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go .18 parts

Old 12-04-2011, 02:50 PM
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andybenton
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Default go .18 parts

hey im looking for a rear crankcase cover for a go .18 rear exhaust, im looking for one to elliminate my pull starter.

if anyone has any leads to where i can get one, i would appriciate it.

i checked ebay, didnt see any there.

thanks again, Andy
Old 12-04-2011, 08:37 PM
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jmy2u
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Default RE: go .18 parts

I believe this one will fit.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGMN0&P=SM
Old 12-04-2011, 08:58 PM
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Default RE: go .18 parts

I dont believe the back plate off of an OS engine will fit the GO 18 case, the holes line up but the center part that goes into the block is to big for the GO engine case by a little, adam or rob was where my last solid GO back plate went I know fact the TZ solid plate will not fit and I believe the other solid plate I have here is off of a CVRM and it also dont fit

Also might add from talking to adam who has modded the GO to its limit that leaving the pull start on the motor is better than running with-out, I could explain it all but if adam sees the post he can give you first hand info on it
Old 12-05-2011, 06:20 AM
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Default RE: go .18 parts

You may be able to contact [link=http://www.go-engine-usa.com/]Go Engine USA[/link] and find one,, or Mark Lyde( sorry I don't have his info handy) he is the Marine Dealer but I don't think he keeps any of the .18 stuff around.

If you run the engine with No pull start it Will have a much shorter life. It will give you a little better throttle response and mid range but not much more Top End. The Go .18 has the same issue the CVRM .18 has when running Non pull Start, The Crank and Pin aren't built strong enough to handle the load we put on them in a Marine Application, with out the support of the 1-way bearing Housing or insert in the case of the O.S.
The Rod pushing down on a crank pin that's only supported on 1 side Will Flex the pin and the crank Disk to the point it starts digging into the back plate, then it's OVER,, if it makes it That far. The 1-way bearing\insert not only gives the crank pin Vertical Support but Lateral support also. If the crank disk has No room to flex laterally then more of the force is focused vertically on the pin which is where it should be.

I'm doing 50mph with the pull start on and completely functional. Just Sayin
Old 12-05-2011, 10:38 AM
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Default RE: go .18 parts

if  there was any advice on this forum i would take, it would be from the two of you, lol. i was only asking because im dropping it in my JAE and i didnt really want it flapping in the wind going down the pond lol

thanks for the advice, ill just deal with it untill i can get a good novarossi
Old 12-05-2011, 12:23 PM
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Default RE: go .18 parts

andy it will be a little differant with the JAE becuase you don't have As Much load on it, BUT I haven't run my JAE yet so I can't say For Sure. You can remove the rope from the starter and leave the rest installed. The only place I have seen the stock blank back plate is from on eBay installed on the engines from HK. That's where I got mine.
Old 12-05-2011, 04:07 PM
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andybenton
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Default RE: go .18 parts

well, its winter here, and it wont be long till the water starts getting hard, so keep me updated on how well it works on yours.

ill propabably go ahead and remove the rope, and just use it that way, but the extra space wouldve been nice.


what flywheel are you guys using on this engine, i thought the one from the os .18 would do, or the aquacraft.

i dont suppose it matters a great deal
Old 12-06-2011, 06:42 AM
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Default RE: go .18 parts

I use one similar to the brass Pro Boat flywheel that I made myself. But the others should work also.
Old 12-06-2011, 01:21 PM
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andybenton
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Default RE: go .18 parts

i was wondering because ive seen them made of two different materials, brass and aluminum, im taking it that brass is the better choice because of the weight, or is it a preferance thing?
Old 12-08-2011, 07:17 AM
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Default RE: go .18 parts

originally I used the PB wheel simply because it was what I had on hand, it was that or the steel AQU. wheel and I went for the lighter one. I did make a couple of aluminum wheels to play with but at that time I was having issues getting enough torque to turn the props I wanted, so I stuck with the heavier Brass wheel. Now the low torque issues worked out I might try a aluminum wheel again to see if it helps Top Speed any. May work real good in a rigger.
Old 12-08-2011, 06:06 PM
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andybenton
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Default RE: go .18 parts

yeah, i decided on an aluminum one, looking for some fancy anodized ones, lmao.


i came up with a solution to my pull start, it was quick and easy... i just took the handle off and tied the rope back around the stop that goes into the handle, now, if i even want to put it back on, alls i have to do is untie my knot, and reasymble it all. no rewinding springs and silly stuff like that. nice and easy.


are you still modding engines? i know you stoped because of work and school before.
im just looking for a new head button, one that will accept either turbo, or long plugs.... thats about all my lhs carries anymore. no shorties
and maybe the same burnroom as you use on your "stage one" mods.

if you are, just pm me

thanks.
Andy
Old 12-09-2011, 07:22 AM
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Default RE: go .18 parts

I tried one of the anodized aluminum wheels with the wedge collet, off ebay 1 time. I still haven't been able to get it off that engine without destroying it or the crank. I've heated it, used pulley pullers, jaws in the V groove with a brass drift on the end of the crank and a Big Hammer,,,, It's still Locked in place

I have been working on a few things but not really doing outside work For Now. Still Waiting to get the new CNC Laith & 5 axis mill to play with
Old 12-09-2011, 08:58 AM
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andybenton
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Default RE: go .18 parts

hey i understand man, keep me in mind if you ever decide to part with anything youve allready got made up XD



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