Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

You got lucky that you didn't punch a hole through the piston. I've got one of those piston stops and found out that you can't reef down on the flex cable collets as after I pulled it out, I saw a nice little dent in the middle of a piston.
Good luck in finding another crank. I had one break right at the threads and it took me a long time to find another as the engine was out of production.

unclecrash

Ya I had no intension of reefing down on the piston stop just used it to snug it was scared of what you said might put hole in piston. Also found out when I called HPI today parts been gone for 2 years. I was over looking at Nova Rossi site and the case on the mx12pr looks identical to mine wonder if the cranks the same. I also Emailed them to see if theres anything else that will work. Hey I tore the motor down but cant seem to get the spacer off is there a special tool? I think I can see a snap ring but couldnt get it to move. Dave

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

There shouldn't be anything holding the spacer on but I could be wrong. I'll see if I can find an owners manual for your engine.

unclecrash

Well my luck seems to have changed You got me thinkin Ron that it was a press fit so I took the engine case and layed it on a flat block of steel threaded in the allen bolt in the crank and very lightly tapped on the bolt and checked to see if it moved the spacer it did so I tapped it till I got it off. I dont think I bent the crank. Heck its steel and I realy didnt reef on it when this happened.So I picked up the flywheel and the spacer and found out the spacer doesnot fit in the flywheel all the way when i tightened it down it bent the lip of the spacer so I did somemore red neck repair and layed the spacer on ablock of steel and put one over top of it and tapped lightly Knowing that the lip would crack off and it did now Im hoping when I put it on the spacer is flat. Just going to sand the lip of the spacer a bit to get the little burr off it. The thing I thought was a snap ring was a steel sleeve to hold the spacer on.
Hey Ron if you need any of your Motors repaired send them over to Daves Red Neck repair shop will get er done. Hopefully[sm=lol.gif][sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=49_49.gif] Goes back to the shop to see if the spacer is salvageable.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

That's the only way that I know how to fix things!
Being the son of a shade-tree mechanic I've learned to improvise.

unclecrash

Well I thought the crank was ok but I cant find the collet nut yet. It still apears to have a little wobble. Iwant to chuck adrill bit in it to see. I think what it did was distort the inside of the crank along with the spacer.

unclecrash

Well I looked all day for the collet nut couldnt find it. So I cleaned my whole hobby room lookin.Three planes full of bala dust it looked like a tornado went through. I forgot I was upstairs in my boat tool box the night before. I decided to tear down my oscv so I went up to the tool box again to get a nut driver to pull the glow plug and there sat the collet nut. I must have set it down there when I got the tool the night before. So I poped off the flywheel spacer from the steel sleeve and put it back on hoping it would center up better I could see it was cocked a bit the night before when I would spin the motor by hand. Tapped it on real careful and then used the flywheel and collet to seat everything. I then chucked a drill bit in it and set it on a couple of blocks of steel. I then put a block of steel infront of the drill bit and used my big lighted flytieing magnified and marked the center of tip of drill bit then holding the motor down rolled it real slow it seems pretty good it might be out less than half a millimeter but I wonder how much of that is the collet and the bit of play between flywheel and 5mm bolt. Going to go for it worse that can happen is it grenade[X(]. Hey Ron would this motor do allright in that little El Lobo 2 I really aint in the mood for a scratch build kind of burned out from all the planes I put together and cut out by hand this summer. Dave

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I'm not sure but yes, it should work if it's a 12-cell or higher boat. My latest one was a converted electric hull but am still tweaking on it. most of the parts were taken from another hull and some were things that I had laying around and adapted. I think that I'm going to have to shorten the drive as it's a little long.

unclecrash

Not sure the cell count. but I think the boat is 22in. lazer cut kit. the glass hull is 25in. I believe. Dave

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I've got 2 in 24" and one that's 26". The 25" would be a good one as the extra size helps when installing the hardware.

unclecrash

I inquired about the glass hull size and price but he only sent me the size. I will Email him again. Dave

unclecrash

Well I started to build my boat. I am going to chop it down an inch or so to 24in. That will save me a bit of money on the skins. Plus less waste. The build will be slow as I am short on funds. Plus I want to have the pipe,header and engine mount so I can mock it up to see at what hieght to put the engine. I cut out the bulkheads from 1/8 ply. heres a pic. Dave

unclecrash

heres the skins ready to go. just waiting on my friend to call he works at LHS bringing me more wood for top,sides and engine rails. Nice I dont have to travel 20 min. to shop or in rush hour he lives about 4min. away. Dave

unclecrash

Well I have all the wood I need. Built the Engine rails. Epoxied the bottom skins together. Sitting there drying. Going to check on them after this post. Heres a couple of pics.

unclecrash

I glued the first part of the bottom skins. Turned out nice. Then I modified the engine rails by cutting the front off a bit so I could move the whole assembly foward. Then chopped the back a couple of inches to get the room I needed for the drybox back after shorting the boat 2in. I need the engine mount and the pipe and header. Then I will chop the rails down abit more. Dave

jdoug

Lookin' very nice. Keep em' coming.

What kind of epoxy are you using?

unclecrash

Thanks JDoug I just use what my LHS sells been using it for years NHP 30min. I wish I could afford west systems but not a chance right know[] Dave

unclecrash

Hey look some home made engine mounts in the works. OOOH crap I need that banjo for work. Dont think it will hold the mud any more Arrrg[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]. Darn pair of mounts just cost me a hundred dollar banjo. On second thought its a parts unit. saved me some money just need pipe and header.

unclecrash

Well build is slowing need to go find some rubber isolaters and stainless bols for the engine mounts. I rough cut the top skin. Getting ready to cut the sides. Dave

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Kind of funny for you to mention needing stainless steel bolts for the motor mounts as there is now an ad above your posting for RTL Fasteners!
The rubber isolators are sold by a few people or you can check the McMaster-Carr catalog. I had my LHS order a bunch of SS nuts and bolts from Du-Bro for me.

unclecrash

I dont see the link to rtl but when we were discussing the 5mm stud way back in one of your posts under the word hardware it was underlined I put my cursor on the word and it directed me to rtl fastenered. I had forgot about them. A friend had told me of them a year or so ago. My LHS has some stainless or used to. Plus theres a real good hardware I know of that might have some also. I was going to just cut some rubber hose and flatten it out behind the mounts I made. I really need the pipe and header to keep it going. So I can make sure I get the engine in right . Dont want to have to hack up the formers if its set too low. Dave

unclecrash

Oh I know why I dont see the ad. I turned them off to help speed up my dinasaur computer. But I found my own private stach of stainless. Going to drill the mounts.

unclecrash

Well mounts are on the engine. Turning to the shade tree way saving some money. I thought I would have more room between the aluminium mounts and wood for rubber. but I have a mm or two between each side. So I will use a couple of orings to dampen the vibe Oh and dont tell me the header is backwards this is not the one Im using still have to buy it. Just checking to see if it clears the mounts. Dave

unclecrash

Well allbe that looks like a brand new OS CVR.18 sitting in my boat.[X(] along with a tank and starter belt. Well Ron will this run better than the HPI? Got her for a good price I think. My friend who works at the LHS had a pocket full of money and mine was empty. But hes had a rifle that he barrowed over a year ago which I did some work for so I propisitioned him to buy it and he did. Motor sitting there for $129 tryed to hussle him for a $100 but said he thought the owner wouldnt go below $109 so he called and thats what he said $109 Hey will the os flywheel you gave me the part number for work on this engine. Dave

unclecrash

Well upon lookin at tower for pipe and header. I see I got took on the motor they sell it for $85.00 My LHS must have it missmarked the .15 with pullstart goes for $129.00 Im going to have a talk with the owner. If he doesn't refund me the difference from $109 to $85 Im done shopping with them been going there for over 25 years. His prices always seem a bit high. I will tell him like he told me once before. Quote : I got to get all I can for my penny. Thats what he told me when I gave him a decent bid to paint the outside of his store. And he let someone else have the job who bid just a bit less. Since then and a few other things that happened between me and him Ive been spreading my money around buying expensive things online and giving him the pennys. I told his worker about the few things that happened and he agreed with me and said he didn't blame me a bit. Done venting[:@] Will this header and pipe work for me or should I have got the pipe for the.19 to .35 I already purchased them. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZ605&P=7 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZ557&P=7 I also ordered the 1E flywheel wasn't sure if the 1D was big enough.