Brushless and Reverse
10-19-2009 | 11:46 PM
#1
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From: , AUSTRALIA
Brushless and Reverse
A very basic question-
Can Brushless motors run in reverse?
I want to use one in a boat that will be used in both directions (tug)</p>
10-20-2009 | 12:58 AM
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From: Bucharest, ROMANIA
RE: Brushless and Reverse
Just make sure to read enough about the ESC you want to buy. Some of them will not run 100% power in reverse, but only 30-60%... not good for a tug.
10-20-2009 | 07:02 AM
#4
RE: Brushless and Reverse
Yes the motors can run in reverse................i run one in a traxxas villain which has a drive reduction so it has to run in reverse and im pretty certain they run the same speed either way. Mine works great.
10-20-2009 | 09:40 AM
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From: KitchenerOntario, CANADA
RE: Brushless and Reverse
They can be reversed with no issues. However brushless motors and speed controllers like to run full speed otherwise the controllers can sometimes overheat. For a tug, I would stick with a brushed motor.
10-20-2009 | 11:10 AM
#6
RE: Brushless and Reverse
ORIGINAL: doby
They can be reversed with no issues. However brushless motors and speed controllers like to run full speed otherwise the controllers can sometimes overheat. For a tug, I would stick with a brushed motor.
They can be reversed with no issues. However brushless motors and speed controllers like to run full speed otherwise the controllers can sometimes overheat. For a tug, I would stick with a brushed motor.
That may explain why I am getting temperatures of 150 on my ESC using a 3s lipo when it can handle a 4s no problem. I was casually running it and it was running quite hot. The motor was around 90 and battery around 80. But for some reason, ESC was 150's.
10-20-2009 | 12:33 PM
#7
RE: Brushless and Reverse
Here is a direct quote of instruction for the UL-1 racing boat:
if you operate your boat at “less than full power” for the full duration
of the run, you might likely experience an ESC failure. The
extra voltage the batteries deliver is being managed by the
ESC and can cause the ESC to get hot enough to fail.
You'd be better off using a big graupner with a low kv as already stated.
if you operate your boat at “less than full power” for the full duration
of the run, you might likely experience an ESC failure. The
extra voltage the batteries deliver is being managed by the
ESC and can cause the ESC to get hot enough to fail.
You'd be better off using a big graupner with a low kv as already stated.
10-20-2009 | 11:18 PM
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From: Ozarks, USA
RE: Brushless and Reverse
ORIGINAL: rebuilder
Here is a direct quote of instruction for the UL-1 racing boat:
if you operate your boat at “less than full power” for the full duration
of the run, you might likely experience an ESC failure. The
extra voltage the batteries deliver is being managed by the
ESC and can cause the ESC to get hot enough to fail.
Here is a direct quote of instruction for the UL-1 racing boat:
if you operate your boat at “less than full power” for the full duration
of the run, you might likely experience an ESC failure. The
extra voltage the batteries deliver is being managed by the
ESC and can cause the ESC to get hot enough to fail.
10-23-2009 | 01:31 PM
#9
RE: Brushless and Reverse
I'm with you on this one Sundogz.
Double the amperage on the ESC for your calculated/estimated/rated load.
Also use an ESC that is rated for a higher voltage than the voltage being used. So if for example you are using 4s. select an ESC that will take 6s, with the cut outs set for 4s of course.
That way any amp spikes & voltage spikes will be absorbed by the ESC without blowing it, unless it's a dead short in the system that is.
Batteries are another thing. I like to make sure the batteries can deliver at least 50% more amps than the current draw of the setup. This also makes life easier for the ESC.
Also, with the full throttle thing, these are basically the same ESCs as used in helicopters & planes where they run at part throttle for a lot of the time.
Although too much part throttle does build up the heat, a suitably sized & cooled ESC should work OK especially in a lower amp draw situation like a tug breid.
Here's a couple of reversing ESCs for you to look at.
[link]http://www.himodel.com/electric/HiModel_FLY_Seires_40A_Brushless_Speed_Control_for _boats_W_Reverse_function_Type_NAVY_FLY-40-OPTO.html[/link]
[link]http://www.himodel.com/electric/HiModel_FLY_Seires_70A_Brushless_Speed_Control_for _boats_W_Reverse_function_Type_NAVY_FLY-70-OPTO.html[/link]
Cheers.
Paul.
Double the amperage on the ESC for your calculated/estimated/rated load.
Also use an ESC that is rated for a higher voltage than the voltage being used. So if for example you are using 4s. select an ESC that will take 6s, with the cut outs set for 4s of course.
That way any amp spikes & voltage spikes will be absorbed by the ESC without blowing it, unless it's a dead short in the system that is.
Batteries are another thing. I like to make sure the batteries can deliver at least 50% more amps than the current draw of the setup. This also makes life easier for the ESC.
Also, with the full throttle thing, these are basically the same ESCs as used in helicopters & planes where they run at part throttle for a lot of the time.
Although too much part throttle does build up the heat, a suitably sized & cooled ESC should work OK especially in a lower amp draw situation like a tug breid.
Here's a couple of reversing ESCs for you to look at.
[link]http://www.himodel.com/electric/HiModel_FLY_Seires_40A_Brushless_Speed_Control_for _boats_W_Reverse_function_Type_NAVY_FLY-40-OPTO.html[/link]
[link]http://www.himodel.com/electric/HiModel_FLY_Seires_70A_Brushless_Speed_Control_for _boats_W_Reverse_function_Type_NAVY_FLY-70-OPTO.html[/link]
Cheers.
Paul.
