Boat turn over, top came off and sank!
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Boat turn over, top came off and sank!
Well everything was going great today. I have a Shockwave 26 with I converted to a Traxxas VL brushless setup with a new 11.1 Maxamps 4000mah lipo. Well the thing flys or did anyway till I hit something in my lake which cause it to turn over on this side. When it fliped over the top came off and it took on water and everything including my new battery and Specktrum reciever got flooded. So I got my other homemade special boat to save it but it was pointing straight up and grounded to the bottom to the lake. After 10min all of a sudden the boat give one last burst and move closer to the shore for me to grab. So I then started taking apart the reciever and esc. Everything was soaked.. If anybody has gone though this, please let me know whats save-able. I hope the battery will dry out to use again since I dropped $120 on it, and $80 on the reciever. Any ideas about what to do. Thanks guys
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RE: Boat turn over, top came off and sank!
Sorry to hear that you flipped , But it happens to the best of us lol . as far as lipos are concerned i cant elp ya there i know very lil on them but as to your other electronics , the best thing to do id disconnect everything and and hit everything , i mean everything with corrosion x , (you can find it in a marine store ), leave it for about a day and then wipe everything off this stuff is really nasty but it seperates water witch is what we need it for clean everything and rebuild and 70% chance your gonna be fine
p.s if you flip your boat a good thing is to do it out on site better chances to save electronics . hope i helpped a bit
p.s if you flip your boat a good thing is to do it out on site better chances to save electronics . hope i helpped a bit
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RE: Boat turn over, top came off and sank!
Use some hatch tape. A little late now but for future uses. It can be gotten anywhere. Some people use electric tape or packing tape or you can buy some hobbyshop "hatch tape". Either way it will keep that top on and help prevent this kinda stuff. As said above theres a pretty good chance your stuff survived. Let your stuff dry out for a few days before putting power to them. Oil the motor bearings, I open the cases of the esc and receivers to let them dry easier. Not sure that can be done with the VXL esc, don't own one. Check the voltage on your lipos make sure the cells are still balanced. From what I've read, the actual water doesn't ruin lipos but does discharge them(if discharged to much it could ruin them though because of the to deep of a discharge or unbalance)
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RE: Boat turn over, top came off and sank!
hey there, bad luck but don't worry too much. Its happened loads of times to me, and with a little care you can get everything to work again. The lipos should be the least of your worries, as far as i know the cells are pretty water-proof, so unless there's a cut or hole in the silver packing of each individual cell, i think you should be fine.
Corrosion x and similar products, as well as hatch tape, are all must-haves unless you're a zillionaire...so yes that's brilliant advice i think
As regards the receiver, what i usually do is unscrew the retaining screws at the back and take off the cover to let it dry thoroughly. to avoid future mishaps it's a great idea to stick in three servo extension leads (one for esc, one for servo and one for receiver battery) into your receiver and put everything in a balloon, with the three leads and antenna coming out. Blob of silicon and cable tie, and you're sorted (just make sure you label the extension leads to know which one goes where.
The servo will survive, unless it was saltwater you were running in (you say you were running on a lake, so no prob there). Servos are quite easily sealed, so if you plan on flipping it, and want your servo to keep serving (haha), it might be a good idea to take it apart and seal the seam with silicone. Keep the servo arm sprocket lubed with silicon grease.
As regards the ESC, well i've managed to fry quite a few because i was impatient and operated them before they were 100% dry. I would give it a few days, or even a week before trying to switch it on again (although the damage might already be done - you say it spurted to life...was there an evil smell coming from the inside?)
hope it still works!
Corrosion x and similar products, as well as hatch tape, are all must-haves unless you're a zillionaire...so yes that's brilliant advice i think
As regards the receiver, what i usually do is unscrew the retaining screws at the back and take off the cover to let it dry thoroughly. to avoid future mishaps it's a great idea to stick in three servo extension leads (one for esc, one for servo and one for receiver battery) into your receiver and put everything in a balloon, with the three leads and antenna coming out. Blob of silicon and cable tie, and you're sorted (just make sure you label the extension leads to know which one goes where.
The servo will survive, unless it was saltwater you were running in (you say you were running on a lake, so no prob there). Servos are quite easily sealed, so if you plan on flipping it, and want your servo to keep serving (haha), it might be a good idea to take it apart and seal the seam with silicone. Keep the servo arm sprocket lubed with silicon grease.
As regards the ESC, well i've managed to fry quite a few because i was impatient and operated them before they were 100% dry. I would give it a few days, or even a week before trying to switch it on again (although the damage might already be done - you say it spurted to life...was there an evil smell coming from the inside?)
hope it still works!
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RE: Boat turn over, top came off and sank!
Wow, thanks guys. I see I'm not the only one and I'm glad to hear some sound advice. I took apart the esc and the reciever and let everything dry and amazingly everything work perfect today. I'm surprised I thought the batterys would be the worst.
So I decide to showing it off to a buddy and the damn universal broke. I guess it wasn't made for a metal prop and this much torque/power. I'd rather not replace it with the factory piece since it will just do it again. I'm having a hard time finding a heavy duty "short" 3mm to 3.2mm u-joint. Here's the stock piece its 3mm to 3mm but I reamed out the tail/rudder to except 3.2mm (1/8) so I can run 1/8" shaft and props. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PRB3108
Anybody have any adivse?
So I decide to showing it off to a buddy and the damn universal broke. I guess it wasn't made for a metal prop and this much torque/power. I'd rather not replace it with the factory piece since it will just do it again. I'm having a hard time finding a heavy duty "short" 3mm to 3.2mm u-joint. Here's the stock piece its 3mm to 3mm but I reamed out the tail/rudder to except 3.2mm (1/8) so I can run 1/8" shaft and props. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PRB3108
Anybody have any adivse?
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RE: Boat turn over, top came off and sank!
I usually stay away from universal joints. Looked stupid once too many at the edge of the pond [&:] with onlookers smiling like i'm a complete ass. dunno if you can use this info, but if you don't find a good "short" flex coupler, you can use a solid aluminium coupler mated to a flex shaft. that way you can have the shortest coupler you want, and still have the flexibility. Alternatively, if you want to use a solid steel shaft, you could use 2 solid couplings with a piece of flex between them. However its important to solder the ends so that the grub screws dont flay the flexcable. Alternatively you can use the grub screw 3.2 mm to 1/8th flex collet (x2)...hope this helps?