how strong are these vxl gearbox's? more to the point has
anyone had one fail? i am running 4s, a mamba esc and the
vxl motor and the power is just ridiculous. it handles it well.
you can nail the throttle and it either explodes tyres or diggs trenches
in the grass. even on concrete i can nail the throttle and it just spins
the wheels.

has anyone blown up the tranny or running huge power through one?
i would be interested to see what they can take. bulletproof!

monster.

i blow metal diff gears on 3s

Yep it's usually the internal diff gears (planetary and sun gears) and the top gear roll pin can shear. That's usually about it besides the yokes and other external driveline parts.

i pop off and shred off my driveshafts from where they attach. get cvd's....im shredding driveshafts on a 8 cell 5000mah nimh......i cant even imagine a 4s lipo? would that be any fun? seems like too much power?

If you're snapping them on an 8cell NIMH, you're doing something wrong (IE: slipper clutch set too tight or landing with throttle still applied).

I've been running mine on 2s and a 3s lipo every 3rd run for 7 months on 10 year old drive shafts and have never had a problem. My Rustler was a pre XL-1 model that had an MSC and somehow in all the upgrades I did I overlooked the original driveshafts. They're still going strong.

I do have new ones just in case.

the driveshafts are tuff and i can replace them as needed.
i like the sliders and besides the black plastic output yolks
its all good. i have one white output yolk one steel one and she's
ok. my only weak spots for now seem to be tyres and foams
popping out. i smashed the front hub holder thingo at low speed
but it was a mates rig earlier and has recieved a royal beating already.

i think if all is lubed she should be sweet. its a vxl bandit by the way with
a couple of things i had lying around.

since my first post i took it out again with what was left in the battery.
my friend who initially owned it was with me and watched and had a go
of the savage pig dog. he was, and i still am,still astonished at the power.

revo eater for life!

if anyone knows how to do the figures i am running 4s (14.8v)35c
, vxl (3500kv) motor geared 26/78 any idea of ballpark top speed?
im thinking it would whale on a 7700 cc motor with relative ease.[8D]
traxxas bandit stock type tyre size. im thinking 60+ easily

nimh seems to create heat sometimes the lipo doesnt. sounds strange
but i have made heaps of custom cell battery's but lipo just has it without
the heat and weight. more punch too..

BOOYA!

Am I the only one testing the VXL tranny properly then?

And yes, it fails pretty regularly running an XL motor on 4s. Usually the internals and roll pins. Also have to run with the slipper locked down or it slips and melts the spur.

And CVDs are NOT the answer. They will fail also. Had a set of the MIP shafts and they broke the pin in three pieces, sheared the stub axles and sheared the part that captures the little drum in the center. Totally wrecked. Best answer are the standard shafts matched with a pair of the steel yolks. You need flex in the drivetrain or it will simply snap with the torque of a big motor on HV.

I was twisting plastic half shafts on 2s, how can you say plastic drive shafts are stronger then metal?, i went thru 3-4 pairs! on 2s and 3s now i run CVD's and now theres less slack in the drive train and they don't eat away on any plastic parts. c'mon guys if you run 3s or 4s dont run stock plastic shafts thats a joke, i durability tested my CVD's time and time again From 40-80ft gaps and jumps, and 70mph Thats like dropping plastic shafts in a 1500hp viper because you want some flex so you dont break tranny parts lmfao! Sound like alot of you guys graduated from the South Harmon Institute of Technology

Maybe because I run the best part of double the power of what you run, and have found that it is the best setup going.

I sheared the MIPs at the point where the shaft meets the stub axle, they are just too weak. The CVDs are fine for 3s running with a short can motor, for certain. You go more than that and you will wreck them.

that little easy run, is as powerfull as my 5700 on 2s, and runs twice as hot lol you dont go cheap to get power CVD's for the win, lets see some cvd's getting broken with a 100$ easy run, my cell phone bill is twice that per month

LOLz OMG THAT IS SO TRUE. English mate, use it.

Because everyone knows that your 500w 5700 motor on 2s is going to be more powerful than the 1200w 3674 motor on 4s. You aware that the CMS range of Mamba max motors is built by the lowest bidder in bongo land for a (adjusted for Americans) nickel? And is actually a worse quality motor than the majority of the hobbywing range? Man they still use 380 rotors, that is crap.

At the end of the day, my Slash = faster that your Slash. Considerably.

metal cvd's i can see getting flogged out. i have spent $$hundreds$$ on metal
cvd's only to find they flog out easier than dogbones on other trucks

have you run a vxl on 4s in a bandit?
i reckon if you have any encyclopedia's get rid of them. i can see the add
"free set of encyclopedia's, owner knows everything"

I'd say they are extremely tough. I've yet to destroy my metal gears and yolks runnin a MM 6900 on 3s, with a fairly tight slipper. Now I have seen one guy have problems with the internal diff gears/top shaft. He was also running twice as much power as any of us, runnin his rustler into the 90mph range. So there is a breaking point to these gears. Extremely high rpms along with a 4 or 5s lipo on a torquey motor along with a little chatter while braking will cause the gears to fail catastrophically. The only way around that is custom machined,heat treated steel gears. Other than that, it's a very well designed transmission that will handle way more than what the vxl on 3s can throw at it. I think it was the planetaries and/or the top shaft we found to be sintered powdered metal, and not a true steel alloy, so they aren't going to be able to take as much punishment.

i like that big heatsink on the motor, and the Huge computer fan on the esc lmao:P = fail, if you have any problems with the tranny your just gonna have to go with FLM stuff I'll drop 24/86 Get 70+ mph and still be 150F all day,

I ran 33/76 on a VXL motor in a slash on 3S and she ran 71mph with aero and suspension modifications. It would make maybe 3 runs before the VXL motor was too hot to touch and the VXL esc gave out after about 10 runs.

Hobbywing geared 19/54 mod 0.8 (geared for around 90 mph) on 4s with 2350kv motor = no problems at all. All day. There is a heatsink on the motor as it is so understressed from lack of load it runs more inefficiently than it would in an 8th scale. I could take the fan off the ESC no problem and run it, but I see no reason to.

Redvanmafia: I can't seem to find a thread around here where you aren't bashing cheap, but quality electronics. You're making yourself sound like an ignorant fan boy arse, so please wise up, and do some research. It would see that Lilredmachine has tested all the systems you seems drool over, and was displeased with the performance, so he switched to a cheaper version, and found it to be of higher quality. He is not simply saying "LMAO :P= fail", he is giving examples from his experience, which I have rarely seen you do.

I love that fact that your bragging about your slash saying its faster than anybodys and bluh bluh bluh... Honestly your not getting much power from an inefficient motor such as that. I can go and call you out and saying that my slash is faster than yours I ran a Neu 1515/1y on 6s in my slash, yippee! But arguing like this isn't going to help the OP question getting asked... The most common thing it the roll pins.. Thats the only thing I ever Broke.. Once I did i drilled it out and JB welded a piece of a drill bit in there and it was the strongest part in there and had no problems running it like that...

At the end of the day, Who cares how fast it is.. I don't. Considerably.