I need a set of instructions from an old 1/8 Circus, Pay&Pac, ect. I have a set of Newton plans and would like some directions so I kinda know what I`m doing. Thanks, Gary

I built the 1982 Pay N Pak from Roger Newton plans. I know of no instructions to build the boat. It's assumed that if you are venturing into a project like that, you know how to build.

was looking for a set of Dumas or other kit instructions. Just would like more guidelines

First off, Dumas instructions are not really that good for building even a Dumas kit. They tend to leave out a lot of info that should be in them. Being well familiar with Newton plans, as well as knowing Roger, I may have some answers for you. My first question is which boat do you have plans for? Being a roundnose, picklefork or canard, they all have different things you need to know and do while building.

U31 Miss Circus Circus

Which one? The Circus Circus sponsorship started in 1978 with a front engine/rear cockpit boat. In 1979 through 1982, they ran a Rolls powered cabover and a 4-point canard(1982 only). In 1988, they ran a new turbine boat, interchanging with the former Turbine Atlas Van Lines(carrying Miller High Life sponsorship). In 1989 through 1991, the boat was a clone of the 1988 closed cockpit boat, before being phased out with the 3-wing hull. In 1993, there was the 2-wing hull, being the last(possibly forever) to carry Circus Circus sponsorship. That may explain why I say "which one?'

1988 model Circus

Okay, now that we got that straight, where do you want to start? Woods? Stringers? Symbols on the plans? Engines?

Oohhh, how about everything, I guess I`d like some guidelines. I could do it without any help but it would just make it easier with some guidelines... Gary

Okay then, we'll start with the wood. I'm pretty sure Roger has all the woods called out on the plan but we will go over them anyway. You will need three thicknesses of plywood, 1/16th, 1/8th (FIVE PLY) and 1/4(FIVE PLY). Stay away from the home improvement center plywoods. The 1/4 is only 3 ply and usually has voids in it(not good for boats). Also, stay away from doorskin for the 1/8th(been there, done that, not a good choise). If you can find a source of AIRCRAFT GRADE plywoods in large sheets, get some. If not, mail order or the LHS will have to do. You will need one sheet of 1/4X12X24 for the transoms(both the stern and sponsons), two sheets of 1/8thX12X48 for the engine bay walls, the sponson insides, the sponson edge frames and a strut doubler in the stern area. The rest of the hull is 1/16th ply, so you will need five to six sheets of 1/16X12X48 for the cross frames and skin. You will need to get twelve 1/4 square stock Spruce for stringers as well. Four need to be 48 inches long, the rest can be 36 inches. These will be used for glue blocks and for strengthening the hull. I also tend to use 1/8th spruce at my 90 degree glue joints when glueing 1/16th framing where it's not notched to fit. One other piece of wood you will need is a piece of pine or fir 2X4. This is used to shape the bow blocks at the front of the ram wing, so plan on some serious shaping to get them to what you want. This should get you to the point of being ready to put in the systems(fuel, radio, cooling, drive), which is where my boat is(pictured below)

Now we can get to the actual building. You will need to build a jig of some sort to actually build the boat on. The reason for this is to make sure the boat is built square and not twisted. I use a simple one made from particle board and 2X2s, as can be seen in the picture above. What you use is up to you. You will also need to get a cowling BERORE you get too far. I dont have them on my boat, but the engine sides also form part of the cockpit area, so having the cowling will let you line everything up so the cowling will fit properly. You can get one from Dumas or Thunderboat Reproductions. Now, getting to cut out the parts, cut ALL the cross frames oversized, as this gives you room to test fit and not have to recut several times, which can get expensive real quick. When you get the frame to fit like you want, SAND off the excess. A benchtop belt or disc sander is ideal for this(if you have one). Also, don't forget to cut out the circles on the parts. These will lighten your boat considerably, as well as give the boat a way to be drained of water(and water will get in). One other thing before you start building, you need to preplan where your fuel tank and radio gear will be located. Most of the guys who race have their radios in the cockpit area and the fuel tank(s) under the deck somewhere, close to the engine. You will also need to be thinking about how to mount your tails, rear wing, rudder bracket and skidfin bracket while you're building as well. The reason for this is you need to decide if you are going to just drive woodscews into the transom(Dumas style), use blind nuts, or some other way of mounting the brackets. Same goes for the tails, on how you are going to fasten them. Most racers have an "L" bracket fastened to the deck and the tails screwed to them, using NYLON SCREWS. Hope this doesn't come as an information overload[sm=confused.gif]

I`m gonna print this out, very good job.. Thanks, Gary
By the way, take care of my State, I was born and raised in the north east corner about 70 miles north of Spokane and about 40 miles south of BC. in Colville....