detox

My relocated Super Vee trim tabs, is this correct? I filed holes in trim tabs so I could adjust them more flush with hull of boat. When new the trim tabs set .100 higher against transom. Should they be returned to the factory .100 higher setting?

My setup:
Entire bottom scuffed with red scratch pad (Menards, Lowes, etc)
One thin cote of Pacer Z-Poxy Finishing Resin on all wood parts (#PT-40)
SS trim plate’s bent downward 1 degree to the bottom of the hull
Strut set at 0deg
Rudder blade tucked full under (stock shear bolt)
Venom 2S LIPO moved to 8" balance point from transom.
Added turn fin to the port side (AQUB7882)

detox

Today using this setup boat was super fast, but wind was was blowing and water was choppy, boat would take off like an airplane and barrel-role when top speed was reached. What can be done to correct this? Do I have to wait for less wind and smoother water?

SV27dayton

Tab mounting location looks perfect. You can bend the tabs down and it will run more stable on that kind of water or just take it easy. NOT. You may want to look into the adjustable tabs on OSE. They fit te stock mountin holes and make precise adjustments fast and easy. This will help in the chop but at the end of the day you'll be fishing her out more often than not, especially with the lighter load of the lipos. Sounds like you've got her going good. Keep it up.

detox

Thanks...the boat was stable and steady at 3/4 throttle, but when I give her 100% she would take off like airplane. Can't wait for better water conditions.

pompebled

Seems you have too much power to be able to go full throttle in those conditions.
I even manage to barrelroll my 12 cell 700 motor mono hull if the conditions are rough enough and the boat is more in the air than on the water accellerating too quick will do that.
If the wind is strong enough, every boat running into the wind will take off and flip backward (even my heavy 12 cell boat).

Mind you, these crashes are not good for the structure of the boat, my laminate tends to develop cracks when I overdo it in this way..., but it's cool to do from time to time, specially with a functioning floodchamber.

Regards, Jan.

detox

Finally got some some decent water to run SuperVee. Had to bend tabs downward slightly more and boat was very steady and smooth at full throttle.

Using Fourteen 4500mah NIMH cells run time lasted about 5 minutes. Using Two 2s 5000mah Lipo's runtime doubled and boat was a little faster.

Remember...batteries forward to 8" balance point and trim tab angle downward slightly with hull.

I used 3/32" hobby plywood and Walmart Industrial strength velcro to position batteries more forward to balance point.

I also used Dielectric silicone grease on servo/esc/transmitter "box lid" so water would not seep in when boat is flipped.

finvee27

Did u use glue to attach the plywood&velcro to the boat and what kind of glue was it?
I´m thinking to do the same thing....

detox

I used Pacer Finishing Resin part# PT-40 to seal wood and to glue it to hull. It takes about one hour for this glue to start setting up so do not get in a hurry.

The Velcro (Walmart Industrial Grade) backing is so sticky you do not need to glue it...just peel and stick

Here's epoxy: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCX58&P=ML


...................

finvee27

Can u take i better picture(straight from up) inside the hull. I need to see exacly how the plywood is attached!

detox

I cut one piece just big enough to fill orignal battery hole opening and cut another small piece to extend batteries on hull floor. Do the same on opposit side.

If I could do it over again I would remove SV wooden battery tray completely, apply finishing resin to smooth out hull, then attach Velcro dirctly to fiberglass hull.

finvee27

How can u see 1 degree change on trim tabs??
Is this the only way:

just use either a clear (see-thru) or adjustable carpenter angle, you can get it at any hardware store for a few bucks.

Immediate simple solution for at home, detach both tabs, place with edge on piece of paper and trace. Then use pliers and bend until they are little more open then the line is on the paper.

Then take the second tab and bend it to match the first.

detox

Start at 1 degree down and keep bending downward until bow is steady and does not porpus up and down. Once you find the tabs sweat spot record it with your methods mentioned above.

finvee27

But do u think that i should first move the batterys 1" front and after that start bending the tabs?

dicko

I'd get your balance point at 30%, then start messing with the tabs.

finvee27

U meen 30% of the boats whole lenght or what
Does this meen that i have to move batterys so much that the balance point is 30% from the back to the nose(8 inch = 20cm measured from the back plate)?
Who/what says that it should be balanced to this point?[] tested or theory
Where do balance it and how?
Put a 3" pipe on the table and start findin the point where the boat stays in place or what?

detox

Starting from back of transom and moving forward I marked the bottom of my boat with a Sharpie marker at the 8 inch mark. I then set my boat on its stand's edge at this mark. You will have to move batteries forward to keep boat from tilting back. Move batteries forward until boat barely sets level this is your balance point. Find balance point before applying the Velcro to hull bottom.

This tread from another forum explains balancing point well. There are lots of other good treads about the SuperVee 27 there also[8D]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=1532

Quote from Whiplash:
"Like an air plane, boats turn and pivot on thier balance point. If this point is too far back.......you'll have to give alot of trim tab to get the nose down, thats alot of drag, if its too forward....... every wake you hit, boat will want to pearl
I set my point 30-33% of the hull length. same as the chord of an airplane wing.
30 seems to work the best.
sv is 27" long, 30% is about 8" from transome to nose. adjust your batteries till this is balanced on your fingers. lock them down there, dont change'em.
now play with your strut and tabs and props till you get the best ride.
with this set up, Im jumping wakes from behind the livingston dingy rescue boat,
1-2 feet off the water and landing upright everytime. high speed is not a problem. my strut is straight with bottom of boat, my tabs are a hair lower than bottom of boat, and I use a Grim Racer prop, 42X55 balanced, sharpened, and cupped. actul measurement now is
40X55 and sharp.
try that and youll see what I mean. I may not be the fastest boat out there........but I finished the race a few times by myself
heheheheheh. I'll take pics of it next pow wow and post it here. G/L ALOHA"

finvee27

Thanks a lot, i love u man

This is what i wanted, a clear instruction
Now i have to wait week before my glue, plywood, extra Starboard Turn Fin etc. arrives to me....
Then i will make all the needed changes and "rock" my boat

detox

You actually need the port side fin part # AQUB9522 FE MONO Port Turn Fin, but your starboard version should work OK. Port side is left hand side and starboard is righthand side of boat facing from back to front. Some people say the port side fin is a waste of money and does nothing but slow Super Vee down, but I turn left alot so I thought I would try it.

Here's another good tread at Rumrunnerracing. They have lots of good boat info also.
http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/fefor...ad.php?t=25675

finvee27

How much does it effect to the speed? Has anyone ever measured it?

detox

Probably very little effect. Water conditions play a bigger role in how fast your boat moves, glass smooth water is noticably slower than a slight choppy water condition. Also the higher you can raise your hull out of the water the faster it will go, but it will be more loose and more prone to rollovers. Ragged edge is fast.

SV27dayton

That's an exelent explanationg detox. Using the stand that comes with the boat, so simple. I like the way you think. I've been holding my boat up balancing it on the edge of a ruler staning right in front of the stand .

finvee27

Detox Rules

DoubleDub

Thanks alot for the simple explanation! Hopefully the wind will calm tonite and I can try this out in the morning.

detox

Here's a good tip: Winds blow less late in the evening before dark and early in the morning after sunrise IF a weather front isn't coming thru.

SV27dayton

I guess I thought that was obvious but maybe not. Grew up waterskiing and barefooting. Waters always best then cause you beat the other guy to it but also the wind is usually low until the sun starts to make things happen. I remember being on Dale Hollow in Tn and getting up early to get the good water. Lake surface was 80+ and the nights would drop into the 70's so the fog would be like soup in the moring. We'd get up and idle out into the fog and wait. Then when the fog lifted you saw 2 other boats waiting. Still the best skiing water I've ever seen. Sorry off topic, we're drinking and I'm getting sentimental.