Custom Deep Vee
#1
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From: largoFlorida
I would like some help and suggestions from the community. I am building a 29" deep vee rc electric boat. I am planning on running two 3cell lipo's and I have a Great Planes 42-50-800kv outrunner brushless motor. I plan to buy things off of hobbyking.com and hobbypartz.com. I have no clue what size of rudder or strut/stringer to use. I have the Aquacraft SV27 strut but dont really care for it. It looks too long for my purpose. Would it be? Is there a better option out there I have not come across? I want the rudder to be offset from the prop, but does it need to be fore or aft of the prop? This would be a surface running prop setup.
Thank you all in advance.
Thank you all in advance.
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From: Peterborough,
ON, CANADA
Even if you run the batteries in series the rpm will be too low for much performance, to get any speed you'd have to run such a large prop the handling would be messed up from the torque.
For 6s you want a motor 1300-1400kv, this will give you an unloaded prop rpm aprox 30 000+-
If running the in parallel then you'd be looking at about 2900kv or so.
If anything the sv strut will be very slightly too short for the boat, stinger length should be about 10% of the hull. Being said SV hardware works very well in my 29" Delta Force mono clone.
4s setup with an 1800kv motor.
For 6s you want a motor 1300-1400kv, this will give you an unloaded prop rpm aprox 30 000+-
If running the in parallel then you'd be looking at about 2900kv or so.
If anything the sv strut will be very slightly too short for the boat, stinger length should be about 10% of the hull. Being said SV hardware works very well in my 29" Delta Force mono clone.
4s setup with an 1800kv motor.
#3
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From: largoFlorida
Would it be better if I run the lipo's in series or parallel? I am new in the electric powered things. I use to be all nitro until I stopped from the cost and the maintenance of the nitro. Now electric seems like its better and easier. Plus I can't run nitro or gas rc boats at any of my nearby lakes. Any help/ guidance would be wonderful.
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From: Aberdeen, UNITED KINGDOM
Series adds the voltages but capacity remains the same, parallel keeps the voltage but increases capacity. Kv of motor x voltage should be about 30000. As husky said even series would not achieve this.
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From: Peterborough,
ON, CANADA
What is your budget?
You boat is a pretty much perfect size for a 4s setup with an 18-2000 kv motor, An aquacraft UL-1 or Revolt motor would work great with an inexpensive turnigy 120 or swordfish 120 esc.
Also gives you a boat that fits right into P (4s) limited or spec mono, class usually runs a pair of 2s5000mah batteries in series. Has to run a motor available in either a proboat or aquacraft rtr boat, open esc.
There are some cheaper options for motors but you would have to run against open class motors where guys are spending huge money on motors and batteries.
Doesn't matter so much if racing is not in the books.
Going down in voltage with the same size motor and prop will increase the amp draw and the heat, not really what you want.
Going up in voltage means a lower amp draw all things still equal, better option.
You boat is a pretty much perfect size for a 4s setup with an 18-2000 kv motor, An aquacraft UL-1 or Revolt motor would work great with an inexpensive turnigy 120 or swordfish 120 esc.
Also gives you a boat that fits right into P (4s) limited or spec mono, class usually runs a pair of 2s5000mah batteries in series. Has to run a motor available in either a proboat or aquacraft rtr boat, open esc.
There are some cheaper options for motors but you would have to run against open class motors where guys are spending huge money on motors and batteries.
Doesn't matter so much if racing is not in the books.
Going down in voltage with the same size motor and prop will increase the amp draw and the heat, not really what you want.
Going up in voltage means a lower amp draw all things still equal, better option.
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From: largoFlorida
I dont want to spend over $250 on motor, esc, and lipo's. A little over may be fine. Why would you suggest a 120a esc? This is mainly for fun for right now. Maybe I will get into racing later on.
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From: sunshine coast, AUSTRALIA
motor-leopard 4074 2200kv RC ECHO-$70
ESC-turnigy marine 180amp boat esc Hobbyking-$78
4 to 6s lipo works really well
look at hobbyking for a rudder they have a good selection of rudders around 100mm+ good for your size boat
ESC-turnigy marine 180amp boat esc Hobbyking-$78
4 to 6s lipo works really well
look at hobbyking for a rudder they have a good selection of rudders around 100mm+ good for your size boat
#9
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From: largoFlorida
I am thinking about getting two 2s lipo's and putting them in series.
What is the difference from the Leopard 4074-2200kv to the Turnigy Aquastar 3974-2200kv?
The rudder I have is 95mm deep, 25mm wide and the LE sits 42mm back from the transom. Would this fit properly?
What is the difference from the Leopard 4074-2200kv to the Turnigy Aquastar 3974-2200kv?
The rudder I have is 95mm deep, 25mm wide and the LE sits 42mm back from the transom. Would this fit properly?
#10
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ORIGINAL: gshunsbergerjr
I am thinking about getting two 2s lipo's and putting them in series.
What is the difference from the Leopard 4074-2200kv to the Turnigy Aquastar 3974-2200kv?
The rudder I have is 95mm deep, 25mm wide and the LE sits 42mm back from the transom. Would this fit properly?
I am thinking about getting two 2s lipo's and putting them in series.
What is the difference from the Leopard 4074-2200kv to the Turnigy Aquastar 3974-2200kv?
The rudder I have is 95mm deep, 25mm wide and the LE sits 42mm back from the transom. Would this fit properly?
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From: sunshine coast, AUSTRALIA
the turnigy motor is only recomended to go to 5s where as with the leopard you have the ability to go to 6s and the leopard is a better quality motor and you may see increased torque over the turnigy but both are very good motors.
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From: sunshine coast, AUSTRALIA
a rudder should be 10%-15% of the length of your boat therefore a 29 inch boat 10%=2.9 inches roughly 80cm so your rudder shoud be fine
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From: largoFlorida
I am going to mount the rudder to the right of the prop. Should I mount the rudder behind, next to, or in front of the prop. Also how far should it stick down below the transom and prop?
#16
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From: sunshine coast, AUSTRALIA
it doesn't really make a difference where you place the rudder on the other handone of the up sides to having the rudder inline with the prop is that that the prop can help push water up into the water intake on the rudder if the holes line up it works like a pump.
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From: Peterborough,
ON, CANADA
On a mono hull the rudder is mounted on the right side.
Many reasons but this is one I paste regularly for this question
"Because props torque roll & walk effects monos like it does, mono's always turn best to the right. So in single rudder applications the RUDDER is mounted on the right so as hull leans over in it's most efficient dirrection the rudder is well planted in the water. If on the left rudder would be pulled out of the water as boat leaned into the turn making control worse harder the turn "
Inline is one of the worst setups for a mono, rudder is in the prop wash and much less effective.
Strut length should be 10% of the hull length, rudder should be mounted so the blade is behind the prop to the right looking at the back of the boat.
That's total bunk about the prop pushing more water up the rudder intakes. You will have a water air mix which is much less effective at cooling. You want the rudder running in undisturbed water for best results all around.
http://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/ElectricBoat/mono.php
some good setup info here, and a good diagram of a properly set up transom.
Many reasons but this is one I paste regularly for this question
"Because props torque roll & walk effects monos like it does, mono's always turn best to the right. So in single rudder applications the RUDDER is mounted on the right so as hull leans over in it's most efficient dirrection the rudder is well planted in the water. If on the left rudder would be pulled out of the water as boat leaned into the turn making control worse harder the turn "
Inline is one of the worst setups for a mono, rudder is in the prop wash and much less effective.
Strut length should be 10% of the hull length, rudder should be mounted so the blade is behind the prop to the right looking at the back of the boat.
That's total bunk about the prop pushing more water up the rudder intakes. You will have a water air mix which is much less effective at cooling. You want the rudder running in undisturbed water for best results all around.
http://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/ElectricBoat/mono.php
some good setup info here, and a good diagram of a properly set up transom.
#18
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From: largoFlorida
So I have been looking at motors and cant really decide. These are the ones I am looking at: Ammo Motor 2300kv 36-50, Leopard 2860 Motor, Leopard 4074 Motor, and Turnigy XK4074-B-2000KV. What would everyone pick? I an planning on a 180A ESC and using 2x 2S1P LIPO's in series.
#19
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Im hearing good things about these SSS motors,some say better than leopard,these are made by TFL hobbies.
Mart
http://www.horracing.com/product_inf...roducts_id=591
Mart
http://www.horracing.com/product_inf...roducts_id=591



