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Help with getting started.
I need some help with getting started. I've looked at electric, nitro, and gas and have decided on electric. I was hoping to find a boat that runs between 30+ and 45. I'm really interested in the SV27 but was wondering if there are any others out there I should consider. I'm willing to spend about $500 not including any mods. The price of the SV27 is a big bonus so I'm leaning toward that model right now, plus with the extra money I figure I've got some room for mods. If I were to go with the SV27 what mods could I do to it to make it run in the high 30's low 40's? Best battery, prop, whatever, etc...? Could I safely run a LiPo battery? I want it to run these speeds and be reliable (I don't wanna smoke the motor). Could I get a more powerful motor in the SV27.
Again, I'm willing to look at other models it's just that I've heard a lot about the SV27. I would like to stick with a deep-vee. I just wanna know where my money will be best spent up to $500. As you can tell I'm completely new to the hobby. |
RE: Help with getting started.
Here ya go. This is from the guy that designed the SV27
"I would like to be the first to offer some tuning tips regarding your new boat. Please feel free to ad as much information as you might gain in your QUEST FOR SPEED. Here is my Grimracer setup. Aquacraft SuperVee 27 Entire bottom scuffed with red scratch pad (Menards, Lowes, etc) One thin cote of Pacer Z-Poxy Finishing Resin on all wood parts (#PT-40) SS trim plate’s .5deg positive to the bottom of the hull Strut set at 0deg Rudder blade tucked full under (stock shear bolt) DTX 3800s (two 6 cell packs) Added turn fin to the port side (AQUB7882) Octura X-440/3 prop (bag) Top speed… 38MPH (note: the wind blows almost all the time here, typically our water is loose)" From here. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47..._1/key_/tm.htm More info on these threads. Batts.............http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4835667/tm.htm Props............http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4835624/tm.htm Cooling.........http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4843027/tm.htm Welcome to the Forums. Peace Out edit to add......Just copy and paste those links. Dont know whats up with that[&o] |
RE: Help with getting started.
Great job Speederson,
One thing I would like to add is to ask the shop where you buy it from what parts they have in stock for it. You want to do business with someone who will have replacement parts and hop up parts in stock. Steve at www.offshoreelectrics.com has hopups and is great with customer service. He is also very knowledgeable and very helpfull when you are not sure which way to go. |
RE: Help with getting started.
you won't get a boat going 30-45 mph stock. There is a mini hydro at offshore you should check out.. people are saying its not to fast tho. go to gravesrc.com. there the only website with the sv27 in stock. i bought mine from there. offshoreelectrics.com has some upgrade parts for it, but with a x440 prop its already doing 38.
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RE: Help with getting started.
you won't get a boat going 30-45 mph stock
Well yes, yes you will. My SV did 33MPH, OTB. |
RE: Help with getting started.
How about 42.6 mph w/a prop and decent setup...... If that can be done on NiMh's, I don't think 45 mph is inconveivable on Lipos...
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RE: Help with getting started.
Could this boat safely handle the LiPo battery? How long will the LiPo battery last until it needs a charge, roughly speaking?
What about other motor options for the future; are there any? I really don't expect my boat to be stock, in fact I want to make as many mods possible as long as my boat isn't gonna have a cooked motor after not too many runs. When you say "scuff" the bottom, do mean just enough to take the shine off the bottom? Also, what do you mean by "Rudder blade tucked full under"? Orange Crush...when you say prop and decent setup, what do you mean by "decent" setup? I want to get the most out of the boat with mods etc, without causing serious damage to anything. Please be patient, I'm just learning and I want to look at everything from all angles. I'm very familiar with boats, Sunsation 32 dominator to be exact, just not RC Boats. |
RE: Help with getting started.
Could this boat safely handle the LiPo battery? How long will the LiPo battery last until it needs a charge, roughly speaking? What about other motor options for the future; are there any? I really don't expect my boat to be stock, in fact I want to make as many mods possible as long as my boat isn't gonna have a cooked motor after not too many runs. When you say "scuff" the bottom, do mean just enough to take the shine off the bottom? Also, what do you mean by "Rudder blade tucked full under"? Orange Crush...when you say prop and decent setup, what do you mean by "decent" setup? I want to get the most out of the boat with mods etc, without causing serious damage to anything. Please be patient, I'm just learning and I want to look at everything from all angles. I'm very familiar with boats, Sunsation 32 dominator to be exact, just not RC Boats. you won't get a boat going 30-45 mph stock Well yes, yes you will. My SV did 33MPH, OTB. |
RE: Help with getting started.
Could this boat safely handle the LiPo battery? How long will the LiPo battery last until it needs a charge, roughly speaking?
Yes, they can handle Lipo's. My friend runs 3700mah 2s lipos in his SV. Actual safety is up to the user and something to become familiar with if your not before considering Lipos. As for run time, mah is mah I would think. Weight is, of course, the main benfit. What about other motor options for the future; are there any? I really don't expect my boat to be stock, in fact I want to make as many mods possible as long as my boat isn't gonna have a cooked motor after not too many runs. I have seen one in town here and one or two burnt motors here on the forum. In most cases, I think motor heat ie. setup might have contributed. Check all the threads here concerning the SV for tips. The cooling thread will benefit the longevtiy of you motor. Their are lots of possibilities for replacement motors. There's even a thread on it somewhere here if you look. When you say "scuff" the bottom, do mean just enough to take the shine off the bottom? Also, what do you mean by "Rudder blade tucked full under"? Exactly. You just want to knock the shine off. What you are trying to do is break the surface tension. As for the rudder, it is adjustable forward and backwards. I have mine tucked full under and also have the water inlet modified...check the cooling thread! Orange Crush...when you say prop and decent setup, what do you mean by "decent" setup? "Super Tune Your SV" thread has all this info and more. Settings on tabs, strut angle, rudder angle, fin angle and number of fins to run and when, scuffing the hull, and lots lots more. I want to get the most out of the boat with mods etc, without causing serious damage to anything. I have improved the cooling on my boat, run an aftermarket prop and use 12c nimh batteries and am happy with it's performance. I oile the front and back of the motor and clean and lube the flex shaft affter each use. I hope it lasts forever. Please be patient, I'm just learning and I want to look at everything from all angles. I'm very familiar with boats, Sunsation 32 dominator to be exact, just not RC Boats. Most of us here are new, or failry new so don't feel out of place. Like you I've owned many "real" peformance boats. FE is a whole different story, though for the most part. |
RE: Help with getting started.
I have mine tucked full under and also have the water inlet modified...check the cooling thread! |
RE: Help with getting started.
Tucking the rudder full under means that the bottom leading edge of the rudder is towards the hull. This creates a lifting effect, pulling the transom up out of the water. With the stock rudder, this can only be done a couple mm. You don't need that much adjustment here. This adjustment will either help or hurt cornering.
Welcome Baboon. A new Grimmie........maybe. |
RE: Help with getting started.
A new Grimmie........maybe.
What's this supposed to mean? What are some other motor options I might have that this hull can safely handle? Is this the fastest stock FE vee-bottom boat out there? Does this boat have the most "potential" versus any other FE boats? Thanks for your help thus far, I've learned a good deal in the past day or two. |
RE: Help with getting started.
Grimmie is what I call us newbies to FE courtesy of Grim Racer, designer of the SV27.
None of us have really moved from the stock motor. Really no reason to as far as most of us are concerned. 33-42mph depending on setup is a wide margin without having to upgrade this motor (and that's with only using NiMh). But motor upgrade has been pondered. Here's the link: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_49...tm.htm#4946770 I've seen other deep v boats, but none that are RTR with these speeds and around $450 with batts and charger.. If you want, check out BBY racing also. And MHZusa. The price will start going up. And the others, you will most likely have to purchase the ESC and motor also. Every boat will have it's limit (some have busted 45mph on lipos and say she's still controllable). Room fro growth, I think so. If I want to upgrade the motor/ESC, I can, and even go higher cell count. But I'm happy with a 12cell config along with stock motor.ESC. |
RE: Help with getting started.
What's this supposed to mean? |
RE: Help with getting started.
Is this the fastest stock FE vee-bottom boat out there? |
RE: Help with getting started.
Does this boat have the most "potential" versus any other FE boats? If you wan't to within 50 or higher, you will need to build your own boat, like an areomarine titan 29 or something like that.. As far as a boat, you can pull out of the box, and pop batteries into and drive. This is the fastest thing arround.. |
RE: Help with getting started.
What are some other motor options I might have that this hull can safely handle? What speeds are you looking to push out of this thing?? Cause let me tell ya' this is a very nice fast boat.. You won't wan't to be replacing everything once you get it... Thats why these boats are made ready to run.. |
RE: Help with getting started.
I would like to push this boat to it's limit while still holding together and not wrecking anything. The price of this boat and the seemingly ease of modifications are a strong selling point for me. I'm just checking one more boat before I make my final decision.
What are the total costs most of you are seeing with your mods? |
RE: Help with getting started.
What are the total costs most of you are seeing with your mods? I would suggest the added turn fin (to other side) for added stabbibility.. You can find out more about the batts in the sv27 battery thread... There is really threads for everything, you just have to find the right one! Prop: $14, but keep in mind, you have to balance sharpen, and of course polish.. Turn fin: $7 But good luck finding one in stock! Nice Ib's: Depends on 6 or 7 cell... Normaly anyware from $45-$60... |
RE: Help with getting started.
Keep in mind the rough $45-$60 is only for one battery...
I get my packs from [link=http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com]Cheap battery packs[/link] Let us know if you have anymore questions regaurding this.. |
RE: Help with getting started.
ORIGINAL: Offshore Blue What are the total costs most of you are seeing with your mods? I would suggest the added turn fin (to other side) for added stabbibility.. You can find out more about the batts in the sv27 battery thread... There is really threads for everything, you just have to find the right one! Prop: $14, but keep in mind, you have to balance sharpen, and of course polish.. Turn fin: $7 But good luck finding one in stock! Nice Ib's: Depends on 6 or 7 cell... Normaly anyware from $45-$60... |
RE: Help with getting started.
The sharpening and polishing is only of you get metal props. Carbon Fiber does not require this and is fine for people that are not racing. |
RE: Help with getting started.
When I first purchased the CF props, I was told don't do it because they would flex and not perform well. Time and time again, I see answers like this throughout forums. But the pros keep saying.....try it.....bring it in and check temps.....if they're nominal keep it. This was before I became educated on prop calculations. Truth is, flex isn't such a bad thing IMHO. Less wear and tear on the driveline.
Comparing the x642 and CF48 is what I use........they both shoot very well out of the hole. I think the CF48 prop has slightly more punch out of the hole due to prop dia. The 642 is a little better in the corners due to the higher pitch. I really think if 2 SV27s were to drag, it would be a very interesting race. Mathematically they are the same on paper, but running in the water will produce different results. Try this for flex. The alum props will flex more than the copper. But, Stinger's alum 642 prop poses a new set of calculations unable to perform on paper. If you were to race a copper X642 and alum 642.....I would bet on the alum 642. Lighter, allows more RPM, and lower batt/motor heat. I've seen a lot of SV27 photos. Never have I seen one look like Stinger's on 12cells. It's the prop and it flexes more than a copper. Hey, and for the beginner, the CF props don't require SBP (sharpen/balance/polish) and only cost $5. You have a lot of choices. Read the Prop Thread and Supertune Thread mentioned above. If you want to settle for what someone posted they like....you can. Most of the data in the SV threads are backed by temps and most GPS, so you can make a good choice. Or, get some CF props and test for yourself. |
RE: Help with getting started.
I also haven't heard of, so far, someone posting a faster speed than what I'm getting on a 2 blade CF prop. The difference is about 1mph b/w the copper/ber x642(36.1mph) and the CF48 (36.8mph). I'm sure Stinger is well past this. This might even be faster than a 3 blade.
Stinger......that's a sting to get the alum 642 speeds. |
RE: Help with getting started.
Would it be possible to put a Hacker brushless or a Lehner brushless motor in the supervee27? I was wondering if the hull could handle the power and wieght of the other needed components? Or are those motors better suited in something like the Aeromarine Titan 29?
Thanks |
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