Engine aliment help
#3

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From: Augusta,
KS
Actually harder to see the large pics BUT it looks as though the stuffing tube needs to be bent down or the engine needs to come up side to side looks fine, also might think on ditching that Teflon liner.. might also ask if your trying to be he-man tightening that collet and will add that an octura flex-hex is 10x better to usemy 2 cents
#4
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From: Pearland,
TX
here can i get flex hex and i have tryed to bend it down with ne luck and i tryed to use wahers to raise the motor but it is to much
#6

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From: Augusta,
KS
Why ditch the liner, for one- drag do a test if you like, new teflon liner and new shaft no grease spin it, now same cable no grease in a brass tube spin again results will speak for themselves, second is they do wear out when they wear they become thinner (will wear thin usually where cable rides in a bend) after time that area becomes weak what can happen is they will bind up twist and wad up inside the tube itself sometimes taking an act of god to get it out ive seen a case where the stuffing tube had to be replaced as everything got so bound up there was no other way of removing it, this does not happen all the time and may never happen but can and has so why keep a possible problem in place. running brass only is the most common way out there and you do need to grease the shaft but hey you were greasing the teflon liner to
#7
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From: Indianapolis,
IN
Hey Superflyboy,
You can raise the engine with flat washers under the isolation rubbers on your enging mount. Something else you can do to increase the life of your flexshaft is purchase the SV27 flywheel and collet. The stock steel flywheel is difficult to re-install and make run true, which could be contributing to your shaft failure issues.
You can raise the engine with flat washers under the isolation rubbers on your enging mount. Something else you can do to increase the life of your flexshaft is purchase the SV27 flywheel and collet. The stock steel flywheel is difficult to re-install and make run true, which could be contributing to your shaft failure issues.
#8

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From: Augusta,
KS
Hey good catch chief-hes 100% correct on that flywheel being almost impossible to get to run true, I did a test between several aqua steel flywheels on my lathe and the only way I could get one to run true was spin and adjust till I got it correct, not 1 time did I chuck one up and have it run worth a spit on the first shot (usually not the second or third either) I even tried other brass cones and mix and match-no difference
#9
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From: Indianapolis,
IN
Ya Toyota, those stock flywheels are junk. I found out the hard way too, and wasted an entire afternoon in the process, trying to get one to run true. Superflyboy just go to Tower Hobbies and order the SV27 flywheel and collet. It is by far the best setup for the Vegas. Oh, and don't forget to always leave an 1/8th inch gap between your prop drive dog and the strut when you intsall your flexshaft after maintenance. Good Luck,
Scott
Scott
#16
Take engine out .. pull teflon-liner out for 4" (or so) ,
stick a drill with the right size in the brass tube for 2" ,
lean on the other end of the drill , with enough weight/pressure the brass will bend.
stick a drill with the right size in the brass tube for 2" ,
lean on the other end of the drill , with enough weight/pressure the brass will bend.
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From: Houston,
TX
Thanks for all of ya'lls info. We ran yesterday...and it was windy...and a cold front was moving through. Both boats were acting up a bit....would start off strong, and then bog down a bit. Then it started getting colder....then it got rainy cloudy, then we packed it up and barely got out in time as the rain came pouring down....now it is cold here in Southeast TX. Flyboy's flexshaft was still in great shape after about 8-10 runs. Looks like he got it right.



