Drmeff

Does anyone have some before and after pics of an X series octura that has had the tongue cut on it? I have heard this will help pick up a ton of speed if done right and I would like to try it on my x440. I know where to cut, just not how much, and I would like to see what you guys have done!

Thanks!

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

We've got a thread now pinned to the top of the General boat forum which has links that show you where to cut for different prop mods.
An old trick is to coat the face of the prop with Dy-kem or other machinists bluing. Run the prop and where the bluing is gone is where the prop is doing its work. What's left of the bluing is what should be removed.
If you are working with an X-440/3, you can save a little work by getting the M-440/3 as it has most of the tongue already removed.
If you are working on an X-440/3, one thing that I learned while watching Mark Sholund at a race measuring one is that each blade has a different pitch. If someone wanted to get really technical with one trying prop indexing, there could be a slight advantage.

Drmeff

I am working with an x440/2 so it shouldnt be as tough as a three blade! I will take a look at your sticky right now! Am I on the right track thinking that removing the tongue on an X series will do it some good?

Drmeff

Do you think that a sharpie marker would work ok to paint the prop and run it to see the working area?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I don't know, I haven't tried it yet. I'm thinknig that the water would take a markers ink off too quickly.

Drmeff

ah, I suppose.

where would I get that machinist's dye you spoke of?

Sean Bowf

Not sure if you have access to a LHS that sells props...but if you do, compare the X series to the M series, and you should see what part of the tongue to take off. In short, the M series should be an X series with the tongue cut.

Sean

gooycheese

These are the dies Ron is talking about, I dont know your area exactly but this is the type of stuff.


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1D272

http://www.mcmaster.com/ - search for layout ink.


Paul

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

DO NOT get non-drying Prussian bluing...that is like ink that never dries. Get the fluid type layout marking.