Speederson

I agree. I never had a cooling problem with stock no MODS at all. All right turns.

Blackjack52

RTR.......go figure.

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Could you please post some pics of the tubes. I am guessing that you are talking about the tubing connectors on the jacket. I would like to see how small you are talking about.

Funboyfly

I've already done the job See the pic,original tubings are pretty small...I replaced both and run now perfectly cool

Blackjack52

Sweet mod.
Just a suggestion..put a small strip of elect tape over the top edge of the motor mount. That way if anything rubs it, over time, it won't frey a wire or wear tubing.

Orange Crush

Sure... Here's a pic. By the way, the brass outlet on the top of the rudder (typical of all the connectors on the oem cooling sys.) will take a 3/32 drill bit down the pipe w/room to spare. The tubes on the offshore electrics jacket are only...right @ 5/64. They are smaller. May not seem like much, but after having increased the size of the rudder inlet hole, the inlets on the jacket have will become the smallest, point of most resistance in the enitre system. I can see whay Funflyboy did what he did. I won't run it like this. At the very least, I'll try to step it up to 3/32 (at least), or replace the inlets tubes as he did. Good eye, Funflyboy....

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Yeh, I can see the big difference. funboyfly, how did you change the connector? did you have to solder the new connectors in? I'm pretty good at soldering that won't be a problem But I just can't tell from the picture how you did it and what did you use for the new connectors?

Orange Crush

Since it came up, I got to thinking I'd just try to drill the tubes out on the metal jacket to 3/32". First one broke loose while drilling dry w/a dremmel from the heat generated. I then submerged the jacket in a bowl of water while drilling (my son's idea). It worked great. I used expoxy to reattach the one that broke loose while drilling dry and both are now bored to 3/32 and I am now comfortable installing the jacket into the boat.

Next week: Stage II modified rudder inlet and modified metal jacket. We'll see.....

PS. I haven't had any overheating problems. Right turns only. I just want to see water flow down the straights like I did on my other SV.

Speederson

Is this the SV cooling thread?[sm=spinnyeyes.gif] Tuff not to mix em up when you post in them after reading. Its all relevent.[8D]

You wont add a pick up but you mod the tube or fittings. I dont get it. All stock works fine. Is your trim the same on OC as it was on MG?[rudder] Just because youre going straight doesnt mean the rudder is perfectly straight. It only takes a hair right trim to pick up thru the rudder. Maybe OC is running just a hair straighter then MG was. For the record I run warehousehobby pick up off port tab and OE jacket. No other cooling mods and no heat issues yet and I run it hard. The pick up is for sport and exhibition. All right is boring when you want to show off the boat. One screw, move the tube back and its race ready. The OE jacket is because two out of two OEMs leaked.

I will wait till I have a cooling issue before any more mods. Good job on all the mods as now I will know what to do to improve when I have Issues.[sm=thumbup.gif]

Funboyfly

I removed the two connectors with the heat generated drilling them.They broke off as they're glued and the glue melted.
Next I took two female gold plated battery connectors (4mm I/D) shaped to fit the jacket with the dremel and a file.
They're glued on the jacket with Loctite not soldered.Then I strenghtened the connectors on the jacket with a small ring of 5mn epoxy.

Orange Crush

1) I don't want to add a second p/u. Besides the extra drag, I just don't think it's needed for my usage....few left turns.

2) I invested in the offshore jacket. I didn't like the id of the tubes and would not use it like it came and further reduce the flow of water. At that point, it was either fix it or toss it.

Funny you mention steering trim. On MG I adjusted it to run as straight as I coould. On OC, I find myself adjusting it for water flow.

Blackjack52

Lets face it Jallen. It's a conspiracy. MG has already spoken to the others. OC doesn't like what you did with MG.

Speederson,
This is just conversation and this is good because newer rookies will read this and learn from it. I might also be looking at it wrong too. I've done it in the past.
What you mentioned about the trim sounds legit, but I know with my rudder p/u, I get flow on the straights at WOT. It's just harder to see because it's more a mist than a jet due to the insane speed=increased water pressure. Hey there it is. This boat was advertised as "insane speeds", but maybe it'll drive you insane getting there. Just joking. Great boat.
But if you add less left trim to make her ride true, then your statement makes sense. The rudder would be angled more to the neut or right. However, if you have to add left trim to make her true (which will most likely be 99% of us) then the more left trim, the less flow through the rudder. If you're already getting really good flow through the straights and you have to add left trim to true her up, I would think the same would happen if you just corrected manually with the rudder control. You would still lose flow the more the rudder deviated to the left.

Not picking, but you mentioned you're running stock water, but you have incorporated an extra water pickup by the trim tab. Also, when you switch from hopped to OEM, you will have to re-adjust your rudder trim to compensate for the less drag. When I ran this test setup to see what the difference would be, I only ran about 5-10deg cooler (before cleaning the flash from the jacket), but I also lost about .6-.8mph (I think). (I trashed the notes and don't feel llike reading through the threads.) Add in gps inaccuracy for that run and it could be a whole 1 mph lost. I'd rather run at 120F on the motor and 130-140s on the batts with high 35mph controllable WOT runs, than have the water p/u in the water slowing me down, causing me to lose more time by having to adjust trim to compensate for the water p/u.
But that is a very good idea to maybe try and take out 1-2 deg on left trim to see if that increases the flow at WOT. But you might have to add your own left back in.

Hey, we're still just conversing OK. I also realize you can swap to full OEM in 10 sec. This is just for throwing out ideas so we can all learn from these insane boats.

Orange Crush

"Water Gate"....

Speederson

Hey I couldnt agree more. Its all about information and education.[8D]

You want to be on the racing edge with no disadvantage. Like you said when I race it I will take off the PU. Right now I just want fast sport.[left and right] You are right on the trim too. When its running true I just turn the rudder manually right a HAIR and go from no pick up to good flow.

" I invested in the offshore jacket. I didn't like the id of the tubes and would not use it like it came and further reduce the flow of water. At that point, it was either fix it or toss it."

See you didnt even try it stock. I did it works just fine Otb. It covers more of the can then OEM and I get a hose stream thru the outlet and the motor runs cool 100 to 110F. Toss it my way.

Hey all the mods are good. Its all good. What ever floats your boat.[sm=thumbup.gif]

Blackjack52

I like that, "What ever floats your boat." That wouldn't be a good thing spending the money on a hop and it not being able to do it effectively. I understand. At least you found a way to keep the new jacket and make it work. Can't complain I guess, either way, 100-110 is darn good with the size of this motor.

Orange Crush

Toss it my way.

No way, man! Especially now that I used my high tech water cooled boring machine to increse the water flow exponentially!!

rooski

OK guys, how do you like my new custom made metal cooling jacket? Ribbed aluminum shell inset into milled plexi endcaps. Inside the jacket allows a 1.5mm deep layer of water to encompass the can. The cool ribs don't show up too well on the picture but trust me when I say it is beautiful in person. If anyone would like one of these I can tell you who can make one for you

Blackjack52

Hey,
"but trust me when I say it is beautiful in person."
I'd like to meet her.

No really,
I'm interested in one, but only until you get it wet with at least your 642. After the #s you'll have me sold.

Benmat, maybe this will help with the 290F run. Now the flames paint scheme will look really good.

gunnut

Rooski, that jacket looks super nice! Let us know how it works.

Waterlogged

Yes, Good job there bud, got my vote for best looking.

http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video....b6c74d926b3888

[:-] Something came up during my runs today, the fact that my motor can is cool but the motor's armature was WAY too hot, 162F in fact. I could barely touch the shaft with my finger. The batteries are pretty cool after taking out 3100/4500mah.... so not thinking I'm not pulling too many amps.

Anyone else have hot shafts?
-WL

Stinger9d9

I just got back from the pond, this was the first time I could measure temps, since my order from Tower FINALLY arrived.

Anyways, with the Duratrax infrared gauge, here are the numbers:

All runs were 12 cells
All runs were with my new balanced and sharpened Prather 220 bronze prop
Of course, these are with the aluminum water jacket I made, and with the water pickup I posted pics of back on message #47 of this thread.

Water temp 41F...I know, it's COLD, so the temps will be lower, but these temps are REALLY cool.
Air temp 55F

I always measured the motor from the front, directly at the end of the shaft, this way, to try and hit the armature everytime, 1" away from the motor, at a 90 degree angle to the surface. I wrote down the highest temp I could get.

1st run Gp3300's: 78F at the shaft, batteries 118F
2nd run Tenergy 3500's 81F at the shaft, batteries 120F
3rd run Intellect 3600's 84F at the shaft, batteries 130F
4th run GP3300's 79F at the shaft, batteries 120F
5th run Tenergy 3500's 74F at the shaft, batteries 110F
6th run Venom 3000's 76F at the shaft, batteries 133F

I measured the ESC the 1st three runs, and it was 65F, 66F, and 60F.

That water jacket I made is rockin! I think I might actually start making them, and putting them on Ebay or something, after all, they fit all 36mm OD brushless motors, so they would work for more than just this boat. The again, I could make them all different lengths, and diameters...the imagination runs wild...

I have 52 runs on this motor with that water jacket. I always said it "felt" like it was barely warm after a run, almost like it had not even been run. Now I have temps to show it!

Waterlogged

My last run hit 162F at the rear bearing, I also know I was hearing a loud squeal before I brought the boat in. Can hear the sound in the last video too

Blown bearing [] I believe. Wonder how I'll get to it, have to wait until work week is finished. -WL

gunnut

The simplest thing to do is make sure you oil the bearings. I checked my shaft temps after running today and it was 92 degrees on the rear and 88 on the front bearing. The can was 78, ESC 72, batteries 120 (IB4200's).

Stinger9d9

Oil? I guess I'm supposed to oil the bearings, but haven't yet.

Any particular special type of oil? How often? I grease the flex cable after every trip to the pond, but since I saw no mention of oil, I got lazy about it. I've gotten away with 52 runs so far, and no heat issues so far.

Heliman

Yep Stinger, I have a SV 27 coming and I would have made my own water jacket like you did if my lathe and mill wouldn't have been burned up in fire when my shop and warehouse burned down last Sunday night.

I guess no more self made mods for any of my RC equipment as it will be too costly to replace all my machinery since I had no insuarance for the contents of my building. The worse part is that the fire didn't start in my building it started 2 stalls down and was set on fire on purpose to cover up a murder.

Well what Katrina didn't take from me the fire sure finished me off. Guess I lost about $1,000,000.00 in inventory and equipment.

Well enough of my rant, I guess I'll make me another glass of milk to cry in, then go to bed.

Happy Thanksgiving Guys,
Randy