d-lo

i have had my first gen bud for awhile now, and have had alot of fun modding it a bit. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_64...tm.htm#6484237

now, in an effort to make it keep up with my other proboat, (and to be competitive with my friends.....) i have decided to try taking it to another level. with the straight shaft, and a TZ .18 motor, it was fast, (mid 30's) but not even close to the second gen hulls. i am sure it's possible to get more out of it, but i was at a stand still with my skill level of tuning a hull, and i like to tinker, so tinkering i have done!

i heated up the straight shaft tube, and managed to work it out of the hull. i then ground down the support for the shaft tube, all the way flush to the hull. then, i measured out the proper sized brass tubing, bent it to shape, sleeving it progressively at the end to end up at 1/4" tubing, the size for a miss vegas bushing. i mocked it up with the motor, lined it all up, then milled glass/epoxied it all in top and bottom.

since i had already torn out the transom on this boat, and had an aluminum plate a fabbed up to cover the carnage i had incurred, i now had a great place to mount the vegas strut along with the vegas rudder. ( my freshly destroyed vegas was happy to donate parts for the build.) i simply drilled the proper holes for the strut mounts, moved the rudder over, and bolted everything back up into place. fits like a glove. i now had no place for the steering linkage to come out, but i noticed how straight of a shot it was to the rudder arm from the steering servo, on top of the boat. so, i drilled a very close tolerance hole in the radio box at the upper edge, and ran a straight piece of welding wire right to the arm. perfect straight shot, works great. i may or may not 'boot' the exit hole, it's so tight of a fit, i may just leave it be, we'll see, haven't looked into it yet........

well that's the modded hull, ready for a day on the water to she how she behaves. when i get her wet, i'll let you all know how it turns out.

thanks again for all the help around here folks,

davey

misshydro

D-lo you shouldve thown this on my adjustable strut thread!! combining them to gether. Yes the TZ is fast But I have new friend that mods them to make a proboat go 50plus MHP!![X(] I'm getting one of there moded O.S.18TZ.. one proublem with with your setup is the thicker alum plate going accoss the back? these boats are rear heavy as is. its a good setup but might need to run alttle thinner plate going accross the backend.

d-lo

thanks! really though, in the scheme of things, that aluminum plate weighs next to nothing compared to what i have to add to the nose to keep the boat on the water. it's full of holes that are countersunk too. it's only .125 thick, and a couple of inches long.
so, i'd like to know who mods the motors, if you can't say here, do you mind pm'ing me? i absolutely love the tz motor, we have five or six gallons through the two of them, still air cooled, kicking butt, and they look brand new inside. i'd love to eek some more out of it, can never get enough speed out of them i always say..........



davey

misshydro

its not who everyone thinks!! It's not T*L!!!![:'(] If evenone wants to know just PM me!

d-lo

didn't think it was, i was just being courteous to the board, i haven't refreshed myself on what the rules of engagement are on pumping other businesses on here.........

davey

misshydro

you did good. I'd PM you the info you asked for.

russ722

My Feedback: (15)

looks great man , what parts do u need to do this ? i have a 1st gen too, and wanna change it over if its not too hard.

oh yea how far over do u need to move the rudder?

misshydro

He'd used the miss vegas rudder and adjustable strut and flex cable... If you looked at my thread it needs to be about 1 3/4 from the strut and rudder. I got the measurments theres.

russ722

My Feedback: (15)

hey D-lo ,
is there anything else i can use to get the old stuffing tube out besides a heat gun? i dont have acess to one/.

misshydro

start sanding the top area with 80grit sand paper then use a pair of side dics or wire cutters.they snipjust under the tube.It will pop wrightout..

russ722

My Feedback: (15)

got it out thanks. ok now im using a .150 cable and i have a piece of brass rod 1/4 x .014 do i have to use more then one size pipe or can i use this one all the way? the cable and liner fits nicely in it.

misshydro

Mine is 1 3/4" from rudder end/edge to adjustable strut... You need a 3/16 bras tube for your flex cable.a piece of alum to go accross the rear transom. D-Lo I see you did your rudder rod different then mine. I bet you had to make or got a longer servo throw arm?? I'd made a new rudder arm to connected to rudder rod/linkage to go throw the factroy hole out the rear transom. But I do like that idea D-lo but it might not work if i'd keep my exaust turbine tube..Plus I have a rear hatch/trunk on my boat.Have to look in to that...with rod on the out side no need for that big rod seal eather..hummmmmmmmmm..[&:]

russ722

My Feedback: (15)

ok you lost me. why would i need a 3/16 brass tube, what i have now the liner and cable fits in it great . am i missing something here ? what i ment to say is can i use this pipe from where the motor mounts up to the strut?

and what would i need the aluminum for?


whats the rear hatch for? looks cool.

misshydro

Dont need the line!![:'(] there a big waste![:'(] Alot of race guys are ditching them because when they heatup they melt.Causing the cable to freeze up=snap/break the cable=lose your prop.[:@].Look at the pic D-lo posted..Its a 3/16 bras tube also you need to solder a 1/4 on the tail end where it goes into the strut.. This 3/16 tube will run to motor mount to the strut. The alum piece is the part you need going accross the backend to bolt your rudder&strut too. Rear hatch is for rear wing servo and access pannel to get after bolts and space to maybe place a GPS in at.

russ722

My Feedback: (15)

ahhh ok so 3/16 tube without the liner , and 1/4 inch on Rear but how long should i cut it? and this will work with a .150 cable right?

can u post some pics of the inside of that hatch ?

oh as far as the aluminum , inside or outside? what thickness/lenght? im leaning to outside until i see how you have that hatch. i have big hands. thanks

misshydro

heres what to do. First you need the 3/16 tube,then get a piece of 7/32 tube cut that at 1/2.then solder that to the end of the 3/16..then cut a piece of 1/4 tube at 2",then solder that over the 7/32 tube.Make sure the inside end are even with each other. By doing that your taking up play/gap.I'll show you from my pics.Plus I'm running a vegas flex cable too.also you can make your stuffing tube too.

d-lo

so, if you look closely at my pics, you can see the stuff tube is stepped. 3/16"s, to 7/32"s, to 1/4" at the end to house the brass bushing from the vegas/supervee. as far as length, well, that's up to your application, i addressed it by getting it in the ballpark, then adjusting it with the telescoping of the tubes. i carefully bent it to match the strut, and to end up on the block on the inside, and to leave just the right amount of room for the coupler as well. i would mock it up with just the 3/16"s tube first, get your length figured out, where it will need to land on the inside of the boat, then cut it to match that length once the other tubes are added......

as far as the aluminum, it's just 1/8" aluminum plate, a strip of it, and make it wide enough to mount it, and hold the strut and rudder. one tip, you must be mindful of where the backing wood is at in the transom, i found out the hard way that there is only a narrow chunk of wood in the middle to hold the original rudder, and i had made my holes too wide on the first one. i think i held it up to a bright light source, and i could see the outline of the wood, and i made it that wide. when i went to the adjustable strut, i found that it does not turn as well, it may be one of two things, either it's too far away, to the left, of the strut, or it's too close to the transom. so, i made a strut bracket that is farther back from the transom, and am going to try that first......

good luck!


davey

russ722

My Feedback: (15)

hey thanks for the info. how well does yours hold up with the aluminum on the outside? i dont have the means of fiberglassing so thats out of the question.

so when i cut the aluminum just make it the same size as the wood Mount?

d-lo

i would make it wider. it's ok to be wider, you just have to make sure your mounting holes are inside of the woods dimensions, so you hit it with the screws that are holding it on. look at my pics, the rudder is to the outside of the mounting screws..........

davey

d-lo

update on this boat, here in my tweakin' thread........
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8071754


davey