jasonmNZ

Well I ordered my hardware and the first lot arrived today. I was expecting the strut to come with bushings, but not so. What sort of bushing should I use? Ive seen the lead teflon bushings here, but these don't have a thrust surface like these (bottom of page) brass ones do. Would the aluminium strut with lead teflon and some thrust washers be ok? I have some octura hardened steel and nylon washers, would they work?

Thanks,
Jason

jasonmNZ

The rest of my hardware arrived yesterday. I was disapointed to find that the prop I ordered has a 5mm hub, not 1/4". It was meant to be anoctura x478prop but camein a CPV Racing bag and is not stamped octura.I've heard some people say its OK todrill a prop out, butI just don't know how to clamp the thing and get the hole dead centre.I am considering sending it back and gettinga 1/4" prather 280 in stainless steel.

I've donea lot of sanding on the boat and the front section is now coming up nicely. I am thinking of making a small sanding block matching the angle between the sides and the chine to get a nice straight transition from the chine to thehull.

I did some work for my landlord over the weekend and he gave me a lot of aluminium section offcuts, angle, channel and bar - should come in handy extending the stand-offs.

jasonmNZ

I cut down the engine rails and swapped around the engine mounts (thanks Mart!!). Also had a second round of faring compound on the hull and managed to get it all pretty straight and smooth. I decided to keep the octura prop as a spare and order a prather S280 (I'll turn a new shaft to suit the octura later).

I also sorted out a place for the fuel tank to sit, just need to make up a small cradle to secure it now.

What do you think of my idea for a screen? I'm not sure how I'll make it, too tight to bend the ply I have. Any ideas??

leebart121

try some very thin burch and steam it tell it forms around it. you might make a solid wood frame and soak a thin peace of wood in water and then clamp it to the frame and let it dry so that it is that shape.

jasonmNZ

Thanks leebart, sounds like its worth a go! I'll have a look around the timber stores here and see if I can find some. I've been shocked by the cost of wood - might just end up making a square shaped screen if its all too expensive!

leebart121

you could also make it out of balsa and reinforce it with fibergas or even make it out of fiber glass using a cut up soda or beer can to make the desired shape.
a lot of people have made them and you can probibly find many different ways of doing it by simply typing in a key word in the forum search area, but I could be wrong.

jasonmNZ

thanks again leebart, My dad had suggested the balsa too. I also considered finding a plastic bucket of the right diameter to form the shape. I have no experience with fibreglass as yet, but I guess theres only one way to learn!! I'll have a search through the forum too.

Jason

leebart121

JASON,

I AM NOT GOOD AT FIRBERGLASSING THINGS AS WELL. I AM STILL TRYING TO FIND ALL THE RIGHT WOOD FOR MY PROJECT BOAT AND THE CORRECT EQUIPMENT TO CUT IT ALL OUT. I TRIED TO CUT ALL MY 1/4 BOARD FOR MY BOAT WITH A ELECTRIC HAND SCROWL SAW AND THAT MADE A MESS OF ONE SIDE OF EVERY THING. SO BACK TO PRINTING OUT MY BLUE PRINTS ONCE MORE AND TRYING IT AGAIN WITH SOMETHING ELSE. IT IS HARD TO FIND 1/8 PLY WHERE I LIVE AND SO I MAY END UP USING SOMETHING ELSE.
YOU COULD USE THE COUNTERTOP WOOD VENEER. THAT IS THIN AND WOULD FLEX TO THE SHAPE YOU WANT.
IF YOU DO NOT MIND ME ASKING WERE DID YOU GET YOUR HARDWEAR AND ABOUT HOW MUCH DID IT COST YOU IN US DOLLARS?

LEE

jasonmNZ

Hi Lee,

Strut, rudder, prop shaft, prather S280 prop, thrust washers, drive dog, ferrule and prop nut set me back$185 NZD (around $130 to$140 USD). I purchased all the parts online from HPM, Foamworksand Hobby Smart(All based in NZ).

I just used a small tenon saw (on a steep angle so just the tip of the saw is in the cut)to cut out the parts to the stage in the photo attached (I also cut the slots using the tenon saw). It worked well, wasn't fast but gave a nice clean smooth cut. I cut everything oversize and plenty of sanding to get it right.

Jason

martno1fan

Hi Jason did you manage to change the prop yet ? if not i would,dont drill out the other one The boat looks great and the motor sits better now too,for the screen you could ise some poly caarbonate sheet heated with aheat gun over a former made from foam and shape it as desired.Or as i did use plywood,have a look at mine on my old thread see what you think and feel free to copy it.One thing i would say though is if your motor is going to be air cooled your screen is going to stop the air flow so you will need to cut an opening in it for the air.
Mart

martno1fan

Found some pics for you first ones of Dougs screen the rest are of mine,hope they help.I used some thicker ply blocks to support the screen from behind here and there just epoxied in place,worked well nice and strong.
Mart

jasonmNZ

Thanks Mart!

I've had a real good look through your build and bently/steves build thread. It's my first place to look when I'm wondering what to do or looking for inspiration. I decided on the curved screen as my design has no shape in the deck of the boat, but as I said to lee, I might end up doing something more like yours if I decide the curved screen is one for the too hard basket!

I was under the impression that the flywheel/centrifugal air pump on the weedy sucked air in around the crank case and pushed it out through the casing and over the cooling fins (i.e toward the bow of the boat when mounted). So, if air was allowed to force in from the front of the boat it would be working against the air pump...??? Is this why you put the scoop on yours?

As for the prop, I ordered a prather S280 with 1/4" hub and I am keeping the octura as a spare. I've managed to get hold of some 1/4" stainless to turn a shaft to suit the octura. I thought this way I'll have another prop option to try.

Thanks again Mart,

Jason

martno1fan

The flywheel on its own isnt enough cooling air in my opinion,the motor is working very hard and gets very hot.It still needs the air to get in there somehow,it all helps keep it cooled.That is why i installed the scoop orriginally but i since realised it wasnt needed as the opening on mine was quite large and the top of the motor was just above the screen so air was getting to it anyway.

jasonmNZ

Mart, I haven't decided what to do with the screen yet, but I am leaning towards doing an angled (rather than curved screen) and making it a little lower to allow air flow - probably something like steve marshalls.

A little more progress on the hull.The engine rails and the side seams are now all reinforced with glass and I've mocked up a cradle to hold the fuel tank out of angle.

jasonmNZ

I've finally had some time to get some more done on the boat. The deck is now on and I've made an opening for the radio box I'm making. I decided to add a bit of shape to the deck by extending the forward bulkheads up to form curved tops - I think its come up quite well, not a lot of shape but just enough. I also made some servo mounts from aluminium angle and have been workning away sharpening and balancing the prop. There are a few pits on the prop which I haven't yet removed as I don't want to change the prop pitch by removing material too unevenly. Hopefully I canget a little more done over the next week or two.

Jason

carprigger38

My Feedback: (6)

Looking realy good Jason!

Tim

jasonmNZ

A little more progress the past couple of days.I have thefirst two coats of epoxy on the hull and deck, and the radio box is now made and fits snugly - just the lid to go.

leebart121

looing great

carprigger38

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Jason ,..the natural wood grain really came out in your deck! Thats looking great,cant wait to get to that stage.

Tim

jasonmNZ

I got mostly everything mounted today, spent a long time drilling the engine mount holes in the stringers as well as two holes for the throttle cable mount. It took a long time to sort out the arrangement for the steering servo and linkage. I think I've found the best arrangement - the holes are drilled now, so I'll geuss i'll just run with this and if I have any steering problems I'll have to change. I also sanded down the hull today and have just put another coat of resin all over. I've started to bend the stuffing tube to fit, but I've found it very difficult to check the alignment of the tube with the engine's drive shaft as the plastic I've left on the cowling is blocking my view.

martno1fan

Hi Jason looking good m8,one thing id suggest is install the flex into the tube that will help to align things also id put the shroud back on the engine as thats what feeds the air to the flywheel fins.Love the natural wood look,you could also mask off round the deck edge and spray some paint to enhance it more just an idea but top job she looks great.Look forward to hearing how she runs with the ride pad on the keel.
Mart

jasonmNZ

Thanks Mart, I'll give the flex cable a go. I haven't decided what to do with paint yet, I am thinking of running it without any paint to begin with. It will definitely need some paint though as the toothpick dowels I used are noticable and I didn't bother measureing them when I drilled them - just put them where they were needed for fixing during gluing. As for the shroud on the engine - what you see is all there is on this one. The yellow cowling forms the pump housing and the inlet and exhaust gaskets are oversize and direct the air flow over the cooling fins - anything to cut costs I guess!! 

I'm looking forward to the first (and second and so on) run too! I've been trying to workout where I am allower to run a gas boat here. There are a lot of rivers around here but I am hesitant to run there as I don't have a decent rescue boat. The largest pond I know of here has been drained since our big earthquake and no signs of filling it up any time soon. There are also a lot of lakes with brackish water but I just don't like the idea of running in salt water! Gotta get the boat ready before any of that matters though!!

Jason

martno1fan

Dont worry about salt water its what i run in,just remember to wash things down well and spray everything mechanical with wd40 or similar,remove flex and clean and regrease after each run as allways and you wont have any problems.
Mart

jasonmNZ

Thanks Mart, that should make finding a spot a little easier!

jasonmNZ

Well, with the help from my Dad, I got the stuffing tube cut and mounted, flex cable cut (which I epoxied it into the ferrule - couldn't get enough heat to solder) and got everything mounted and sealed. Anxious to give the boat a run I flagged the radio box lid and decided to give the boat a run and seal the radio box withduct-tape for now. The only pond I could find which was not drained was very small and, having only run a slow electric cat before, managed to nearly crash on my first run (killed the engine in time). Then on the second run the engine died - time for a swim!! The third and fourth runs both resulted in me putting the boat into the bank.... No damage though, I can feel a couple of small marks along the chine - feeling very lucky. Both crashes resulted from the very reduced ability to turn left which I'm just not used to. For the final runI just took it very easy goin round and round to begin with slowly. Anyway here's a couple of pics and a link to the video!

It looks like it could do with more weight toward the rear or the prop trimmed up to lift the bow - and I really need to find somewhere with more room!!!!

Jason

Heres the video
www.youtube.com/watch