GTdirtracer

in woodshop at school we have to build any project we want so i decided to make a boat, im already ordering a .12 rigger from idm but i cant use that cause its already cut and stuff so i was woundering if there were any other plans so i could have 2 boats, fire fighter plans are $15 is ther any free plans to other boats or should i get the firefighter plans, and i heard firefighter is coming out with an updated version

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Try http://new.intlwaters.com/freeplans.htm for some. The person that did the CAD work on the Hammerhead .12 'rigger, Wade Swatzell, did the BAW Sport 20 hull and the BAW (Bored At Work) .21 tunnel. Tom's early Firefighter plans are on there also.

GTdirtracer

thanks, i found an electric one that im going to build and through in a nitro motor, boat is called predator its a outrigger 6-8 cells so a .12 should fit nicly

Hydro Junkie

I downloaded the various hulls and found some of them to be very minimalistic. I did like the round-nosed hydro, though it needs some serious reworking. I'm toying with the idea of a build thread on that one, if anyone wants to see me rework the design. I can't see it running without flying apart the way it's presently designed. What do you think John and Ron, would it be worth a thread?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

HJ, you might want to get with Wade Swatzell when you do a build on it and suggest changes or any other things where you see the need as he can make the changes on his CAD program. It was done on the one that he uses at his job. I don't know if anyone has tried to build one yet. We were thinking of having my sister laser cut a kit or 2 of it as she can do a lot of that stuff from CD's or floppies.
That is Wade's first shot at designing a hydro so he did need a lot of input from members of Int'l Waters. I have seen the BAW OB tunnel run and it works pretty well.
He also did the CAD work for the Hammerhead .12 shown in another thread.

Hydro Junkie

All in all, for a first shot, I think he did a great job. There are some things he tried to do that leave the hull seriously weakened or unrepairable as he has it designed. I'll just have to build it and see what happens. I will admit, though, the drop sponson design surprised me. Most beginning designer/builders would go with the standard arrangement of a rounded deck. As I said, we'll see what happens

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I'll have to see if I can get him over here. Between him working and going to classes for his job, his time has been at a premium lately.

pinky_d_brain

BAW LOL that sounds like me lol I work on CAD all day if you have any questions about CAD I will do my best to help

Hydro Junkie

Hey Ron, did you ever get ahold of Wade? I just got the parts sheets printed out and am looking at some redesign work. I don't think it will be as bad as I originally thought, mostly the sponson insides and bottom.
You might want to tell Wade that his use of 1/32nd ply is going out the window on my boat, as well as the 1/16th transoms. I'm looking at 1/8th with doublers for the transoms. One change Wade can make right now is to change the nontrip bevel from 60 to 45 degrees on the afterplane sides. More to come later

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

HJ, I sent Wade a PM. I'm hoping that he shows up in here.

wswatz

Hi, I finally got my login info straightened out.... it has been a long time since i have been here.

I here there are some questions/changes to & about my BAW shovel nose. I'm all ears.. and open to any suggestions.

Wade

Hydro Junkie

Okay Wade, you asked for it:
1) Move the bottom break aft to about frame 6. This will support the hull better as well as lower wind resistance.
2) Replace your sponson inside and hull side with a one piece part instead of two separate ones. By glueing the as planned sponson insides to the hull bottom, it becomes imposible to remove and replace the bottom with out destroying the sponsons as well. Also, by using one piece, slotted where needed, the hull will be stiffer than it would with just the two full length engine bay sides. This will need an integrated air trap from the sponson transom to frame 6 as well, to keep air under the boat longer
3) Use at least 1/8th ply for all the transoms, with doublers where the skidfin and rudder bracket will mount
4) I'd recommend notching all the frames for square stock stringers and a hard frame for the sponson edge. The sponsons will fail just glueing the skin to the sponson frames and each other. I'll post some pics to show you what I mean
5) Cut lightening holes in a majority of the internal frames. Hydros need to be as light as possible, plus this will make it possible for the hull to be drained as WATER WILL GET IN
6) I would also recommend enlarging the whole boat to 34" or so. It will give more room inside for the systems, as well as make the hull more stable when using a .21.
7) Increase the bevel on the rear nontrips from the drawn 60 degrees to 45 degrees

Hows that for starters? These are what I'm doing to mine when I start building

wswatz

well, some of those changes will take a little time to do, considdering my avalible time is short, but I will do my best .

Hydro Junkie

Not to worry. It's not like it has to be done today. I'll try to get one built and do a thread on it. May be a while though, as work is keeping pretty busy these days

wswatz

A build thread would be really cool.

Love2FlyMN

I did one in wood shop senior year, Idk if I still have the pics anywhere.. It was my own design outrigger, it's still sitting in my closet, haven't got enough money to buy a motor for it yet, lol