boataddict

I have only seen the Home Run Water Kits made by marine specialties, but I’ve read on other forums where people have created some pretty imaginative water rigs to add load to the engine. They do this by hooking up the water feed to cool the engine and then fill a kiddie pool, wheelbarrow, wash tub etc. with water and secure the boat while breaking it in. You should call marine specialties and find out what other water kits they may have.

boataddict

Holyeagle in the general forum asked me a question about the Miss.Bud drive dog screw. I think this info will be useful so I am posting a copy here for the Miss.Bud readers.

"I read in one of your post were you had troubles with the set screw in the drive dog. I am experiencing the same problem. I contacted Horizon Hobby to get assistance. The gentle man I contacted did not have any ideas on how to get the screw out. Can you tell me who you spoke to when you called? " - Holyeagle


Holyeagle,

The problem I believe with the screw is during assembly they used a substance called Locklite or similar to prevent the screw from vibrating loose. Locklite comes in about 4 different flavors. Blue is medium strength and Red is maximum strength. It seems that Proboat used RED which works too well and will make the screw almost impossible to remove.

Read this post : http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/s...light=miss+bud

This post has a lot of good info on how to loosen the screw. If you haven’t already rounded out the screw you can heat up the screw using a soldering iron. This will cause the locklite to loosen and allow you to remove the screw but it will have to be done quickly once heated or the locklite will harden again..

If you can’t remove the screw another way around this is to remove the engine using a 3/32” Hex screwdriver and the fuel tank. Before you do all this remove the prop before removing the engine so you can get a better hold on the shaft. Once the prop, engine, tank (in that order) have been removed you can slide the shaft out from the inside. I know it’s a pain but I did this few times until my replacement was delivered from Proboat.

Now if you don’t have a soldering iron and you have already rounded out the screw, call Horizon Support and ask for Randy in Boat support he is helpful and thorough. He knew exactly what issue I was having, he will also suggest you use the soldering iron trick but it was too late for me at this point. If he tells you to remove the engine, tank, etc (like I said above). Just explain that this is a big pain (especially if the boat is new) for you particularly if you have all the fuel lines, water cooling lines, exhaust coupler, tuned pipe and tank all tied down with tie straps like I have and to do this every 2 hours as recommended by them is NO FUN at all doing it that way. He should then send you the replacement parts.


They should send you the following parts Free of charge if you purchased the boat recently.

Drive Dog and Joint: 1:12 Miss Bud [PRB2216]

Stuff Box and Shaft: 1:12 Miss Bud [PRB2214]


When you get the replacement parts, use locklite BLUE (just a little) on the screw in the drive dog. Also when working on these screws use good hex screwdrivers (with comfortable-grip anodized handles ) to get a good grip, this will help you to remove the screws without rounding them out too much. I included the 2 links below as an example, you don't have to use these brands listed in the links but anything with a good handle and a strong tip will help.

Tools:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/D...&OverallCatID=

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFAK6&P=ML

Also, don’t forget to test the tank underwater like I explained in the Bud post. If the tank leaks whatsoever; even just a little, not only will the leak cause expensive nitro fuel to spill all over the inside of the bud but your engine can run too lean because of this and can cause damage. If it leaks, call Proboat and let them know it leaks and they will send you a replacement tank with cap free of charge. These are the only 3 parts (tank, drive dog and Shaft) that I had Proboat replace for me as well. .

Keep the old shaft as a spare in the event the new one falls out in the water or something.


I hope this helps. Let us know the outcome.

zzman

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Here she is finally came in! it does have the updated flex shaft and a few other things. thanks to all of you that made this post so informative now i can water proof it and make it race worthy. IM HYPED UP!

boataddict

She looks great , good luck and have fun. Let us know how she performs.

zzman

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i noticed ther is no air filter? how many of you run w/out one. i know there isnt much dust on water but wouldnt it help keep water out if it did get in there? what grease do you recomend for the flex shaft?

teamchrome

My Feedback: (4)

Check further up on this topic and Boataddict has the info on the grease, its from Prather,LHS should carry it if not check Tower.
The air filter idea is one that ive gone over also, not for dirt or dust but the water that is in the moter compartment splashing up from the flywheel and entering the carb. I used the spare exhaust coupler and put on the carb and it works great. it sets up higher and makes it harder for water to enter the carb..
I just put on a exhaust deflector on it today from Du Bro.Ill try a pic..

carfean

Has anyone heard of the set screw in the Miss llumar having the same affect as on the Miss bud?

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

ok ive looked everywhere on tower and the slowest epoxy i can find is 45 min. where can i get the 90min epoxy? devcon is what i was looking at

boataddict

Loctite Brand 90 Mins - Lowes.

Lowes - http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=prod...011&lpage=none


Devcon Brand I believe I got at Walmart

They all work the same.


45 Mins will work too. Just work with a small mixture at a time.

Even though it says 45 mins, I believe it starts to set in about 20 mins. Just don't take too long to apply it and you should be Ok.

zzman

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well all i have to say is -TOWER ROCKS! i put in a 60dolla order and they gave me 20 bucks off. so im set and gonna do every mod you did to yours. i ordered yesterday and i guarentee it will be here today. then the FUN begins- pull the motor and tank and get to work! i love this hobby.
thanks for all the help addic!!!

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

ok i dont know how to get the water outlet in when i cant get to the back of it to put the nut on. im not sure if they changed the motor compartment or what? its sealed off from the rest of the boat. now i dont know how to add extra floatation up in the front as well. please help...

boataddict

Ok I see you got the new 2005 hull, this should also have the flex shaft as well, lucky you.

Proboat may have added some flotation. You could do the bath tub test (protect the electronics if you do) to see if additional floatation is needed. Or just give Proboat Support a call and ask them.

After seeing how sealed up it is I wouldn’t try to add the water outlet (it's optional anyway) right now because that would entail you ripping up the boat. I would concentrate on sealing the cowl with the window/door sealing tape. From the picture the bottom of the engine compartment looks solid, how is the rest of the boat, do you notice a lot of flexing? Send us some more pics of the inside.

I am getting a Miss.Llumar for my wife so we can race pretty soon. The Llumar has a similar design. I will look at the Llumar when I get it and post any ideas for upgrades if needed.

zzman

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zzman

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It seems pretty strong, and yes it is the new BUD . i thought that as well. prob the only way to do it would be to cut the side panel out. and im planning on making a new lid that is better and wont need taped on. it is the only cheesy thing on the boat? there has to be a way to make a sealed lid. my mind is working and i will figure a way. and on intel waters someone mentioned cutting part of the pipe and header to total 1 inch to shorten it up. they said it would wake up the motor a bit. but i looked at this and it would move the mount for the pipe forward? anyone try this...

boataddict

Judging from the pictures alone it seems they really made some marked improvements. If the engine area is sealed up well I doubt you will have much water issues in the hull itself. Just make sure the radio box and the cowl is sealed up well.

Check the push rod seals on the stern beside the rudder and the seal in the engine compartment. (These look different from the one’s I have). The tips of the seals are supposed to move with the push rods, if they are sliding on the metal then they are not sealed tightly and they will allow some water in. I would be more concerned about the push rod seal in the rear of the boat. You can use some light CA on the tips and that will make them stick to the push rod thereby sealing them. Make sure before you apply the CA glue that you push the seal in a bit until it’s about dead center; make certain the servos are centered also. You want to give the seal room to move in and out. If the push rod seals are good you may not need to touch them at all.

You can buy sheets of Lexan at the LHS if you want to rebuild the lid.

Sorry but I haven't messed with the tuned pipe or the engine head shims as of yet. I will research more and post it here if I find anything.


Hope this helps.

boataddict

Can you post a few pics of the stern. I want to see if they moved the rudder left of the prop like they did for the Miss.Llumar.

zzman

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boataddict

Thanks for posting the pictures so fast. Your Bud looks good.

The improvements I noticed:

- The rudder on the left is in the same position as the Miss.Llumar, this I believe will make the boat corner better.
- They also made the servo wood cover one piece, this will stop them from flexing when operating
- The rudder seems a bit longer ( not sure if its the angle of the camera)
- Fiberglass in the hull area looks thicker.
- The push rod seals look alot (tighter) better than the originals that came with mine.
- That water drain is a nice addition.


Concerns:

- Radio box - tape should take care of this since they moved the switch inside.

- The Cowl area. May still need the window/door tape - (post a picture of the cowl)

You may not need to do much upgrades at all. ( Maybe just the antenna, cowl & radio seal)

Let us know how she does when you break her in. Thanks again for posting the pictures.

carfean

Hey guy's nice pictures! I have been trying to find pictures of the new 2005 Miss Bud. I have the new Miss LLumar and love the upgrades and changes they have made to it. If you guys like I will post a few pictures of my LLumar to see the differences of the two. Just let me know and I will get them on here as soon as I can.

zzman

My Feedback: (3)

well i got my stand made -thanks addic! and im making a lid for the radio box now and will post some pics when i get it done by the end of the wk. im making the lid w/ thicker plexi and putting a seal on the bottom of it then im putting some screws w/nuts threw to secure it down. and maybe even make a botom plate so the nuts dont pull through. you just have to take the screws out to take it off instead of that dang tape. im sorry but my boat is not going to see any tape at all.

zzman

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almost forgot- has anyone tried to put the rudder that has the hing on it just incase you hit something it will pop up instead of ripping it off?

ritzheli

Awesome Post, You have printed all the best suggestions to make this the most enjoyable boat ever! I have had the same enjoyable times on the water as you have, want to race? Actually I run my boat solo as my attention is very focused on my boat and the hazards near the run course, a second boat at this speed, I'm sure I would have a heart failure watching for another boat as well as mine. Enjoy your spring, summer, fall, as it goes by so fast. Happy Miss Bud Owner

boataddict

I read some other posts in which some boaters are having issues with water coming over the radio box through the turbine. The only time I really had an issue with this, is when I was towing the Bud by the rudder. Since then I used some window sealing tape and stacked them together about ½ inch high under the pipe to keep the water from coming over the stern.

I snagged a few pics from another post a while back (thanks to whom ever posted it) where someone created some really cool vents. I will be doing this upgrade next. I think it makes the turbine look neat.

Teamchrome also has a website with great pictures showing a similar setup using what seems to be a thin sheet of acrylic but I am sure Lexan will also work fine. His site - http://community.webshots.com/user/Teamchrome

You may also want to consider installing a snorkel over the carb. Teamchrome posted this recommendation further up on this page.


Hope this helps.

zzman

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NOW WERE TALKING! another to the ta do list

zzman

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well i got the turbine done and the radio lid is almost done also so all i got left to do is put some bolts in the lid and she is ready for some pics. i promised id get them on here so just to let you know they will be here SOON.