New to Jets but not new to tools.

I am looking at the BVM wheels and would like to hear any suggestions on drilling thru the wheel/tire combo without missing the hole on the other side. I will use a drill press and a level surface. its a really tiny drill and hard rubber tires.

sure appreciate the input.

I've had a lot better luck with a T-pin. I heat it slightly before inserting it straight through. I find this to be a lot quicker and easier than using the drilling.

Hope this helps.

Adil

As long as a drill press is used, I've never had a problem in "missing" the other side. Any time I've seen anyone with such problems, they've been drilling by hand, and a switch to the drill press fixes everything.

I second both methods, but the drill press I find easier.

I've only used a hand drill and it worked great, I just took my time. HTH

joe

Thanks to all for the quick response. i am sitting here at work killing time and wanted to get an answer to this question (1st round trip cancelled, nothing to do but catch up on email stuff). i like the hot pin technique. maybe i'll drill after the hot pin.


since you guys are so helpful, how about another question.

when cutting CF/FG/Kevlar with a 409 wheel, do you guys lightly "score" the long cuts (like the nose gear door) 1st then do a series of smaller "plunge" cuts or do you just do plunge cuts or do you try to just get the 1st cut started then just move it along the desired cut line? i've cut FG before with the plunge method, but the nose area has CF and Kevlar apparently i have to cut thru as well. i was thinking a series of plunges could leave you with some unevenness in the cuts. i know, i'm thinking about this too much but i really don't like it when i do something, it turns out sloppy and THEN i learn a better way from someone.

thanks

I just align the wheel, push it down to cut through, then drag it along the desired line. As long as the original line-up is done carefully, this gives me nice clean cuts.

I also cover the area with 2" wide masking tape first, then mark the cut-lines on that. This gives some basic protection to the fibreglass in case the chuck of the (Dremel / Minicraft / whatever) rubs against the glasswork because I'm focusing intently on the cutting disk instead of the chuck.

When cutting out a door where I need to use the part I am cutting out, I like to do the following, and it is not as hard as it sounds.

Break about 1/32" off the end of a #11 xacto blade, then use the small square edge you just created to scrape your way through. Use a straight edge to guide it. You can go through even Kevlar fairly quickly, and you are left with a clean, straight and narrow cut. You can also make panel lines in fiberglass with this tool, or clean up the molded in panel lines on a kit.

Steven

For the wheels, I use the pin technique. I use heavy duty T pins and actually heat them up unit they are red hot. Hold them with pliers, or course, and quickly push it through. If you miss the hole on the other side (doesn't happen often to me), just heat it up and do it again. The pin actually boils and vulcanizes the rubber into a neat, clean hole that the PIA BVM wheel screw goes right through. An additional benefit is that the T pin won't screw up the threads if it happens to touch them on the way through the hole.

For cutouts, if the panel to be cutout is scrap, or its on a "non-critical" opening like a Kingcat nose wheel door, I use Gordon's method. If its a opening that is more critical, like a hatch or gear door on a scale bird where the cutout is the hatch/door, then I start the cut using the method Steve described. The only difference is that on long, straight cuts, after I've scored it with the #11 blade a few times, I start cutting it with a Zona saw that I've removed the spine from. This method leaves nice straight cuts with minimal gap too, and it a bit faster than the #11 blade by itself.

Bob

For tires I use the drill bit in a drill press, but I don't turn it on. I found that the bit has more of a tendency to wander as it passes through the different densities of rubber if it is turning, if it is not turning it pushes through much straighter and just as easily as it if it were. The bit is less likely to cut into the threads on the rim if it is not running too.
Push through from the threaded side towards the unthreaded side.

It works for me, but your mileage may vary.

I prefer the drill press method also but only drill 1/2 way through the tire. flip it over and drill the other 1/2. i've found it helps keep the bit from wandering.

How about if BVM charged $65 rather than $60 and take care of all that crap! [:@]

Five dollars wouldn't even cover the cost of Dodgen's health insurance for the time he would spend putting screws in a tire.

Given that most of the tires only cost about $10, I'll definitely consider replacing a set of tires for you for $65

Funniest post of the year nominee.

Exactly.

On the screws, to keep them from backing out, put thread lock on the thread side and a drop of ca on the flat head screw side. Like above, mileage may vary, but I never had one come back out after learning that trick, I think from Kevin W but not sure.

I use the thin dremel cutoff wheels for the doors, prevents a wide gap. On the hinge side the robart cutoff wheel is the right width to give a gap wide enough to keep it from catching when opening. If you dont use thread lock they will back out.

Missed you yesterday Tom! Burned several gallons of fuel, weather was Primo till Beer thirty, and after that it didn't matter anyway.

wow guys!!! thanks for all the different techniques. its always easier to try what has already worked for others than just try what you think may work.

and now, for my reduced rest overnight....yeah.