I took my boats to the lake today for a little playtime. The Triton is still running well, I'm just ready for a bit more speed out of it now. The mini-c ran well too, when it got up on plane. Every trip before this it had no problems doing that itself, but this trip it wouldn't. I had to toss it to get it really going. The only thing I've done since last time was grease the shafts...I'm really not sure why the change. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, the battery in the Triton is a 6 cell 2400mah Venom NiMH. I was just curious why my charger doesn't peak until it has 2700mah in it? The pack takes it fine, doesn't get to hot.

On your mini-c it could be that your rear u-joint could be binding one way or another against the transom or outdrive. I would check that first and adjust accordingly if need be. The other thing could be the prop itself . If it has any nicks or bumps that will also affect it being able to get up on plane. I would always sharpen and smooth up any rough edges or you could upgrade to a replaceable prop by getting a prop shaft and prop for the shockwave 26. Makes all the difference in the world. I'm not sure on your battery question.

I did end up getting the shockwave 26 prop and propshaft. It's a lot faster now, but doesn't seem to have the high-rpm scream it did, almost like the prop is keeping the motor from spinning as fast as it could. Not that I'm complaining, just wondering if there is more speed to be had that I'm missing. I think I might try and get a flexshaft from OSE too. The motor ujoint exploded today.

Good to hear that it's faster now. I think you're not hearing the high rpm scream is because the sw26 prop is bigger and it is keeping the motor loaded and not allowing it to waste the power and torque by spinning and cavitating like the stock prop will sometimes do. If you are running on the stock battery (7.2v nimh) then you are doing all that you can with this set up. If you want more speed you will either have to go brushless or upgrade to higher voltage batteries. I have used 8.4 nimh, 9.9v life, & 11.1v lipo on mine. The lipo will be the faster of all of them, but as you go up in voltage you will start having problems with heating of both esc & motor. There are ways to overcome and fit the motor & esc (stock) with cooling. If you want pics of these set ups let me know. Hope this helps.

The motor usually gets pretty hot when I run it, so I'd love to see some pics of your setup. I may try and get a 7 cell pack and see how that works too. A pretty nice NiMH charger came with the boat, so I don't want to buy lipos and a charger just yet. Thanks for all your help.

well goldswim here are some pics of the cooling mods that I have tried on the mini-c. You can add a cooling tube by taking some 1/8" alum tubing & wraping around a dowel or something round of the same size. This will help some. In order for it to fit though I cut some of inner part of the mini c to allow the motor sit almost like it was supposed to. I also installed a cooling plate from the mini rio on the front of the motor. The tubing on the plate has jb weld over it help conduct the heat better from the motor. The two together makes a world of difference on the overall temp that any motor will run in this set up. I have checked the temp on 2 or 3 different motors and the highest it ever showed was 102deg. Would have been higher (if not smoking the engine) without this cooling on it. One thing I would change is to weld the alum pipe on the plate instead of jb welding it. I know it would conduct the heat much better from the ones that I have made on some of my brushless set ups.

The esc is relatively simple. The heat sink on top of the esc will come off without too much effort. Then you can either drill a hole through the top of the heat sink large enough for a single 1/8"(? I think thats what I used). I haven't done this on the mini c yet, but I did on the mini-v which uses the same setup throughtout as the mini c does. This mod made that esc run almost 10 deg cooler just by doing that. I have also seen on the mini-v thread where one guy took the heat sink off and just ran tubing in and out and around the 4 tabs that poke through. I don't know how effective that is however.

I hope that what I've said makes sense and the pics help you some.

Alright well thanks to all your help Damfurst, I got this done today. I was going to put a tube through the esc heatsink, but couldn't get the hatch to close with it and it interfered with the battery. It's got the Aquacraft mini Rio water pickup and cooling plate.




My Triton is set up basically the same way with the same pickup. I need to find one with a bigger inner diameter for it though, the tubing flows a lot more on it and the pickup can't supply enough. It works great on the mini-c though.

Looks really good goldswim. What you said about the tube through the esc heatsink makes sense since I know that under mini-c hatch is not near as much headroom as the mini-v has. But if all you run is 10v or less for battery's you probably won't need one anyway. I had never tried the mini rio pickup on my mini-c, but had on the mini-v. I couldn't get it to work so that's why I went with the tubing. Looks like it worked out well for you. Well I hope you continue to have fun with your triton and your mini-c.