PROP WORK
08-17-2009, 01:28 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: sydney nsw, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
PROP WORK
looking to buy a x472 prop..seller says prop is de tounged..thinned and d cut....can any body tell what these mods are please.and how much differenceis it to a standard x472 ...bob
08-17-2009, 04:44 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 3,507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PROP WORK
De-tounged means the lobe that points out towards the front of the prop has been removed to help unload the prop.
Thinned means that the blades have had material removed to make them thinner & lighter.
D cut (i think your mean B or Bar cat) means that a groove has been cut on the trailing edge of the prop next to the hub to help the prop unload at high rpm.
It sounds like a good prop if the price is right.
Thinned means that the blades have had material removed to make them thinner & lighter.
D cut (i think your mean B or Bar cat) means that a groove has been cut on the trailing edge of the prop next to the hub to help the prop unload at high rpm.
It sounds like a good prop if the price is right.
08-17-2009, 04:57 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 3,507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PROP WORK
Picture 1 - bar cut prop
Picture 2 - de tongued (2 blader) vs non de-tongued (3 blader)
Picture 3 a thinned, bar cut prop with cup added and ears (point tips) removed (made of cobalt chrome, not stainless). This is an excellent sport hydro prop, my favourite.
Picture 2 - de tongued (2 blader) vs non de-tongued (3 blader)
Picture 3 a thinned, bar cut prop with cup added and ears (point tips) removed (made of cobalt chrome, not stainless). This is an excellent sport hydro prop, my favourite.
08-17-2009, 05:30 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: sydney nsw, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PROP WORK
hey dicko....thanks for the info...i was definatly told D cut..but it could be a typo...i ran a 472 in a weedy mono and it was the best prop i have tried but unfortunatly i only borrowed the prop..i saw this one for sale and wondered if it resembled the original..oh its 45 bucks us....bob
08-17-2009, 05:52 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 3,507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PROP WORK
You couldn't get the mods done for that price. It's always good to add another prop to the prop box. It sounds like a good prop. If there's no damage to it, it's not a bad price. Check for cracks near the hub, dents or chips on the blades & that the trailing edges of the blades are lined up straight. If they look off it's a sign the prop has hit something & is out of whack.
With the mods done to it, that prop should rev out easier than a stock X472.
With the mods done to it, that prop should rev out easier than a stock X472.
08-17-2009, 05:26 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Climax Springs,
MO
Posts: 737
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PROP WORK
How do you De-Tongue a prop? How do you know how much tongue to remove? I can see De-tongueing a prop, but what does the Bar cut do for your performance?
08-17-2009, 11:52 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Oromocto,
NB, CANADA
Posts: 2,882
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: PROP WORK
ORIGINAL: Dockman
How do you De-Tongue a prop? How do you know how much tongue to remove? I can see De-tongueing a prop, but what does the Bar cut do for your performance?
How do you De-Tongue a prop? How do you know how much tongue to remove? I can see De-tongueing a prop, but what does the Bar cut do for your performance?
its all about trial and error.
here is some reading that you may enjoy and should help you out.
you will also find the answer to backcutting/barr cut.
http://rcboat.com/prop.htm
Dan.
