maverick pro

hey guys...im going to start makeing the miss t-pluss FE unlimited hydro. would there be any wont for this style hull to make productions of? its the same hull as the dpi 31 inch t-plus but built in fiberglass or carbon, polyester or epoxy. cost of a hull only done in gelcoat will be added when i make the first hull and see what cost will be to make it. i mite even do a painted version so all the owner would have to do is ad the provided decals to dress it up.

let me know what you guys think.

chief3452

Interesting venture, priced right I bet it would sell well. Offer a thick lay-up for nitro and I bet you would sell even more. Neat alternative competitor to a Vegas Duece too.

maverick pro

hey chief...thanks, its something i always wanted to do but never had the chance to. now with no job i have all the time in the world to do it till i find a job. if it does work out i would love to keep doing it and make other hulls to. nitro version mite be tuff....but it can be done.

im going to shoot for 80 to 120 dollers a hull. but i still have no idea waht it would cost to make one after i get the mold done. it may be less or more than that.

just wanted to test the water and see if it was worth it.

thanks again....mike

maverick pro

started the waxing on the cowl and rear fins. next the hull and deck. soon will start the pva then gelcoat and first layer of glass.

thanks...mike

maverick pro

i dont miss doing this at all lol

fin set and cowl layup.

eboat

How long is this boat going to be ?

maverick pro

hey eboat...31 inch long x 14 inch wide.

thanks...mike

maverick pro

ok pulled the parts out the mold tonight. now need to wet sand the mold for actual fiberglass parts to be pulled.
on to the hull now....

eboat

Sounds very interesting
How tall is the opening space into the sponsons from the hatch (to put lipos)
I had an old MRP Budwiser hydro and ended up spitting the hull apart to take out a spacer to make room to get the lipos to fit

maverick pro

man i bet that was fun getting that hull apart. the sponson opening is 1 1/2 then it drops down the step of the sponson. blus the cockpit has lots of room for another 2 lipos stacked.

thanks...mike

maverick pro

got the hull layed up late last night in to the morning. the hardest parts is the double wing boxes in the rear section of the hull. i should have made theme solid for the plug but didnt wont to hurt the abs hull. oh well if it doesnt come out right i will just make a new one.

thanks...

eboat

I think you could fill in the out put shaft part in the mold so the bottom of your boat will be flat and when a motor is set up in the hull a small notch can just be cut into the bottom where it needs to be for the brass stuffing tube to come through The way it is now there is only one real place for the motor . just my thoughts see what others say

maverick pro

good idea eboat.

thanks...mike

misshydro

I seconded that...Some might put the motor alittle head or back..so its better to leave it closed/coverd over up..and let the person place the flex shalft in the desired prosion he wants it in..

maverick pro

i will just use clay to fill it in just in case somebody wonts it like the t-plus was setup with the factory cg and all.

thanks again...mike

misshydro

Dont take it personally maverick pro.. The old setup I bet was with a brush motor..plus that hull was setup old and outdated equipment ,like drive and rudder and motor and ESC...Most to all would be running a brushless motor and upto date gear in those hulls..Most aftermarket companys that make hulls dont drill hole for rudderes or for flex drive tubes..They leave it up to the new owners to do that,just in case they run a different setup or run a setup they like..It's a win win situation for you too..less time to spend on doing that stuff for you..=quicker on making the hull and getting them finish ....

maverick pro

your exactly right....now i just need to get the thing done lol. will see what turnsout when the lower hull is pulled from the mold.

thanks...mike

maverick pro

if you ever make a mold from ABS plug with polyester resin you better use pva after the coats of wax. if not your part will be eaten by the gelcoat and stick to the mold to no end.

thats what ended up happening to my lower hull that is now junk. the only reason the other parts came out ok was i used 9 coats of wax with 3 coats of pva. this will never happen again after what this cost me.

the mold may be saved if i can get the other parts out. the mold will need extensive work to be ready for parts.

again....sorry

maverick pro

makes me sick but ive gotten some parts out. mold like i thought needs lots of gel work. should be able to fix though things are looking a little better after 3 hours of pulling, cutting, hammering, chisleing.

Raylon

maverick, really sad to see that, but I am glad you made some process. I hope you are able to salvage it and keep on working on making a hull.

eboat

Ouch

I was hoping to see this boat run

maverick pro

hey guys...its looking better but now its more work for me that i really cant afford. im going to start the top deck and use the pva for sure. wish me luck lol.

thanks...mike

maverick pro

hey ryan...thanks man, its hard but may still work out. hey hows the fountain running. wish i still had that boat it was a blast to run.

thanks...mike

Raylon

Mike, the Fountain is awesome. Had it out running today. Runs great on those 11.1v Lipo's. Dunno if I would even want to try 22.2v.

maverick pro

hey ryan...man that thing looks sweet. im really happy you like it. i bet its much better on lipos then it was on heavy nimh. any idea how fast it is now?

thanks..mike