Hossbog

I just bought a Supervee 27 brushless. At first water was not cooling the motor, then I cleaned the line out on the rudder. A guy told me to spray that dust spray in a can through the output of the water. When I did that i could feel air coming out the rubber housing around the motor. Is this normal? I moved it around a little and reduced the amount of air leaking through. Is this an air leak, or is it normal? Does the water actually touch the motor when running, or is it incased in the rubber housing?

Quicksilver1

well, if youre using pressurized air, it's kind of tough to tell, whether or not it's okay. Eventually any seal will fail under enough pressure. I think the only real way to find out is run the boat, like 30 seconds and bring it back in and check for water.

here's everything you would ever want to know about SV water cooling

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4843027/tm.htm

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Take the jacket off, turn it inside out and make sure there are no silicone burrs where it was molded. A lot of people have found alot of burrs that block the flow.
There is a good upgrade water jacket at www.offshoreelectics.com
Some people have found that the stock jacket leaks water.

Hossbog

I read that thread Quicksilver, but I still dont understand. They are using a seperate water pick uo on the left trim tab? They said you could get it at warehouse hobbies. I saw a kit, but is that the right one. Do you eliminate the rudder water line. They also said they would have water shooting from both sides, how is that? Finnally, at warehouse hobbies it has a pump. Do you need that.

SV27dayton

Does anybody have a good picture to show him of the modified pickup? I'd think there would be a good one one the big cooling thread somewhere but I'm not going hunting. If you get the OEM jacket to stop leaking you should have ample cooling for typical running. It's a good idea to clean out the jacket like was stated above, and it will leak when you put it back on at first. I think Grim explains an elevated bottle setup that can be used for leakchecking and also good for between-run suplimental cooling or flushing saltwater. That's also in the main thread. If you are shooting for 40 mph or running 7 cell packs I'd say start upgrading. If not make sure nothing is blocking the sock system. I also had an aluminum burr in the inlet on the rudder. I get lots of flow through the stock system. My motor and ESC temps are great, I worry more about the packs.

Quicksilver1

Dayton I linked the thread, but hossbog I dont own a SV, sorry, thought theyd say somewhere in the 50 pages or so.

Jeff Wohlt

Drill out the intake on the rudder a bit.

Also, you really do not need some high pressured stream shooting out of your exit hole to cool a motor.

If you over pressure the factory cooling ring it will swell and leak even more.

MrMikeG

I run stock cooling, cleaned everything out first before running and it keeps it very cool. The rudder had metal chips in it and the silcone motor jacket needed cleaning up inside as well. I drilled the outlet out one size bigger too as it was smaller than the rest of the system from the factory!