into the foam to distribute the loads from the landing gear struts. I cover them with any of the popular film coverings, being sure to work from the bottom rear to the top front so the covering is shingled in a way that the water won't be able to get under the edge an peel it off.
I have learned that wood-covered floats ahould be additionally waterproofed before covering them with film..No matter what, water gets under the film, and balsa or lite-ply will rot in about 2 weeks. Fiberglassed and painted floats would be the most durable of all.
03-21-2003, 05:08 PM
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One more quick question
First off thanks for the quick responses. Keep Them coming. I really enjoy all the ideas that people have. One more question. Oh I forgot to mention that there will be a 1/4" ply runner that is on top for strength and a hard mounting point.
Where do you mount the charge plug?
Again thanks for the responces
Mark
Where do you mount the charge plug?
Again thanks for the responces
Mark
03-21-2003, 07:18 PM
#5
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Assumng you take the wing off between flying sessions (recommended) you can just let hte charge jack dangle inside the fuselage. If you want to install it permanently, you can use one of those (ernst, I think) combination switch, charge jacl mounts with the snap-in cover to stop the splashies from getting in.
Definitely mount the switch internally with a pushrod through a snug hole to activate it.
I'll probably start a fight with this one, but set the switch with IN=OFF, OUT=ON. This is basically so that if the plane gets bumped in transit, it won't drain the batteries before you get to the flying site.
Definitely mount the switch internally with a pushrod through a snug hole to activate it.
I'll probably start a fight with this one, but set the switch with IN=OFF, OUT=ON. This is basically so that if the plane gets bumped in transit, it won't drain the batteries before you get to the flying site.
