Hi All,

Well since the winter is coming real soon now, I am going to be getting started on some winter projects. One project I would like to do is, Port and Polish a motor? Would anyone have any info or articles that could help. I really have no idea about this, what to polish what to port where to polish where to port? Ya now I will do just about anything in the pursuit of speed.......lol. Thank you and all good luck and good boating.

Paul

here is an article to read through just be careful when you start cutting your engine as you can make a nice looking piece of junk real quick!
http://www.nitrorc.com/mods/engines/trx15mod.html

porting boat motors is alot different then porting car engines.
What motor do you have that you want ported? whats it in, what are you looking for out of the motor? more top end, more mid range, more bottom?

Well I have a Dynamite .32 . I have changed prop, carb and tuned pipe. I will rework the hull this winter (sharpen all the edges, was told nothing should be rounded off). But I have read on twisted liquids website that you can get more power from this motor and I quote " Give your ThunderCat 31 a Twisted up grade. Ship your Dynamite .32 to us and get your engine Twisted. Intake and exhaust ports polished with our secret machining. Sameday service on all engine machining. Increases your performance by 20% and response by 50%. When being fast counts, count on Twisted Liquid Racing to get you there." If I could find some sorta walk through on how to do this I would give it a try, but if I can't I might send my motor in over the winter for them to for me. This is just a play boat, because it is a cat and a .32 there really isn't a class to race " last time I took it too the races I was told I would have to race the .45 riggers.......lol". So far the fastest speed I've seen out of my boat is 42mph, if I could get 45mph I think I will be happy...... Its all about the speed! Well all good luck and good boating.

Thanks Paul

If you're seriously wanting to do effective mods on your engine, you'll need to study up... Read everything you can about port timing, and 2 stroke exhaust theory and design, before you get crazy with the Dremel tool. The mods shown being done on the TRX15, are fairly simple and mostly common sense; probably a good place to start... While I'm sure those are effective, little is mentioned about port area or timing changes, and that's where you'll see serious higher RPM power changes, if properly done. Making such mods on engines produced from low-grade materials will likely end in dramatic failure, however...
You may want to consider investing in M.D.'s tuning software: [link=http://rc-engine-analysis-software.com/]ENGINE ANALYSIS[/link], which is specifically designed to help with modifying nitro R/C boat engines (no relationship to seller). At least read the info about this software to get an idea of mods that you were never even thinking of. Another link to some simple sleeve mods is: [link=http://home.earthlink.net/~ob_nut2/id24.html]K&B 3.5 MODS[/link]. This one shows a little more on port timing and area changes.

Once you get started, be careful, and remember... moderation. You can't put back what you've already cut off...

the dynamite engine your speaking of is a simple engine to work on strip it down and remove any casting flash you see in the block or any machining flaws you find, next take your crank and look in the intake port and clean it up in side the port you will notice the wall sides are not true due to how it was machined round it out with no edges dont make it bigger and dont mess with the slot your just fixing the machine work inside when its done polish it up put the sleave back in it aligned up right and look in the exhaust opening if you see the sleave is over hanging the bolck mark the sleave it and make it match the opening in the block but if you do this taper the outside of the sleave to your mark DONT get into the chrome so the hole is the same size on the inside of the sleave your just making it flow better check often as you cant put anything back once its gone its gone!!!!! SORRY I missed a step but not really, still on the exhaust on the block end of things remove any casting flash you see in the exhaust exit also it has a curved side clean this up also makesure your gasket matches and your header to.....I think that just about covers it...

Remember this is not port tuning your engine!!!! But it will make things flow better resulting in a little more power..Its not hard to do but be carefull you can still mess it up..

Oh and the link provided with the TX15 was just to give him something to look at as there is not much info on the net about this subject and that one is great for knoledge because it has pictures of every step and explanes things well And please list FREE links about working motors, if you know any that are willing to give info that is worth 10 cents.........And about these small engines they are all modified plane engines, boat and car both with an exception or two

Thanks for all the help everyone, i will keep checking to see if there is new info available and i will research everything before i cut into the motor. thanks again, good luck and good boating.

Paul

i would find a junk motor (cheap$) that you can practice on before you touch your motor with anything, even after you 'study up' there will always be trial & error in 'porting'... i build real gas motors (v8's) and started doing my head porting. Played with 5 different sets of heads before i finally decided that i was 'ready for the task'..


just IMO... since i feel comfortable after using a grinder, ill be modding the piston for my G260 when it shows up

Good advice it will give you a feel for grinding and how each bit works.......Hay if you ever want to tick-off your old lady and make a big mess port and polish a set of chevy heads on the kitchen table or rebuild a carb on the counter... Trust me they will love you more and wont forget about it!!!

i would find a junk motor (cheap$) that you can practice on before you touch your motor with anything, even after you 'study up' there will always be trial & error in 'porting'... i build real gas motors (v8's) and started doing my head porting. Played with 5 different sets of heads before i finally decided that i was 'ready for the task'..


just IMO... since i feel comfortable after using a grinder, ill be modding the piston for my G260 when it shows up
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Just as an aid in your study material, have a look at this web page and some of the mods done on various R/C engines there: [link=http://members.aol.com/gmajew1096/]JUISKI[/link]

While I don't have any idea of the guy's abilities for doing accurate port area/timing calculation, it looks like he's got a good idea of basic port and internal case modification. Look closely at the way ports are blended in to the outside of the sleeve; smooth tapers, no sharp edges. BTW, it looks like he's also a fan of AXE Rossi, as I am. He's actually got many brands represented there, but the modifications are all similar.

this covers the basics
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/rc/...pporting_1.asp