candles46

Hi i,ve got a 32" cat running a 380 long 2881kv motor on 3s1p 3200mah with a 1.4x38mm prop, It goes priity well and its getting to speeds of up to30mph ish but the problem is that all the electrics are getting a bit to hot at arround 60-70c and its only lasting about 3-4 mins so ata guess its pulling about50-60 amps. Nowithink its because the motor is way to small for me boat and is doing a lot of work as i have check the shaft and its nice and free and greased up.So i was thinking if i put a bigger motor in it like a 540 xl will it be pull less amps and last a bit longer thx steve.

BACKEMF

yep

candles46

I,ve just put a 540 xl motor in the cat but the motor is touching the inside top of the hatch, it will go on with a squeeze but will it burn or is there anything else i can do thx, steve pics below.

candles46

Can someone tell me how to Fix this please thx.

brodjack

Hi,you will have to adjust the angle on the motor via the adjustment on the mount to angle the motor down and then align the flex shaft and stuffing tube to match.
Take some pics of the tube inside the hull.

Also your batt.is too small a mah for a big cat,it will get hot,you could parallel another same pack to double the mah and increase runtimes and have a cooler battery.
Brod..

candles46

Ok i have angled the motor down enough to fit the hatch on but how am i going to connect the coupling to the flex shaft? thx steve.....

candles46

Forgot to say, will the motor melt the fiber glass if its touching the inside top of the hatch?.... because if not i can just leave it how it was......thx

brodjack

You would have to dismantle the area where the stuffing tube goes through the hull and maybe grind a larger/longer hole then align it all up.

If the lid fits,and touches the motor it wont melt the glassfibre.
Providing it doesnt knock the motor/shaft out of alignment,it might be ok,not a perfect solution though,it might make a vibrating noise with rubbing on the canopy too.
Without seeing first hand its hard to advise.

If it was me I would do the top advice..but i'm a perfectionist.LOL..
Brod..

candles46

Thx mate i,ll see what its like with it touching, if it don,t work out then i,ll have to sort it out.

brodjack

you have a PM...
Brod..

befu

My Feedback: (2)

Candles, how is this project progressing along? From the looks of this, is this boat from jhocheung on ebay? I was looking for a smaller version, but this is tempting. From your experience, might go with the bare hull and power it with a larger motor from the start. Bare hull is$143 del vs the AMRTR $262 del. $119 of stuff I can buy and not have to re-do anything.

Other than the motor being to small, what was the quality of the boat?

Brian

lomdel

You can also try lowering the motor couple of millimetres by Dremelling the motor mount holes a bit bigger to get some vertical adjustment as well. Dremel have a cool angle attachment that I use often for difficult to get at areas.

candles46

Hi peeps i got the boat from astec here in the uk but it is the same as the ebay one's, the motor that came with it is very under powered so your best going with the bare hull and getting better motor and electrics, the quality not bad, its a little thin in places but then again i have nothing to compare to thx.

candles46

Do you have to use the plastictube inside the brass tube that the flex drive goes through because i,ve taken it out and it seems smoother, is there a reason for using the plastic tube in thebrass tube thx.

befu

My Feedback: (2)

Boy, I remember back in the gasser days this discussion. Back then, it was pond side or at the boat meetings as thier was no "forums".

The "plastic" tube should be a teflon liner which is designed to give the drive shaft some slip. If it is bent to tight, we used to get a bit of binding in it and it would cause drag. We used to run the gasser flexshafts directly in brass tubes, just keep them well greased as it gave us less friction. Now, the gassers spun a lot slower than these electrics are.The main problem I see is the brass tube may wear out eventually. What we would do it put a short(3-5" or 7-12cm) straight piece of brass tubingthrough the hull and secure it. Then the next size smaller brass tubing (that fit the drive shaft) would be put through that and run from the motor to the drive strut. If the stuffing tube wears out, cut the old one, slide it out and install a new one.

If you do not run a teflon liner, makes sure your bends are very smooth and gradual. Anyone with more experience on FE want to chime in and help this guy out?

Brian

befu

My Feedback: (2)

Wondering if this ever ran or has progress been made?