chief3452

Hey Stacked, painting is the harderst part of building in my opinion, it's all good. Sounds like you must have used lacquer based clear over your enamel paint job. Your paint job looked great btw, but how do you feel about leaving it natural wood? You are already halfway there, just sand off the paint and coat it with epoxy...go play, bang it up and maybe paint it later. Just a thought.

stackeddeck

Yea thats a good idea... The clear is lacquer.. I didn't think the dupli color metal fleck was enamel though.. Right now its just sanded down smooth.. still a ton of red on it... I don't know what I'll do... after I epoxied the boat it was rough and after about 4 days was still sticky untill I painted over it... Can I put some kind of varnish on top of the raw wood?

chief3452

If you still have alot of red paint on the boat it might be best to try a repaint. Maybe do the stripes and clearcoat after you go have some fun with it. From what I understand when it comes to lacquer paint the mantra is "thin to win". If you spray it too thick the solvent will lift the paint underneath just like stripper. Apply everything in light coats and resist the temptation to go for a smooth as glass finish and you should be fine. Just one letter seperates paint from pain, haha...ain't it fun?

stackeddeck

haha yea. I got some more paint... and when I sanded it I down the wood bottom got red stains all over it.. so I bought some cream white to paint over that.. i will Re coat the red and prime and then put cream on the bottom... Then I will think about the clear and pin stripes... By the way.. will the boat be ok without the clear?

stackeddeck

ok... put primer on bottom and sanded then just applied another coat. will sand it and prime once more...

stackeddeck

oh by the way thanks kriscros

mymammushouse

np. i would clear coat it

stackeddeck

yea I just put the cream on the cream on the bottom and it looks great! It looks really nice alongside the red.. once the cream dries really well i will mask it off and finish repairing the red metal flake... so far the repair process has turned out to be for the better of the boat

stackeddeck

put the red on ... looks nice but could use more... I'm gonna just clear coat over it and get this baby in the water... It doesnt look quite as nice as before but it will have to work... Wish me luck on the clear coat.. (by the way I painted the transom cream because I ran out of red lol... looks good though.. its like the fiberglass yachts with teak transoms.. you get it

pics later

LawHound

Hi Stacked First of all never paint at night or under low light conditions, unless you are in a brightly lighted Spray Booth. I am not sure the clear that you were using is Compatible with the paint you sprayed on the Boat. If I remember Correctly you said that the clear you were going to use was Laquer that is probably not compatible with the paint you used. the next time you paint spray a piece of scrap wood with your Paint then after it Dries spray some of the Clear you are going to use on the boat and watch to see if it lifts or bubbles the paint if it does either it is not fully dry or it is not compatible with the Base coat(Color). Doug.

stackeddeck

Thanks Doug. The clear I used is lacquer but its the same brand (Dupli color) as the metal flake paint.. It would make no sense that the two wouldnt work together because that was the only clear coat I saw that was made by that brand. And I was just trying to save my decals because they were peeling up... I coated the boat with red and cream and it looks good butnot great.. I might try the clear coat... Can anyoen tell me if I MUST have the clear coat on top?

dicko

You don't have to have clear on top, but putting a good fuel proof clear coat over a rattle can paint job can stop the paint lifting when you spill fuel on it.

LawHound

Hi Stacked the Problem is that Laquer and Paint are two different Products and are not normally Compatible the formulation of Laquer has Chemicals that cause's Paint to soften bubble and lift after it dries almost like Paint remover. no you do not need to clear coat your paint but as was mentioned in the earlier post if you spill Gasoline on the paint it will cause lifting softening bubbling or Fading/staining of your paint. Gasoline and Rattle cans do not mix. sorry I wish I had better help for you than the Negative answers that I have given you. Doug.

stackeddeck

its alright.. I put a tiny bit of clear on it... I have mounted all the hardware except the pushrods.. the radio gear is still being sorted.. trying to cut flex cable at the moment

stackeddeck

Hey everyone, the boat is ready for action... Both the servos turn the rudder/carb arm very well...the radio works well except for when I plug up the failsafe that I bought the throttle servo no longer works.... I will figure that out...
The engine is in place and the fuel tank and fuel lines are situated very nicely...
All the water cooling looks great.. I created a water pick up from a brass tube.. there are pics of it..
Everything is good except The flex cable and stuff.. The drive dog won't tighten down on the smooth part of the flex cable and I can't get the collet to tighten down on the flex cable... When I shove the flex cable way down in the collet it won't tighten down.. if I don't push it down in the collet much it won't stay in after I tighten it. I don't understand it. By the way the muffler is really high in the pics.. Ilowered it some a few minutes ago.. And I put foam in the radio box.. will take pics of the radio box later.. looks real nice.. anyway.. thats the plan

thanks!

oops technical difficulties will upload pics in a bit

LawHound

Stacked your Build and Paint job came out very nice. now be sure to get Vid's of you running it and post them on here. Doug.

stackeddeck

I will if it floats...

mymammushouse

vick, everything turned out nice. do you have the insert in, in the collet?

could i get a pick of your collet on the engine? and i dont understand how you cant tighten an allen screw on the drive dog

also before you go out and drive it, please place floatation on the sides of the rails and in the fron of the boat. u can use pool noddles from walmart or kmart or anywhere else

stackeddeck

Thanks. The bow is solid pool noodle. I couldn't get an allen wrench to fit perfectly out of like 3 sets... a few fit but when it go tight they would slip...the drive dog never would tighten on the flex.. I will try to get more pics of the collet tomorrow

leebart121

your paint job turned out great. I think it is as good as the first one.
When you say you were trying to save your decals was that after you sprayed your clear or before?
If before any clear was sprayed and your decals were lifting that means your paint was not dry yet and was still releasing cemicals as it dried.
If after clear was sprayed it was because of the cemical in the paint and clear being uncompatible.
I like your paint job, and like Steelers For Life I hope when I get to the point of painting my boat it turns out as nice as yours.

dwr9

If the Allen key doesn't fit right in the set screw You are using the wrong type of Allen key. It may be a metric screw and you will need a metric hex key. Also you should file a flat spot on the shaft where the set srew will hit it so the drive dog can't spin or move. The water pickup you made looks like it extends quite far under the hull. That will slow you down considerably and will also affect the handling of the boat. If you want to use it move it up til only the tip is below the bottom of the boat. Personally I only use one pickup in the rudder and it cools just fine in an open boat. The flex shaft should be pushed all the way into the collet until it hits and can't go in any further. You need to leave about a 1/4 inch space between the drive dog and the end of the drive. Doug

nooh

Hi Stacked.

Follow Doug's advice and you will be nearly there, The Boat looks great and you done well, Painting is the most hardest part of the build, funny hey but it is well for some good luck on your maiden stacked..

stackeddeck

Thanks Doug! I will work on that.. I understand how the drive dog works now.. as for the collet when I pushed it all the way back and then moved the front part of the collet back on I couldn't get it to screw down on anymore.. like the flex was to big and the threads would no longer match up on the collet.. I don't know

Thanks so much!

stackeddeck

Ok I think I need a new flex cable... I won't have enough room to put the drive dog 1/4 from the stinger.. But the end is coming unraveled.. (the only thing I could find that would cut it was some bolt cutter which kind of messed up the end) and the end will hardly fit into the collet... its a major bummer... Does anyone know if Hobby Town USA sells flex cables?

LawHound

Hi Vick you can not cut the Drive cable with Bolt Cutters as you have Discovered. you need a Dremmel with a Hi speed Cutoff wheel or a 1/4 inch Die Grinder with a Hi Speed cutoff Wheel the Bolt cutters Crush the Cable whereas the Dremmel or Die Grinder will cut it off Cleanly just make sure you wear Eye Protection and Gloves keep the Cutter straight so you will have a straight end on the drive cable when you cut it off. also if you are using a 1/4 inch drive Cable if you have a Small engine repair shop near you where they repair Lawn equipment you can go there and see if they have some Weed Eaters that has been dropped off for repairs and never picked up in the trash Pile the Weed Eaters have a 1/4 inch drive Cable in them that can be cut down and make fine Drive Shafts.