Hydro Junkie

I have to agree with Amax on this one, not a story we want to bring up as it was beyond messy

Johnwhite84

That explanation only makes me more curious! I will leave it alone tho since it seems to be a touchy subject.

On a side note, I'm looking into racing a few sanctioned races next season but have no idea where to find info.

toyotatruckin

go to the IMPBA website OR NAMBA site and read up on racing toss either of those in the search engine and youll find the site quick-
Next note on the proboat hydro IF IF IF done correctly you can remove the TRIPLETS and not add weight, just have to watch what your doing, but Ill give ya a little hint- the proboat hydro while it looks good and can be made to run decent it wont CG out correctly unless you add a bunch of weight to the very furthest forward part of the hull and that is actually counter productive

Johnwhite84

The purpose of this buld is just to see how far things can go befor a new hull is needed. I do plan on possible building my own wood hull kit but i have yet to decide on a specific kit. I figure all my experiementation should be done on a less expensive hydro rather then muck up another possible great boat.

toyotatruckin

Good way to think about it and modding RTR's are a perfect place to start tinkering with what can be and cant be done at a decent cost.

Hydro Junkie

Okay Yota, where's the picture of your pink boat? You know you want to show it to him

Johnwhite84

I had a few hours to do a little more work tonight. First I filled the small holes where the uprights were with Quantum One premium polyester filler. It is a lightweight ONE step process. It took TWO coats to finalize the repair. One full coat, one skim coat. I then taped off the surrounding areas and used a light filler primer to fill any imperfections. I used as little as possible to try and keep the weight down. I did not prime the entire boat for two reasons. 1- the rest of the boat is not prepped 2- body filler will absorb moisture and contaminate the bond if it is not covered by a topcoat.

The picture of my mixing board was taken to show my wast. You would think paying for my own materials at top dollar I would be a little more frugal with my application.

I applied two small sections of fiberglass. One was to repair the holes where I slipped and went through the hull with my dremel. This was done while cutting out a section of stringer.
The second was the first layer that will sandwich the backplate for my turnfin. I probably shouldnt have done this but I added a small peice of wood to help strengthen the turn fin. I can only imagain how much pressure is forced on the turn fin at 35 MPH turning hard.

Any questions or comments please feel free. This is my learning process.

Hydro Junkie

There's noting wrong with adding a backer to the sponson transom. Make sure it's fastened really well, drill it and add SS blind nuts before adding any more glass inside. I never build a boat without making sure the right sponson transom is heavy enough to handle the stress. That's something I learned from my first two boats

toyotatruckin

Pink boats a vegas Hj, dont need to get your blood pressure up with the pics your thinking of lol lookin like your doing ok so far

Hydro Junkie

DARN THE BAD LUCK, HE'S ON TO ME

res3567

AAAAAAAHHHHHH yes......pant.....huff.....I'm having trouble breathing........LOL!!!!!!

Hydro Junkie

Actually, the boat's paint and set up was what I was refering to Yota. The model isn't really my type, might be due to the lack of a petticoat

toyotatruckin

well its a vegas but here I dug up a picture for ya

dont mind the tape lines inside lol cowl on POOF gone

added a stuffing box to it (for removable stuffing tube) and dropped the stuffing tube size as small as .150 cable will allow (stuffing tube itself was drilled and sleeve soldered over that to act as the bearing) and yes the stuffing tube was bent like that on purpose and worked quite well

Hydro Junkie

Now that's why I wanted you to post some pictures, Yota, that shows how clean of set up is possible in a RTR rework

res3567

What a work of art.......

Johnwhite84

Can anyone recommend an adjustable strut? I was on the Novarossi website (planning my whiplash kit build) and saw they have a decent selection for a reasonable price.

Johnwhite84

Ok guys I need your help. I'm getting ready to lay my back plate in for my turn fin. I don't want to slap it in there and be counter productive. Can someone post a close up picture of where and at what angle to mount it.

toyotatruckin

Here is a custom bracket and fin I made a guy to help hold his 21 bud boat( he reported back that it works perfect HJ) the fin has approximately a 5* bend in the blade and the bracket is adjustable so it can be tucked more than 5* if needed

Hydro Junkie

Are you trying to tell me something Yota?

toyotatruckin

nothing other than what I said above, quit trying to look for hidden meanings lol

Hydro Junkie

I wouldn't do that. You should know me better than that by now

Johnwhite84

The ol lady got mad at me last night so I went to the gerage and completly prepped it out for paint. It was a pain in the butt keeping the holes clean for the turn fin.

toyotatruckin

Rebuilding rc boats is often more work and can be harder than building a new boat, BUT the pay-off in the end is satisfying (usually lol) Keep up with the effort youll be glad you did when your done, keep posting progress to people like seeing things take shape!

Johnwhite84

Decided I needed more room between the engine and my fuel cell. Instead of purchasing a new soft tank I decided to reshape my original tank. I removed the wood brackets that originally held the fuel tank in to make room. I dont have a heat gun so I used my kitchen stove burner and a metal spoon to shape the corners. Now i have gained about 3/4 of an inch more room for my hump back pack. 6V baby! Also a better CG since the fuel is further up and the battery is up front.

Here is a tip if you plan on trying to reshape your own fuel cell. Once the plastic starts turning clear take away the heat because its about to melt. Always reshape the plastic with somthing very smooth so the plastic dosnt stick. Always pressure test your tank when your finished or you will be chasing a tuning problem that dosnt exist.

Hydro Junkie

Now that's a different way to do a reshape. Not sure I'd get away with in in my house with a smooth top stove and the nylon/plastic utensils.