just trying to put a new shaft together for my mini cat and was wondering has anybody used high grade super glue to lock the shaft and stub together I know people used permanent locktite why not high grade cyanoacrylate[sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_down.gif][sm=confused.gif]

I doubt it will hold. Use Loctite 603 retaining compound or the permatex version on your flex cable and you won't have to worry about losing a prop.

I sweat soldered mine on with silver solder. It's on there for good Unless my flex shaft gets up to like 350 degrees. If that happens the solder joint isn't going to be the biggest problem.

I think solder is the best answer too. I hate listening to my motor whine in neutral knowing my favorite prop is on the bottom of the lake.

I use Red Permanent Loc-tite on all my shaft to flex connections. I've also used Loc-tite on a mid mod Zen running around 5hp on a 1/4" shaft. Always holds, never fails, and is much easier to use.

Ryan

I'de like to try that just because you don't have to heat up the cable and it wold be a little quicker/easier then the solder method if it really holds but I can't seem to find the permanent loc-tite. Where do you guys get it, and what exact one is it?

well last night I decided to put a length of rosin core solder in the stub shaft and heated it with a flame(bic lighter)and ruffed up the shaft and the stub prior to this attempt. when the shaft slid in the solder squirted out I let it cool and I could not pull it out so I guess it held. I also put a 1/8" shaft in the dremel and spun it down to 3mm only on the length that passed through the bearings so it now fits octura props&drive dogs.(just hope the solder holds) [sm=47_47.gif]

It wont hold...

why not please explain how to fix it then[sm=confused.gif]

Self-done solder jobs seldom work for long - for several reasons. One, incorrect prep of the flex cable - removing all the preservative oil, using the correct flux, etc. Two, wrong solder - rosin core seldom has the strength. Three, overheating the cable - this structurally weakens it, setting it up to break later. Four, rust - not removing all the flux so that internal rusting of the cable begins immediately and continues until the cable breaks. If you want a reliable soldered cabe, buy one from a reputable supplier. Hughey cables are the best in the business.

Retaining compounds have become the preferred method to attach wire drive lines, and many guys use them with excellent results on flex cable. The Permatex Sleeve Retainer "glue" is the best and has been used with success on cable for over six years. This stuff is readily available at NAPA and while a little tube isn't cheap, neither is a roll of silver solder. It is still necessary to clean the cable well, but the retaining compound eliminates many of the problems with solder, and anyone can do it. I have broken wires yet the compound held tight.


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Heh, the 55% silver hard brazing solder I use is $100 for a roll, then $25 for 4oz of white phosphorous flux. RPM is right on all accounts.

Here is the stuff I use http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/products.php?cat=40
I haven't lost a prop yet.

well YOUR right I just twisted it off by hand now I,m going to get more cable and loctite thank you for the heads up BB modss good lookin out

OK just got back from lhs and the owner (very smart gentleman) sold me a stay bright solder kit. well with that and my trusty pencil torch just resoldered both shafts with better than expected results thanks debbies rc world for the tip