PEERPSI

Have a look at the attached photo. The yellow passage is the pulse port. There should be a hole in the engine side of the carb that then lines up with a hole in the gasket, then a hole in the isolator then a hole in the engine side gasket. This passage should line up with a pulse port on the engine head where the carb mounts. Looking at it now it would not work even with fuel in the primer bulb as the pulse port pressue is what opens the outlet check valve toallow fuel in.

jerni21

My Feedback: (-1)

alright guys, the pulse port was clear so i took the carb apart again cleaned it up some more, reinstalled it and brought the boat outside and nothing, so i took the carb from from my working weedwacker and bolted it onto the engine and the same thing so i know it's not a carb problem so im guessing the engine is dead now, dont know what killed it unless you guys have any other ideas im guess ill have to look into some new engines, lemme know if you guys can think of anything else

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

I have owned over 100 gas motors and never had one "die". Probably a tuning issue since you have spark.

jerni21

My Feedback: (-1)

i dont get it though because i tried a new carb, and i reset the carb to factory settings so wouldnt i at least get a little action out of one of those

black talon

My Feedback: (5)

i've seen brand new in the box carbs fail. you never know.

PEERPSI

Does it feel significantly harder to pull the engine over with plug in versus plug out? I'm wondering what your compression is like.

Did you say you tried a new spark plug or sparkplug from your other weed eater?

If it overheated you might have a cracked insulator that allows you to see spark when the plug is outside the engine but doesn't work in the head.

I agree with Justaddwata. My experience is more four stroke race car engines but the basics are the same. You need compression, spark and fuel delivery to work. It's almost always something simple that you have missed.

Just had a colleauge at work spent an entire day trying to get a variable frequency motor drive to work. I took over where he left off and started by testing the new motor from the shelf straight across the lines. Turns out the motor was a rewind with an incorrect nameplate. The current draw of the motor was twice the capacity of the drive, in other words the drive had no hope of ever driving that motor. Tried another older motor that should work with the drive and voila it worked.

Lesson is never give up and cover the basics first and when it's starts to seem really complicated go back and check the basics again.

LawHound

Possible woodruff Key Shear under flywheel causing timming shift and spark and fuel air mix not coming together at the right time?? just an Idea. Doug.

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

indeed a possibility though not a failure that one would expect without a hydraulic lock up in the motors recent past.

The fact that the motor has fired on occasion recently makes me think we are still looking at tune. It is a little more involved to check the key also so would tend to be later in my diagnostic checks (unless a hydraulic lock up had occurred recently).


As offered - I am around this weekend - will be rcboating Sunday and available all next week if you want me to take a look

jerni21

My Feedback: (-1)

hmm not a bad idea to check the woodruff key, i didnt think about that maybe i will try that tommorow, and i did try another plug out of my weed wacker and that didnt fire it either, the compression with the plug in is more than with the plug out so who knows i'll take a look at the key and mess around with it more tommorow, thanks guys hopefully we'll get this figured out

martno1fan

Matt has now offered twice to come help you out with this motor and if i were you id take him up on his kind offer.What he doesnt know about boat motors probably isnt worth knowing,not sure how he is with weedwhackers though but i agree its probably a tuning issue although i would buy a new spark plug too.
Mart

jerni21

My Feedback: (-1)

well Lawhound solved the mystery, it was indeed the flywheel key that sheared, it's just gone, it's kinda weird though because it looks like it was part of the flywheel and not a seperate key so i've been calling around and no one stocks homelite parts, one guy even said they were out of business so i guess i can't get one

Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

glad you found the issue. You might try an ace hardware store or auto supply shop like NAPA who should have key assortments on hand. You will probably want the smallest ones in their case - you may even need to file it down a little to make it fit. Failing that I am sure something could be fabricated to work from a coin, washer or similar.

PEERPSI

Something simple and one of the basics. Glad you found it.

Justaddwata is right if you can't find one find the closest thing and file/grind it to shape. Don't substitute material though as the key is made to shear.

Speaking of that, anyone know where to buy shear bolts for rudders? I was thinking of making some by drilling out standard bolts.

LawHound

Be carefull some of those engines had the key moulded in the flywheel when the flywheel was cast of aluminum if you cannot find a keyway cut in the flywheel you may have one of the one piece ones. you can go with a EI SYSTEM and do away with the flywheel but then you will need to find another way to start the engine. Large electric starter and a belt. there is some weight loss that route but not much. go to all of the small engine repair shops in your area you may get lucky and find the parts you need or you may find another engine to use but if you find another engine trim the plastic more gently to keep the air flow directed over the head to cool it properly. good luck and happy boating Doug.

jerni21

My Feedback: (-1)

yea the flywheel was deffinentaly molded as one piece, you can see where it broke off so i may just go get a new engine and like you said be more careful cutting the plastic i was looking at a ryobi that is 30cc and has a clutch so if i get that one i'll have a little more power and have a clutch which i dont have now so that might be nice, i have tried calling around and checking all the local small engine shops and no one has something to fix it to it will probably just be easier to get the new motor plus i'll be getting a little upgrade, thanks for all your help i'll keep you guys informed

black talon

My Feedback: (5)

not to be a pessimist but i have yet to see a ryobi that have the carb and exhaust in a useable setup.

LawHound

Jerni21 let me look around I may have an old Homi Flywheel that escaped when I was converting weedeaters to airplanes I will try to find one with the key built in and let you know so I can send ir to you. you can also put the flywheel back on the crankshaft line the keyway up and superglue it on and torque the flywheel nut down and run it for a while. Doug.

jerni21

My Feedback: (-1)

i'll have to take a look before i buy it, law hound if you do fine, or don't worry about it if you can't find it, if the ryobi will work, it seems like a sweet deal to have a clutch and a little more power so we'll see what happens

LawHound

Jerni21 I shall attemp to Upload some photos does this look like your flywheel? if so let me know and I will get your snailmail addy and ship it to you one day next week. Doug

LawHound

Jerni21 you can also cut or have a keyway cut in the flywheel if you have someone you know with a small machine shop. you can do it with a set of jewlers files or a cut down Hacksaw blade. if you go the Hacksaw route wrap the handle part with electricians tape or wear some good leather gloves do not make the keyway wider than the one in the crankshaft find a small key that will fit the keyway in the crankshaft and cut and try until you are happy withthe fit. just remember what ever key that you find to fit the crankshaft will be much stronger than the original cast Aluminum one. the next time the crankshaft may break or twist and ruin the shaft. Doug.

jerni21

My Feedback: (-1)

nah that doesnt look like it the little springy things, dont know what they're called, are on the opposite side and the fins are bigger, good idea about cutting a new key in there though

LawHound

Jerni21 I was afraid of that I think this one is off A MAC. I will go to my big shop one day next week and look there. it is about 40 miles away from my home one way I do not visit it very often in these Economic times due to fuel costs. most of my spare parts are stored there. I am pretty sure I have a Homie left that has not been dismanteled at this time. the Ryobi engines usually has the Carb on the back and the exaust on the oposite end but they do have a clutch. you can also get a Mac or Homi with clutch. Carb on one side and exaust on the other side not inline like Ryobi there are many small Engines out there that will work just need to mod and mount them in the boat. Doug.

jerni21

My Feedback: (-1)

so i went out today and bought the ryobi it was $80 and it has the clutch but since i was cheap and thought the powerhead version was the same as the other versions it's only 26cc instead of 30cc but that should be good enough so i spent all day getting the boat ready and working on the motor, had to build new mounts and whatnot, should have it installed tommorow hopefully, i'll try and get some pics after i'm done

jerni21

My Feedback: (-1)

so here she is, started her today and she ran great, even floated it and it's balanced pretty good i know the pics make the motor look like it's really high but it's really not that bad, prob could've been like a 1/2'' lower but it'll be alright









also, any idea on how to adjust those needle on the carb? may have to cut some slots in the unless theres a tool or something

martno1fan

You should have left the shroud on the motor so the air gets directed where its needed .You also need to suport the flex tube near to the end near the motor.
Mart