one quick question when using a small flat file in the convex side of the props what is the best method to remove material on the entire surface and not just the high spots where the file contacts the prop first.

thanks
Terry

I sort of wrap the file around the surface as I file so it's not creating a flat spot.

piper,

me too and was not sure i was doing it correctly. what is used to just remove the roughness from the concave side of the prop without affecting the pitch but just to clean it up.

thanks
Terry

I've always started by sharpening the edges of the blades then removing the rough castings from the blades and hub then go from there. Whatever works for you is fine.

I use a needle file that has a rounded face on the convex side sort of like a violinist uses a bow. You can also use sand paper, which I do in the later stages after the sharpening and rough balancing is done. I wet sand to polish both sides and when that is done I do the fine balancing using the same wet sand paper. Be sure to wipe the prop off between checking balance as the magnetic ones can detect very very small weight differences.

jdoug,
when you wet sand to polish....what grit paper do you start with and
what grit do you finish it with?

is it correct that when you sharpen the prop you do not take any off the concave side and if this is the case and it all comes off the convex side how far back from the edge do you start your sharpening to get a nice gradual sharp edge.

good stuff so far and I have been sucessfull to get 2 props relatively sharp and very well balanced using my top flite balancer.

thanks
Terry

I also use the Top Flite balancer...it's works great. One thing I found that I don't like about it is the little plastic disks that go on the magnets. I've used mine enough to start making impressions in the plastic from the hardened steel shaft spinning in that spot over and over again. These impressions are causing drag and now my balancer is no longer as sensitive. Fine for the bigger gas props, but I also do some very small electric boat props on it too and they are spinning as good anymore.

The fix: I'm going to a glass shop to get small circles cut out of very thin glass to replace the plastic. They should last alot longer and shouldn't pit like the plastic.

Bullitt01 - Depending on the material, (stainless, beryllium copper, etc.) I usually start polishing with 400 wet. Then 600 wet. After that I will check balance again...rebalance if needed with a 120gr. foam sand block. When balance is good, I go to 1000 to 1500 all over the prop including hub. I then finish with Mother's metal polish. It will shine like crazy after you buff off the Mother's polish. After this, if you still have scratch marks...you can go back to the fine grit sand paper until they are gone...finish again with metal polish. It takes me quite a while to do this (approx. 2hrs total) as I am an amature and haven't done enough props to get really efficient yet, but it has always given me good results and a sweet looking prop.

I got 4 of those discs with mine so if you mput them on both sides of the magnet, you can flip the magnets over.

just a thought on the plastic discs.

there are also directions on sanding and polishing the magnets to a very smooth finish and eliminating the use of the plastic discs.THe glass is a very good idea too and you would be done with it.

terry