lewisdf4

Hey guys, I thought I'd post up my woody hull build. Its dougs version 1 48" hull scaled back to 45.4", but I kept the sides a bit taller through the "hump" to help hide the taller than a zen weedy engine (I'll be putting a screen on so it should all but dissapear). All the running gear from my 44" mono will be going into it. The inside is sealed up, so its now onto filling some crappy bits on the outside and covering it in resin. I am also going to run a strip of woven fibre to join the deck to the sides to prevent it ripping away if and when I crash it This is my first attempt at one of these so I hope it turns out okay. I also noticed in another thread people run "splash rails" down the last part of the hull, are these needed and what do they do to aid in the boats performance?? Any help / constructive critisism is welcomed. Thanks in advance.
Cheers, Chris

martno1fan

Chris most usually overlap the side sheets a bit so we can then turn this (chine) area into spray rails,they will stop the boat wanting to roll onto its side in a turn as well as stopping water run up the sides when running etc.I added more spray rails to mine under the deck join towards the rear 1/3rd but that was just an idea i had myself to help keep thinghs dry in rough water,its not needed but it helped i believe but the chine rails are needed.I forgot to overlap mine so added some softwood trangular pieces and then filled and smoothed them so i had a kind of convex curve.If you overlap the sides its easier and all you need then is some filler and a finger .no need to go right up to the bow i stopped 2/3 rd from transom otherwise they can cause digging in in the turns apparently.
Mart
heres my old build thread.
[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5452887/anchors_5452887/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#5452887[/link]

STEVE MARSHALL

Looks good, but I got to say the V at the transom looks a bit deep to me. Compare Marts angles and mine to yours.
Steve

Dreamin Hemi

One more.....remember, this started as a woody......the lower hull was barely altered from the original plans.

lewisdf4

It should be the same. I had the plans printed onto plan paper by the local print flow at 97% of the original size to give me a 45.5" length. I took a photo from the rear, maybe the angle of that shot made it look that way? Either that or the chick that gave me a blank look when I told her what I wanted done stuffed it up somehow. I'll see how it goes anyway. Thanks for the explination Mart, I'll head out to grab some timber to make the spray rails today and am reading you're build thread now
Cheers Guys, Chris.

dwr9

I put a protractor on your picture and it appears the deadrise is right on. Doug

STEVE MARSHALL

Yea that looks better, must have been the angle the photo was taken that made it look wrong.
Steve

martno1fan

Chris looking at that pic it looks right mate ,hope you can sift through my thread and find something usefull .
Mart

lewisdf4

Thanks for the help guys, I'm glad its right 'cos I do not want to build another one! (ever. I sucked at wood work back in school ) Its coming along, its all sealed up, I'm going to fit everything this weekend, to the point that I could run it if I wanted. Then strip I'll it all out and finish / paint the hull. Hope to be running next weekend.
Cheers, Chris

lewisdf4

just about ready to prime tonight. All hardware / radio box / engine and driveshaft were installed and removed. I was so tempted to take it for a spin lol

martno1fan

Looks good Chris,dont forget to seal it with epoxy inside and out not sure you have yet?,i use an old credit card to spread it on the outside almost scraping it all off again in the process so its very thin,makes it easier to sand afterwards.Also cover that radio box with something to deflect the heat from the pipe,some thin ali sheet froma beer can works,just silicone it to the lid.
Mart

lewisdf4

Thanks Mart, yeah its sealed up, I did inside and under the deck before I put it on, then outside and applied the filler from there. Yeah I will definetly be doing that with the radio box, its a plastic lid so it will need it!
Cheers mate. chris

martno1fan

No worries all it needs now is some paint .
Mart

lewisdf4

Well the hull is painted, I still have to flatten it with some 2000 wet and clear it but its getting there. I used a pearl white base, the yellow is a mica metallic left over from my VTR1000 and the windscreen is a gun metal metalic that I mixed myself. I should have it cleared tomorrow then I'll do inside with some underbody flat black and pop all the running gear in. I want it on the water sunday (its friday night here) so I'm running a bit behind []
Cheers, Chris.

DJLaPalme

That hull does not have any strakes on it. Will this cause handling issues? It seems like it will slide out in any turn. It probably works fine I just thought they were required. Dennis

martno1fan

The hull doesnt need strakes in fact this hull is very flighty so if your using a powerfull motor your best not having them.If your worried about sliding in turns then i suggest using turn fins .All the strakes do is create lift and on this design theyre not needed unless your using a weedy motor then they do help .By the way Chris shes looking good mate,id put something on that deck either a design or a number maybe?.
Mart

DJLaPalme

I always thought they were for stability. Thank you for the info martno1fan. Very nice job on the boat Lewis. If it runs as good as it looks you should have a ton of fun with it. Dennis

DJLaPalme

Thank you for pointing out the "Edit" function. I'm not very computer literate. Dennis

martno1fan

No problems mate what so ever but youy can go back and edit your posts yaa know

Minkis815

So is it done? Im a lil excited to see it. Is their a youtube of it as well. i really like your style. not to over the top. Looks Sick!!!

lewisdf4

Thanks Mart, it does need something to break it up. I was thinking some subtle decals. I'll have a play with that when it finished. Thank you Minkis815, but its not finished yet. I have just layed on the clear coats, and the mica / metalic is starting to show. I have to wait for it to go off so I can flaten it with 2000g and polish it. In the mean time I've started to fit everything into the hull. Can anyone suggest a CG for this hull? At the moment its at 27% with the gas bag mounted underneath the engine, and I can bring the bag foward to get a CG of 32% at the most. So I figured run it at 27% and play with it from there?? Thanks in advance,
Cheers, Chris.
P.S. For any aussies that read my last post, I am very confused lol. Its only friday now, last night was thursday [sm=75_75.gif]

martno1fan

You could leave cog where it is and run it usually the higher hp the further forward you want it so for a weedy its ok mind you depends what hp your putting out now?,maybe try 28%or 30%?.
Mart

lewisdf4

I'm not sure on HP, but its spinning an X478 prop at about 14500rpm when its on the pipe (in the red hull anyway). I think I'll try it like you said at 28% and if its too light in the front I can slide the bag foward untill its good I suppose. I can't wait to get it on the water on sunday, Its been 3 weeks since I pulled the engine from the other hull and I'm suffering withdrawels [] Thanks Mart,
Chris

dicko

another way to put weight forward is to cut a slit in your pool noodle & stick some weight in there, then put a zip tie around the noodle to hold the weight in. That's the way I & most of the guys I know do it.

lewisdf4

Everything is in and I'm heading to the quarry in the morning for its first run. I hope to get about 4 hours on the water so I should get it setup and running well. It will be interesting to see what it goes like compared to the shallow vee I was running.
Cheers, Chris