acolins

Hello Guys,

I am in the process of building a miss circus circus 1/8 hydro from plans. I am looking for any help with info on do's and dont's.

I would also appreciate any help with what motor radio etc to use.

Thank you in advance

Regards
Adam
a boating virgin!!

TomMoorehouse

Honestly if this is your first boat.... my advice would be to try something easier. 1/8 scale is about the most difficult you can get.

acolins

Hi there,

I have been modelling for years not my first boat built a U-95 years ago, fitted with a .67 K&B but have been out of touch for a while K&B gone now i understand.

Been building and flying planes for the past ten years

Just need some info on what people are running nowadays

f16man

Replace the the heavy mohogany ply with aircraft grade birch ply using the old pieces as a template, MAC 67, CMB, ROSSI, OPS, OS, K&B,PICCO are the engines most used with the MAC and CMB being more of the race breed, the cost of a K&B is $450.00 when they come , you could probably find a good used engine of the race breeds for that kind of money. HYDROJUNKY has and is a regular pleathra of info on getting a dumas together properly.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

Which Circus Circus are you building? Which plans are you using? What are you using for wood? Do you plan to build the cowl from wood, or buy a glass cowl?

Do's
[ul][*] Make several spare copies of the plans before you get started.[*] Cut the parts "outside the lines". This will give you a little extra wood to adjust the fit.[*] Use a jig to build the hull. Starting out with a straight hull is critical for good performance.[*] Use good plywood. Avoid the typical home improvement store ply. Avoid "lite ply". Instead, buy airplane grade. The thin stuff that you will use for sheeting only comes in 3 ply, but get 5 ply for the other.[*] Use good hardware. [link=http://http:www.rossisales.com]Speedmaster [/link] is one good source.[*] Build it light. Cut lightening holes in bulkheads where possible. Make sure there are no areas that are completely sealed off (such as the fronts of the sponsons). Water may eventually get in there and you want some way to drain it out and the rest to evaporate.[*] Seal the inside of the hull with epoxy before gluing on the top decks. Use a little heat, such as a covering heat gun on low, or a hair drier, to thin the epoxy.[*] Make sharp edges on the insides and back of the sponsons.[*] Seal the outside of the hull with epoxy before beginning paint. You only need a thin coat or two. Make sure to smooth it BEFORE it cures and your paint prep will be much easier.[*] Install a 3rd channel needle valve. They make life so much easier.
[/ul]

Don'ts
[ul][*] Don't slather on too much epoxy, it just adds weight.[*] Don't over engineer. Just as with planes, you need it to be strong, but the heavier it is, the harder it will be to get it to run right.
[/ul]
That's a few to get you started.

acolins

Hi Piper Chuck

Thank you for that info, i will post some pics for you all to see

Thank you again

Hydro Junkie

A couple of things that Piper Chuck forgot:
1) Be sure you have your cowling BEFORE you assemble the cockpit area. It's easier to fit the hull to the cowling while building than to try to adapt the two parts later
2) Have all your runing gear installed BEFORE you put the deck on. You will be much bettter off using blind nuts and machine screws to hold the hardware on than using wood screws and hoping the wood doesn't tear out
3) Install your tail mountings before your decks go on as well. There are several ways to secure the tails, so plan ahead
4) Have ALL your systems in before the deck goes on. It's easier to run cooling lines, radio wires and pushrods, install and plum in fuel tanks while you still have options on where to put them

f16man

NICE , PIPER AND HYDRO VERY GOOD INFO.