pro27

I'm finally considering taking my SK Daddle Too off the shelf and finally building it. (enough dust has acumulated)
This was originally intended for a .19 size engine, but that was like 20 years ago. Engines have come a long way since then.
Any suggestions as to a powerplant?
Would a modern .15 or .18 buggy/car engine be enough ? Most of these put out about twice as much power as my old Veco .19 did years ago with the same boat.
Also thought about maybe an 21, but not many have a standard threaded shaft needed. AND, the 15/18 are less expensive.
What about a drive line?
I was thinking about an Octura OC4STR strudder setup instead of the stock straight shaft angled drive. Maybe even surface drive.

Any recommendations or suggestions?

tsunami

if you dont mind me asking can you post some pics of it .ive never heard of that boat.
personaly id go with the smaller moter as you dont know what its going to do as it is with the new power plant plus their eisier on the wallet.

pro27

Go to ...
http://www.dumasproducts.com

In the search box type in the number 1402

It is a model of the old style Hallet Ski Boat.

Like I mentioned, I had one before (too many years ago) and powered with a Veco .19. It moved along pretty well considering the motor of the times.
The Veco put out, powerwise, what some of todays low priced .12 buggy engines put out (maybe 1/2 horse). A modern .21 may have too much power for this design (yes, you can have too much power, if you can't control it).
That is why I was thinking of a .15, (on average .56-1hp) for a mid price range engine.

Will Sgarlat

Yo Pro,
A friend gave me a Skdaddle Too that had a K&B .21 in it, with the straight drive shaft, 6-od fuel tank and standard size RC gear. It went ok, but ran wet and I couldn't really get it to skip along like they should. The hull has a nasty "Whoop" in it (he must have used a belt sander on the framework) so it would ride on a tilt if it would run dry.

I'd go with a .21 and use a flex drive so the prop angle can be adjusted for the best ride.
The newer K&B .21 I bought soon after they were released in the mid 90's is a real dog! I would not buy another one of those again, though I really love their outboard .21 (3.5cc)!!
Perhaps you can fins a nice engine in the classified section if RCUniverse that would be nice and powerful but easy on the wallet. Look into OS or OPS engines.

Happy rooster tails!
Will

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Pro27,
I too have one in the box. I am planning on using a K&B 3.5 with the stock can type muffler. The engine is an older model with exhaust throttle, twin oulet pipes that point straight up (same muffler used on their SS outboards). It is an ideal design for this kit since you don't need to fashion a custom exhaust. Since it has a wide open engine bay, this engine is a nice piece to display in the middle of the hull, and just seems to "fit" that design. You don't want a big 'ol tuned pipe sticking out of this sleek and low hull, it's not that kind of boat. Another option is to use a side exhause engine with an airplane type tank muffler and use silicone header tube connecting it to a piece of aluminum (or brass) tubing through the radio compartment exiting from the transom (cool look- like a scale boat exhaust). Check ebay for an example of the engine under item 3167706328

As far as hardware, I am going to use a .150 flex cable mounted under the hull. I have a SK-Daddle 40 with a K&B 40 that I built years ago with the solid shaft (as plans show). It did not work well, and I changed it to a Marine Specialties HBR double rudder (same as old K&B) outdrive with the dual rudders and .187 flex cable. It did not work at all. Both set-ups gave me problems with prop cavitation. I got ahold of an old-timer that worked at Dumas (can't recall his name, he might still work there...). He suggested the flex cable under the hull. Mount it parallel with bottom of hull or with a couple degrees of positive angle. Make sure to leave enough clearance to experiment with different size props (I made mine too close to hull and did not have enough clearance for bigger props).

Some fellows are using outdrives on the Cracker Box hulls with great success, but it did not seem to work (for me, at least) on the SK-Daddle hull. I don't know why. I would not suggest the surface drive just because I tried several depths and angles with the HBR set-up without success.

Hope this helps,

Pilgrim

pro27

Pilgrim..........

Thanks for the response. You have provided a great deal of useful info.
With current model hulls, it's easy to set them up simply by going with what is recommended by the mfg. But taking a 25+ year old ?? design and trying to moderize it, will take a deal of experimenting. That's why I'm asking for what might work before I begin.
I myself was thinking of a crackerbox type setup, since essentially, that is what this hull is, but I was hoping that performance could be improved by instituting a more modern drive system like a flex setup, either parrallel subsurface underhull (as you describe) or parrallel subsurface behind the transom (Octura strudder).

The decesion as to power plant is still open. Wish I still had my OPS .21 ( Serial #189) that I used in my Drag n' Fly 20, many years ago. That was one B^&*^%$#@ motor in it's time. (Originally purchased through Shamrock Sales who was the importer at the time. My favorite was my Super Tigre G65 rrse) time to stop reminiscing![]

Still wondering what a .15/.18 would do powerwise?
I have some .12- .15 powered hulls, but they are much smaller and lighter.

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

A .15 or .18 would probably power it fine, only one way to find out, though. I think you can still buy the OPS side exhaust .21 engine, and quite reasonably priced (I think Aeromarine Laminates was advertising them). I chatted with Jerry Dunlap (hull designer and overall nice guy) on another website regarding this set-up some time ago. I'll PM you w/ details.

Pilgrim

pro27

Pilgrim.....

After checking some old posts and reading, it looks like the consencios is a submerged parallel drive under the hull. Now, to figure out what hardware to use. It also looks like I may just go with a .21 for power. I'd hate to have to upgrade for some more speed later if I went with a .15 now.

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Look for the Dumas H-25 hardware kit for the Deep Vee 20 Competition Fiberglass. It has the brass strut with needle bearings and the .150 flex shaft already silver soldered to the prop shaft. It has a rudder w/ bracket that will bolt right onto the transom, too. Still available from Dumas, but can be found on ebay for less if you keep a diligent eye.

Pilgrim

Rehabber

My Feedback: (9)

I am working on a stock Sk Daddle that will be powered by a Thunder Tiger 15 Marine engine. It will have the stock straight shaft. I have a second SK Daddle that I built about 30 years ago that had various engines in including a KB 3.5. The K&B provided so much power that the boat would actually do a torque roll on acceleration with a JG prop. The K&B definitely over powered the boat. A stock ST 23 seemed to power the boat just about right.
I was wondering if you plan to use the stock setup for the radio box,ie having the fuel and the radio in the same compartment?

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Rehabber,
On my SK-40 I used a plastic (10 oz/12 oz?) tank in the engine compartment. I had to block it up by about an inch to bring it close to even with the carb venturi. I put my radio in the rear sealed compartment. On my SK-Daddle Too, I will put the tank in the engine compartment as well, but if I get ambitious, I might even build my own tin fuel tank to custom fit or maybe use an old Perfect brand airplane tank if I can find the right size/shape. If you put the tank in the rear compartment, I'm afraid it would move the CG too far back, plus the feed line would be too far away from the engine to get consistent running.

Pilgrim

pro27

IMO, having the fuel tank in close proximity to the radio gear is asking for trouble. I will use a dual tank setup located in the engine area, totally seperate from the radio gear. My tanks will consist of an 8oz main tank with a 2oz hopper. For fun racing this will give me more than enough runtime.
I'm working on a deal for an OFNA Force .21 P4 to power this thing. It uses a slide valve carb, but that is easy to work around in a boat.
Remaining on the look out for some running gear.

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

Make sure to use a turn skeg at the middle of the hull. It won't turn very well without one.

Good luck & have fun!

Pilgrim

pro27

What size skeg for the SKD TOO? How far from the transom should the back edge be?

Has anyone tried a transom mounted turn fin instead of the center hull one?

Rehabber

My Feedback: (9)

The skeg for the SK Daddle Too is 1" wide and 1 3/8' deep per the Dumas plans. It is located directly under the flywheel. The plans show the back edge located 9 3/8' from the rear of the transom and that is where I have mine located. My first boat turned great with the skeg placed under the flywheel.

pro27

Thanks for the info rehabber............
I knew it needed a skeg, but the reason I asked is because my kit is an OLD one. My plans are actually INSTRUCTIONS, for the SK Daddle and SK Daddle Too. It consists of one large sheet (20x20 ?), 15 b&w pictures that shows construction steps on both sides and H-1 and H-2 hardware setups with measurements for placement inked into the pictures. There is no mention of a skeg anywhere on it nor any plan, line drawing of the hull at all.
There is a photocopy of a type written page that was done unknown years ago that includes other items needed, including the turn skeg.
If it weren't that I had built one in the past, it would be difficult for someone with no experience to build.

I was all set to order myself the OFNA .21 P4, then came across a great price on a Hot Bodies .18 buggy motor. Almost $40 cheaper. I may say to heck with it and go with the .18. If an older K&B 3.5 seems to have too much power, than the OFNA would also. Posts on some other boards also show that others are using .15 size motors with good results. So I think I may take the middle road.

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

any suggestions on mounting a fuel tank in a sk daddle?

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

I am, restoring a 36" SK Daddle that was built in the 70's, it is a gift for my Dad. He always wanted a nice wooden boat as a kid but never had one, I found this one on eBay and bought it, I am close to completion now. It had a KB .61 engine in it with an Octura Cool Ring and an old 72Mhz surface radio system by Futaba. The engine was a goner and so was the radio, so I replaced the engine with a rubber mounted Dynamite .32 marine version.

Here are some before pics, the after pics will come soon. It is no longer the color scheme that you see though.

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

hey can u post some pics for the top of your sk daddle? thanks

xjeepguy

OMG, There are other Skdaddles left! I have a 36" , and a 25" both barrell back. My dad built them some 30 years ago, and now I have them. I am currently restoring the 36" for him as a birthday gift. I will post pics later when I get home.

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, there are still SK Daddle's left around. I finally finished the one I did for MY dad, I also did it as a birthday gift and man was he ever surprised. It has yet to be put in the water, but I hope we may do it this weekend.

Here it is when it was almost done.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

Nice!!!

I'm thinking about building one and entering it in some B mono races just to mess with other club members.

Davcruz

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks!! Chuck. It means alot coming from a seasoned veteran such as yourself. That is the first boat I had ever messed with. My dad bought it on eBay as a basket case last summer and he just never got around to fixing it back up. I snuck it out of his workshop one day and spent about 2 months putting it back together at my house and redoing basically the entire boat. Lets just say that is probably the most expensive SK Daddle on the planet...haha

I know the Marine specialties dual rudder setup is way overkill on that boat, but it was on it when he purchased it so I just reused it, had to replace one rudder and 2 control arms though.

Here is what I had to put into the boat:

-radio box (it never had one)
-rudder
-2 control arms
-push rods for rudders and carb
-aluminum engine mounts with rubber bushings
-fuel tanks
-Dynamite .32 marine engine
-servos and RX TX (pulled from an MT I replaced the radio on)
-one trim tab
-bushings in the strut
-Mac tuned pipe and header

and loads of other little misc parts

Plus the new paint of course, which I did myself.

Hydro Junkie

Pro27, one thing I would recommend is to NOT USE the Dumas supplied framing. If it's normal Dumas quality, it's a very poor grade of mahogany ply. I would recommend using it for templates and build the boat with aircraft grade ply of the same thickness. This way, ou get a stronger hull and can make multiple hulls by just buying more "off the shelf" lumberI would also recommend making templates of the skin panels out of a light metal for the same reason

iluzhun

Wow does this bring back memories. My dad and I built a SKdaddle JR back when I was in grade school.We put an OS .10 in it with the solid shaft drive. I mounted the fuel tank in the bow section during build up. This kept the radio and fuel separate and kept the engine bay clutter free. Thanks for all the pictures and bringing back old fond memories.

Chris