hey fellas im new to the post i got a cesa 1882 when i was 14 and of course put it together wrong. it doesnt even have an hour of run time on it. I burned out the stock speed controller and bought a tekin water cooled speed controller but never put it in. After ten years i want to get back into the hobby and am lookin forward to it. I have two dilemmas. I dont have the skill to put it back together so im payin the hobby shop guy 100 bucks to get it runnin wanted to know if this sounds like a rip off, Its funny i can rebuild motorcycle engines but i cant fix an electric boat. second i want to know what kind of speed i can expect with the stock dual m&Y 700 motors. thanks again look forward to the responses

If you want it to run the way it was supposed to run with all stock equipment then you will need to be prepared for about 15 MPH maximum which is very slow. Don't pay some hobby shop guy a dime for that. I would suggest you do as most people with the ABC Super Hawaii or CESA boats do and get rid of those slow dual motors and convert it to a single real 700SC motor on a flex shaft out to a strut/rudder set up. You could initially try to use the steerable stock outdrive (instead of the strut/rudder) but the 700SC motor's power will destroy it fairly quickly. On 14 cells you should get around 28-30 MPH with a 45mm prop.

Just so you know, those stock motors say 700RST on them but they are 500 series motors and way too weak for a 40" boat.

If you can rebuild motorcycle engines, you can easily re-do a CESA. It's just not that hard and there are plenty of people here that will help you at each step. It will take you some time and some money to do but it's a fun process. I know, I've done it twice with these hulls.

Here are some pictures that may inspire you:

rooski i knew you were gonna say dont bother rebuilding it to factory specs. Like i said i can build a motorcycle engine except for the wiring. There in lies my problem i learned about engines from my grandfather but he left out the electrical details. You really seem to know alot about this stuff and i appreciate your input brotha i know i should go with the single motor and the flex shaft. Next question is will my local hobby shop know what im talking about and also what kind of cash are we talkin about. Thanks again rooski i appreciate the input. also i respect your opinion what kind of motor should i get.

It really depends on what you want out of the boat and how much you are willing to spend. If you want it to be a fairly fast electric then proceed as I described earlier. Also, you may or may not be able to use your Tekin speed controler depending on how it is rated in terms of handling high amp draw... as in 60 amps. If your ESC is rated this high then you could take out the Jeti ESC I show below and reduce the prices by $73.

Here is pricing at offshoreelectrics.com...........(your LHS won't have all this stuff most likely unless they specialize in FE boats)

Without racing hardware (using the stock outdrive) not including battery packs and radio equipment (RX, TX, servo) of course:

ESC - Jeti 600 marine $73
700SC motor - $45
Schottkey diode, set of 3 noise reduction capacitors $1.50
Water cooling set up $12 (700 coil, tubing, etc.)
Motor mount - $0 (you can easily make this from angle aluminum from Home Depot, see pic below of my 800 motor on custom mount) ....................or you could buy one from OE for $6
5mm to 4mm flex connector (motor to drive shaft) $12-$15
45mm CF prop - $7
Trim tabs-turn fin set - $5
12g deans wire and connector pairs x 4, $12

[/b]Total $170[/b]

BTW...you will need the $5 trim tabs / turn fins (1.5" long) because when this boat goes fast it does not turn well without them.

With racing hardware set up:

ESC - Jeti 600 $73
700SC motor- $45
Schottkey diode, set of 3 noise reduction capacitors $1.50 (you can have Steve at OE pre solder these on for you for a price)
Water cooling set up $12 (700 coil, tubing, etc.)
Motor mount - $0 (you can easily make this from angle aluminum from Home Depot, see pic below of my 800 motor on custom mount) ....................or you could buy one from OE for $6
5mm to .130 hex flex connector $10
45mm CF prop - $7
Speedmasters/Rossi .130 racing hardware set (includes stuffing tube, teflon liner, .130 flex shaft, drive dog, and prop nut as well) - $95
Trim tabs-turn fin set - $5
12g deans wire and connector pairs x 4 $12

[/b]Total $260[/b]

This is not a cheap hobby as you can see. None of this stuff is hard to do. The electrical stuff is easy (red wire= +, black wire= - ) You will need a decent soldering iron some Deans solder to finish the connections. Also not hard once you get the hang of it.

Lastly, there are several people here that have redone these boats so there is plenty of experience to guide you in this quest. If you are convinced that you can't do this or don't want to....sell the CESA and by a SV27 for ~280 and you've got a really fast boat that someone else built for you.

Rooski thanks for the thorough input it helps alot. I have been looking at my wiring diagrams and i am figuring it out. I have another question. the esc that i have is a tekin tsc432m water cooled with a forward current rating of 300 amps. i hooked up the wires to my voltmeter and hit a huge problem. The positive and negative on the battery are peaking on the meter on a ten volt scale using one 7.2volt battery. However the problem is that the positive and negative going to the motor are dead. It has a drop solder fuse and it is intact never blown. i have never used the thing and i am pissed cause i dont know what the heck to do. any ideas? Also the motor mount is something i would rather buy than make if it only costs six dollars cause i want it to be right. I don't understand what OE means and where i can get one thanks again for the thorough input u really know ur stuff

P.S. im never sellin this boat man it has sentimental value and i know i can build it. Besides i think its one of the best lookin electrics ive ever seen. Dont worry im not gonna give up

[quote]ORIGINAL: rcboatguy1981

"Rooski thanks for the thorough input it helps alot. I have been looking at my wiring diagrams and i am figuring it out. I have another question. the esc that i have is a tekin tsc432m water cooled with a forward current rating of 300 amps. "

I can only assume that is a peak amp rating and a really high one at that. Should be fine.


"i hooked up the wires to my voltmeter and hit a huge problem. The positive and negative on the battery are peaking on the meter on a ten volt scale using one 7.2volt battery. However the problem is that the positive and negative going to the motor are dead. It has a drop solder fuse and it is intact never blown. i have never used the thing and i am pissed cause i dont know what the heck to do. any ideas?"

I'm not sure what you are saying. A 7.2 v battery pack (6 1.2v cells) will usually peak around 8.5v if you have decent cells. No idea why it would showing 10v...are you sure about your readings? Also, are you saying that the battery appears to be fully charged (did you charge it recently?) but when you hook it up to the motor nothing happens? Are you going straight from the battery to the motors or thru the ESC?


"Also the motor mount is something i would rather buy than make if it only costs six dollars cause i want it to be right. I don't understand what OE means and where i can get one thanks again for the thorough input u really know ur stuff

OE = offshoreelectrics.com ....and you're welcome


P.S. im never sellin this boat man it has sentimental value and i know i can build it. Besides i think its one of the best lookin electrics ive ever seen. Dont worry im not gonna give up

I totally agree...it is a beautiful boat. I only wish someone made it in a real fiberglass hull. The thin ABS plastic is problematic. It's flexy which costs you speed and it's easily cracked so be careful with it. Also, if you ever swith out the stock outdrive for racing hardware you will need to really strengthen the transom (an ABS sheet cut to size on the outside and one on the inside) or otherwise the hardware could be too much for the plastic and simply break off.

Keep us posted.

The Tekin ESC should be up to the task, as it can handle at least 16 cells.

Did you connect the motor wires to a motor, when testing the ESC?

It's very well possible the electronics are designed NOT to switch power through the fets, if the ESC "sees" no load on the motor side.

I would connect a motor and try it once more.

Regards, Jan.

yeah i connected them to the motor but when i hooked them up to the voltmeter the battery wires had current but the positive and negative to the motor didnt. what i did next was hook the speed controller to the receiver and radio on my truck a traxxas sledgehammer with no motor connection just steering and it worked so i know that the battery cables work. any ideas

I have 2 of the tekin 432
When you hooked up the power to the 432 you have to have it also plugged into a receiver
There is a small on off switch that comes on the tekin
This switch is to turn power on for the receiver so you will not need extra batteries for the receiver
You must turn this on
When this switch is on and you have turned on your transmitter there should be a small red light in one corner of the 432 on
You should be able to pull the trigger on your transmitter now and the motor will spin
If it does not there are 2 small screws under water plugs in the top right corner you will have to adjust , easy to do
Give it a try , it all has to be plugged together or nothing will work

im just gonna go with the setup that rooski recommended the jeti 600 with the 700 motor they have a package deal at offshoreelectrics.com that looks pretty good. besides the tekin tsc 432m is huge and weighs alot. now all i need to do is make some money to pay for all this stuff

yeah i turned the switch on had everything connected right and i never saw a light im gonna try and play with those screws maybe something will happen thanks for the input

another quick question since im new at this what is a brushless motor and why are they so special

A brushless motor has no brushes to drag on the motor comutator that cause friction and drag and heat , this all cost some wastage in the use of the power the motor can make and makes it less effiecent and more to maintain BUT they are cheaper

Some other guys will jump in probably with super technical info but the bottom line is that BL (brushless) motors are a LOT more powerful than their brushed counterparts. The small looking motor in the SV27 is as powerful and can rev significantly higher than a 800 sized brushed motor (which looks like a shorty beer can it so huge, and weighs 1 lb).

BL motors are supposed to run cooler because there is less friction from not having brushes (although my BL motor runs hot). They don't require a break in period, they last longer, and they need less maintainence. Oh...and they are more expensive and require a special BL ESC which is also expensive.