Hi to all. Iam new to boats and new to this forum. I have a MVD that dies in the waterr shortly after it gets up to plane. Any suggestions?

how hot is it getting, are you getting water cooling, make sure your lines are not clogged, what fuel. prop and plug.

welcome! sounds lean mixture,

Yep I'd say lean, stays running before the engine unloads, it's turning a much lower rpm before it gets on plane so it isn't really starving for fuel, as soon as the engine unwinds it starts sucking in way more air, thats when it goes lean and dies. Turn out the needle a 1/4 turn and try it, it it acts the same make sure there is no congealed oil in the needle assembly of the carb, no leaks in the exhaust pressure or feed lines, should be no bubbles in the line from the tank to the carb when the engine is running. Check the inside of the tank if the problem persists, sometimes the brass tubes in the tank do crack.
I replace all my silicone fuel lines every spring, cheap and avoids potential problems, check the tanks over the winter, couple of years ago I found the remains of a spider and its web in a tank, would have really messed up a days running if I hadn't noticed it, it would have been the very last place I'd have looked for a problem because I would have had to pull the engine to get the tank out!
I've laughed at some of my nitro buggy buddies, with the flip top tanks and squeeze bottle fillers, fuel bottle lying on its side in the dirt, stuff all over the tip and they stick it in the tank and fill it up! Then complain when the engine won't stay running! Can't see the bottom of the tank through the dirt! clunk plugged solid!
You probably just need to richen it up a bit, unless it's completely worn out, then a piston and sleeve will set you back up, and cheap as well.
If it's new and all stock just go over the fuel lines make sure nothing got kinked somehow, these things are kinda finicky until they get broken in. I prefer to break in my engine on the water under load but I've got a fair bit of experience, For the first bunch of attempts at running a new boat I spend a lot of time paddling after stalled boats. I'd give it a good few starts and short runs at home dry, they will not instantly overheat and seize, if water sizzles off the head right away its too hot. you can rig up a gallon jug to cool it at home if your worried about it. Let it cool right down between runs, get a good few heat cool cycles into it.
Try a 1/4 turn out on the needle and check the lines.

Thanks to all who replied and the welcome mat. OK another question....how do you adjust the strut......when I lossen the bolt...it moves up and down....but the manual says to move it back and forth....it does....but just barely. Am I missing something here?

Not familiar with that boat but up and down is the normal strut adjustment for a hydro. Not sure how you would move it back and forth and maintain a proper drive gap between the drive dog and strut!
By back and forth they might mean being able to change the angle of the strut, this you only want a couple of degrees of adjustment, to tilt the prop up or down a little bit.

on the strut angle you need to find Neutral First. Remove flex shaft and set the boat on a table where the turn fin can hang off the side of the table, so only the Sponsons and Strut are touching the table, then adjust the strut so the bottom of it sits Flat on the table, and about 1\2" from bottom of strut to bottom of boat. I use a Razor knife to scratch a mark across the strut at the top of the Strut Bracket so you have that as a reference point when trying to adjust it later. You will only be putting up to 5* pitch in either direction Max, usually only 1* or 2*.

The strut will only move a little front to back but it doesn't take much, Little Changes make Big Differences on Little Boats, I will often take the dremal and open up the Bottom of the slot on the strut to a Key Hole shape to give a little more wiggle room. It normally takes Both hands to adjust, you have to Force the stuffing tube to Flex by holding the bottom of the strut with a couple fingers and Pushing or Pulling the Top of the strut with your Thumb, and Hold it in place while you tighten it with the other hand.

Also you need to adjust Strut Depth, they Do Not set that at the factory they just bolt it on. The 2 blade props run a little deeper than the 3 blade props but both are meant to run very close to the surface of the water. The 2 blade will run somewhere around 3\4" to 5\8" from bottom of boat to bottom of strut, and the 3 blade will run closer to 1\2" from bottom of boat to bottom of strut.
If your having trouble turning the prop and getting up on plane good then Raise the Strut 1\8" and try it again until you find it's Sweet Spot. If the prop is Slipping a lot in the turns or trying to launch then Drop the strut 1\8" and try that.

Yep, that puppy is lean. What percent nitro /type fuelare you running ?

I think that I have finallyfound the tune on my MVD. I turned the High Speed Needle in full and thenbacked out 2 1/2 turns. This has put me right at the sweet spot and just making very minute movements with needle. Low Speed Needle started flush and turned in 1/4 turn and pinch tested. I run Byrons 40%/9% andadded Castor to up the oil %. As amax stated, move your strut up to 3/4" and start there.amax gave me the same advise and it does make a BIG difference. I have gotten my best runs using the grimracer 36 x 55 shapened and balanced prop.

You are in the right spot for information. Don't be shy and ask questions. You will get some very informative answers.I am still a noob, but learning everyday.