This is SIKK
05-22-2004, 08:18 AM
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This is SIKK
Recent bench tests have shown the full mod Sikk 29cc stroker engine to produce very pleasing results in the torque dept, producing more than the Modded Zenoah 260's. the one im testing is an air cooled model but i will have 3 27cc watercooled jobs available real soon.
Put two of these monsters in a larger hull or even one for that matter and there will be nothin to be ashamed of speed wise. a great starter 2 pulls from cold nice idle. and the best part is any clutch that will fit a Zenoah will bolt on the Sikk/Superior. and the price allows you to retain most of your limbs and male children. overall quality is exceptional and the chrome bore is well done and aftyer quite a few hours of running shows no wear other than what was expected.
Put two of these monsters in a larger hull or even one for that matter and there will be nothin to be ashamed of speed wise. a great starter 2 pulls from cold nice idle. and the best part is any clutch that will fit a Zenoah will bolt on the Sikk/Superior. and the price allows you to retain most of your limbs and male children. overall quality is exceptional and the chrome bore is well done and aftyer quite a few hours of running shows no wear other than what was expected.
05-22-2004, 05:16 PM
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RE: This is SIKK
Couldn't agree with you more. I also have several of these SIKK motors and find them user friendly. Of my three Zenoahs, none of them start consistently as easy as any of the SIKK motors. I have modified a 27cc to water cooled, made the coil mount out of stainless sheet metal and have run the motor in a 21lb. 57'' Apache. Nothing to set a record with, but will push the hull, regardless of water conditions to a little over 35 mph. I have gone through 4 tanks of 500 ml of fuel and never had to retrieve the boat. Cant say the same for my Zens. I have so far got 13,400 rpm's with a 275 prop. For some reason, the MW3 prop cavitates out of the hole when I suddenly accelerate. Tried lowering the strut and still the same. As if too much torque initially and cant get a bite. On the down side, the radius of the fly wheel limits how low you can mount the motor. In my Apache, low enough to run with the hatch.
I had no problems with bolts loosening, so far, as experienced by another member. The cylinder bolts hold and the motor is as smooth as the Zens. I also have a 29cc that I will play with the mods and see what it can do. I like the price and the the ease of start. It seems to not consume as much gas either. 500ml liter is about 17 oz. It takes me almost 20 min. to use that much and still have enough fuel to bring it back. I only run at 3/4 throttle most of the time, so thats not in race mode.
On a different note, I use dual rudders and decided to use one for water intake and the other to expell the water. The trick is to be able to drill your rudder in a straight line, then drill the hole in the back, on the flat side and tap in you pick up line near the top just as you would a water pick up. Run a line to the bottom of the hull, inside, and it will remove the water. I filled a 4 oz. bottle for a test run, and just at planing speed emptied it in 2 minutes. I finally used a mill to groove the back side enough to inbed a thin brass tube, secured it with JB weld and sanded it flat again. Extended the tube near the top and put a slight bend in, out ward, it so I can attach my water line.
I had no problems with bolts loosening, so far, as experienced by another member. The cylinder bolts hold and the motor is as smooth as the Zens. I also have a 29cc that I will play with the mods and see what it can do. I like the price and the the ease of start. It seems to not consume as much gas either. 500ml liter is about 17 oz. It takes me almost 20 min. to use that much and still have enough fuel to bring it back. I only run at 3/4 throttle most of the time, so thats not in race mode.
On a different note, I use dual rudders and decided to use one for water intake and the other to expell the water. The trick is to be able to drill your rudder in a straight line, then drill the hole in the back, on the flat side and tap in you pick up line near the top just as you would a water pick up. Run a line to the bottom of the hull, inside, and it will remove the water. I filled a 4 oz. bottle for a test run, and just at planing speed emptied it in 2 minutes. I finally used a mill to groove the back side enough to inbed a thin brass tube, secured it with JB weld and sanded it flat again. Extended the tube near the top and put a slight bend in, out ward, it so I can attach my water line.
