amax

Toss the gasket, Make sure the Header Flange is Flat, if necessary take a Mill File and true it up, I use Clear RTV silicone on my headers, then let it dry overnight. I don't have header leaks anymore.

stunter2b

I know some of these liquid gasket can hold up to 600F.maybe even more...not sure how hot that area gets though...

but ya if you can go to shop and buy that stuff and cut to size I just might look into that, since I know they are brittle and would be wise to change each time you mess with your pipe.

bduncs

Dang. I wanted to try and get my boat out today. I'll head to the store and get some gasket sealer then I suppose...
Thanks for the help guys!

rcguy1411

i grabbed a sheet of gasket material from the local auto supply figure i will never have to buy another gasket as long as im in this hobby cost me like $ 5.00 and i can make a new gasket in 5 min or so

itsaboy2

I JUST BOUGHT a brand NEW SHOCKWAVE 36 BOAT IS COMPLETLY STOCK AND RUNS GOOD ALL BROKEN IN AND NICE.HAS A LITTLE WOBBLE BUT IM STILL WORKING ON THE TRIM TABS.I HAVE ONE QUESTION AND IM BRINGING IT HERE BECAUSE YOU GUYS ARE GOOD AND LKNOW YOUR STUFF.I WANT TO KNOW IF I CAN GET A KIT OR SOMETHING AND PUT A CLUTCH IN IT SO WHEN THE MOTOR RUNS THE PROP DOESNT SPIN.ANY INFO WOULD BE HELPFUL. IF I CAN WHAT IT WOULD COST AND WHAT I WOULD HAVE TO CHANGE.THANKS GUYS PLEASE SHOOT ME AN EMAIL IF YOU HAVE ANY INFO [email protected]

rcguy1411

clutches dont really work with nitro boats as the boats we run need forward movment to get water pressure for cooling the other isue s are they tend not to last verry long i belive that thunder tiger has /had a boat with a clutch and they had a lot of problems with them you also loose alot of performance with the clutch [link]http://www.tiger.com.tw/product/9554.html[/link]here is a link to the thunder tiger engine i was refering to i know Apache 1 has put an OS .46 in his shockwave and it really has alot more power and peformance as far as putting a clutch i dont belive ther is one for the stock engine

tman52748

My Feedback: (1)

I don't recall, do you guys run the boat rich out of the water, as it leans out in the water?

rcguy1411

rich on the dock it will lean out some when you put a load on the engine

bduncs

I pulled my carb off to clean it out and I reinstalled everything properly (I think) according to the blown up carb diagram. However, now to move the throttle arm I have to give it some inward pressure to get the arm to slide and the carb to open and close. If I just try moving the throttle arm up and down, it seems to catch on something, and wont allow me to open and close the carb.
Also it feels like the whole throttle barrel is a lot looser in the carb. Im guessing I put it back in improperly? Is there a special trick in doing this or did I do something else wrong?

amax

Sounds like the Set Screw that holds the barrel in is To Tight, You probably Can't close the throttle all the way either. The set screw should be backed out enough to let the carb close completely. I use a Dab of RTV Silicone on the threads for locktight, it stands up to heat and nitro better than blue locktight and don't permanently lock it like the red locktight does.

bduncs

Is the set screw the idle screw? Or is this a different screw?
If so, that is not the case. I loosened the screw and then completely removed it. Both times no results.

amax

Look On this [link=http://www.dynamiterc.com/ProdInfo/Files/dyn6450-explosion.pdf]Blow Up[/link],, Part #DYN6466 and lock nut #DYN6467, Is that what your calling an Idle Screw?
There's not very many moving parts on these carbs so It can only be a couple things. The set screw is the first thing I check when there's an issue like yours, the tip of it rides in the angled groove in the barrel (#DYN6469) and makes it move in and out as it's rotated. Next thing is make sure the spring is in right (#DYN6473), then blow everything out good with brake parts cleaner(BPC), Just a little minuet spec of Dirt can fell like 80 grit paper in there sometimes and can cause sticking issues, make sure you blow the hole out the set screw goes in, they like to hold grit and old chunks of locktight that will get pushed into the carb when the screw is reinstalled.
When I'm building carbs I like to get the bench clean and lay a piece of clean masking paper down, then get the parts good and clean with BPC and lay them out to dry on the paper. Then I go Scrub my hands real good. I wipe the parts down with a clean paper towel to remove any residue from the cleaner, the Ozone Friendly, Non Flammable brake parts cleaner will leave a chalky like film.
Then I Wipe the barrel with a Light coat of Clean Oil and slide it in.

rcguy1411

make shure your lsn is set right or it may cause some binding when closing the throttle

bduncs

I'll have to check the spring then, it appears to be in correctly however. I'll also make sure to blow out the set screw.

I put my LSN back to the stock setting so it shouldn't be causing the binding.

bduncs

It ended up being that the set spring needed to be screwed in further, to keep the screw in the the groove and the carb on "track". However, the only way for me to keep the throttle moving smooth and not "grind" I have to screw the screw in far enough so that their is still a small gap in the carb, and it can not completely closed. What should I do about this?

rcguy1411

you could remove a little off the end of the screw

bduncs

what is the difference between cutting the screw shorter and just unscrewing the screw out a little bit?

tman52748

My Feedback: (1)

Had my shockwave out yesterday, what a blast. I did end up hitting something, flipped the boat over on its top. Good thing I put the pool noodles in the boat, it was bobbing like a boey when I finally got over to it. I did bend my prop up a bit. The tips were folded over, tweaked them with a pliers and it runs fine. I wonder if anyone reworks props like the do with real boat props? I suppose, for $15, just buy a new one.

I'd really like to upgrade to an OS .46 VX-M. That would be real sweet!

amax

So even if you back it out 1\8 or 1\4 turn it starts binding?
Make sure the end of the screw and the cylinder\barrel is smooth no grooves or spurs in it from being installed improperly. You can take a piece of 400 grit paper and dress it up if needed, bigger spurs can be dressed with a small Fine file then sand paper if necessary.

tman52806 you are going to Destroy Your strut and drive shaft running that bent and unbalanced prop, or running a Stock Raw prop that is unbalanced or unsharpened. There are No Prop cutters that will rework a badly bent prop as far as I know, Liability would be To high. Most metals get very weak when bent in that fashion and even weaker when Cold forced back into shape, If the Tip of 1 of the blades comes off at 20,000+rpm and hits Somebody or Something,, It's Gonna Do Damage. Cast Metals like your prop are even more pron to such failures, and an Extremely Dangerous Prop to be using. Safety is worth spending the $$ now rather than Paying 100 times that at the Emergency Room later.

tman52748

My Feedback: (1)

Understood amax! It was the original copper prop from way back when. I sharpen and balance all my props, perfectly. With just the tip slightly bend, I didn't figure it would cause an issue because I tweaked it back and it seamed to look practically new again. I only ran it for a minute this way, so I don't see any damage to the strut or anything. I'll check it out on the balancer tonight, but I'll probably pitch it in the garbage, not worth getting hurt over. I have a new X447, and and X445, but it sounds like I should order an M445 according to a few more recent posts. What plug are you using? I'm only running 15% nitro.

bduncs

Once I got the set screw figured out, my problem ended up being just some microscopic dirt and such that was causing the "grinding" when open and closing the throttle.  I sprayed some WD-40 on the moving parts, and closed my throttle and let some soak on the top.  It ended up working just fine after, and I was able to get it out on the water today with no problems! Gotta love the days that you don't have any/many problems

tman52748

My Feedback: (1)

So bduncs, the M445 is the way to go?

bduncs

Yes I would strongly recommend the M445. I have only seen/tested the stock Prather prop, and the M447. It was the best out of these 3. I had cavitation and lower top end speed with both the Prather and the m447.

amax

Ahh cool, balancing and sharpening is essential, I lost the Strut, Prop, and drive shaft on my first 1\8 scale hydro before figuring that out,,LOL the Raw Stock prop literally rattled my strut in two. Double Check to make sure your Prop Shaft isn't bent also.
As far as plug, I haven't run 15% nitro in A Long Time, So what I run won't necessarily work for you. For Low % Nitro you will want a Hot Plug of whatever brand you use, and I would reccomend using a Long Plug. I prefer the McCoy Plugs myself I've had a lot of good results from theme, there Hot plug would be the MC8, and they are long plugs.

bduncs glad ta hear ya got er figured out. I told ya it didn't take much grit to feel like a boulder in there,,
Yea a good day On the Pond is Hard to beat, but even a bad day On the Pond is better than a day at work,,

bduncs

Yes you were right on the ball with the problem being the set screw and dirt!
I couldn't agree with you more!