Bring out the old stuff
#1
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Bring out the old stuff
I've been bringing out the out stuff myself after about a 10 or 12 year absense.
Just repowered an old Maus Motorsports Microcat with an OS .18CVR-MX. Had a Thundertiger .15 in it before,man what a difference. Easly turnning a Oct.x637 and should not have a problem with a x640. It's supposed to be an elec. I'd like to run it against some of the RTR stuff.
Working now on My old Hydrosport Marine Products 33" Cat w/ CMB .65. Seems that this motor has been discontinued and I'm trying to find o-rings for the carb and exhaust.
I bought a Prather 40" DV years ago and never did anything with it. BUT I have an OPS .45 inboard in an Aeromarine sprint cat .21/.45 I could drop in the DV.I've been looking at that real hard lately.
Some of my older projects;
First boat was a Fiberglass Dumas 40" Competition DV w/K&B inboard . Great boat if anyone happens across one.
Built a Dumas Hot Shot .45 and stuffed a K&B inboard .45 in it installed fuel cells in sponsons,SMOKED ALL outboards and alot of inboards back in the mid '80's.
Built a Dumas SKdaddle JR. 18" made for .049 or.10 put a Thundertiger .15 in it.
Anyhow thanks to my brother for getting me started. He scratch built a 60" wood deep vee from his own design and weed eater powered it in1980. I don't know of anyone else how was doing this then. He later powerd it with an OPS .90.Years of fun there. He to has gone throuhg may boats since but still has that one. By the way he's got the bug again too
Just repowered an old Maus Motorsports Microcat with an OS .18CVR-MX. Had a Thundertiger .15 in it before,man what a difference. Easly turnning a Oct.x637 and should not have a problem with a x640. It's supposed to be an elec. I'd like to run it against some of the RTR stuff.
Working now on My old Hydrosport Marine Products 33" Cat w/ CMB .65. Seems that this motor has been discontinued and I'm trying to find o-rings for the carb and exhaust.
I bought a Prather 40" DV years ago and never did anything with it. BUT I have an OPS .45 inboard in an Aeromarine sprint cat .21/.45 I could drop in the DV.I've been looking at that real hard lately.
Some of my older projects;
First boat was a Fiberglass Dumas 40" Competition DV w/K&B inboard . Great boat if anyone happens across one.
Built a Dumas Hot Shot .45 and stuffed a K&B inboard .45 in it installed fuel cells in sponsons,SMOKED ALL outboards and alot of inboards back in the mid '80's.
Built a Dumas SKdaddle JR. 18" made for .049 or.10 put a Thundertiger .15 in it.
Anyhow thanks to my brother for getting me started. He scratch built a 60" wood deep vee from his own design and weed eater powered it in1980. I don't know of anyone else how was doing this then. He later powerd it with an OPS .90.Years of fun there. He to has gone throuhg may boats since but still has that one. By the way he's got the bug again too
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RE: Bring out the old stuff
I am all about the old stuff for just getting into the hobby! My Jet Stream Nitro is almost there I just have to sand and paint the top section black/white to finish off the boat and its ready. Cant wait for spring!
JTR
#3
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RE: Bring out the old stuff
The first RC boat I built was 35 years ago. It was a Dumas Atlas Van Lines 18" hydro and used a Cox TD .049 and built it as a free-runner. I actually did a decent job on it, and went as far as buying epoxy paint for it. It was a great experience, both building and running it.
After that, I spent quite a few years building R/C and Control Line airplanes along with scale plastic models. I have entered international competitions and eventually won first place (IPMS Regional Award in Motorcycle Class - Honda NSR 250GP) and continue to enjoy them both, my favorite being my 2M wingspan R/C gliders.
Back to boats, the first step back into it for me was traveling and meeting everyone at the races within my region the first season to help give me an idea what classes I would be interested in building and possibly racing, so I settled my first purchase on a Dumas Eagle Sport 40 and an OPS .45 for power.
During my time building the Eagle, I ran a Dumas ABS Sprint with a K&B 21SS Outboard to get a feel if I would enjoy a tunnel, and decided for a wood hull in the future.
After getting some driving time and tuning with the Sprint tunnel (I already had a few years competing with a pistol grip with an Associated RC10 Buggy) I decided I was going to stay in boats here on out and bought all the Dumas kits that interested me, and staged a fleet to be built all at one time.
I am just working with the Dumas kits as templates and using my own wood selection for each, and so far have accomplished collecting all the motors and hardware for each. Everything is staged up to the point of just building the hulls.
Here's what is ready for the bench:
Dumas / Cox .05RC SK-Daddle, Jr. (Flat Bottom)
Dumas / Cox .049TD Atlas Van Lines 18" (Hydroplane)
Dumas / Cox .09RC Ske-Vee 10 (Deep Vee)
Dumas / K&B 21 SK-Daddle, Too (Flat Bottom)
Dumas / Webra 20 Drag N' Fly 20 (Hydroplane)
Dumas / Webra 40 Drag N' Fly 40 (Hydroplane)
Dumas / Webra 61 Drag N' Fly 60 (Hydroplane)
Dumas / Moki 40 Atlas Van Lines 40 (Hydroplane)
Dumas / K&B 21 Hot Shot IV (Tunnel-hull)
Norco / OPS 21 Eaglet (Mono)
I enjoyed collecting parts, reworking and restoring what was needed with my engines and really looking forward to hearing them run. If your curious about any of the boats and motors listed, I put a few folders together at my Photobucket link named "Visit My Website" on this page.
Now it's a matter of work picking up again, and I'll be able to set up my wood shop and start cutting parts. Until then, my Eagle and Sprint are the only ones I have for the lake so far.
A Miss Unlimited has always been a desire of mine, and will be a nice old school project for later after this fleet gets built where some scale detail can be worked into the boat, or perhaps a full scratch-built 1/8th scale hull.
Here's a few pics to go with the text.
After that, I spent quite a few years building R/C and Control Line airplanes along with scale plastic models. I have entered international competitions and eventually won first place (IPMS Regional Award in Motorcycle Class - Honda NSR 250GP) and continue to enjoy them both, my favorite being my 2M wingspan R/C gliders.
Back to boats, the first step back into it for me was traveling and meeting everyone at the races within my region the first season to help give me an idea what classes I would be interested in building and possibly racing, so I settled my first purchase on a Dumas Eagle Sport 40 and an OPS .45 for power.
During my time building the Eagle, I ran a Dumas ABS Sprint with a K&B 21SS Outboard to get a feel if I would enjoy a tunnel, and decided for a wood hull in the future.
After getting some driving time and tuning with the Sprint tunnel (I already had a few years competing with a pistol grip with an Associated RC10 Buggy) I decided I was going to stay in boats here on out and bought all the Dumas kits that interested me, and staged a fleet to be built all at one time.
I am just working with the Dumas kits as templates and using my own wood selection for each, and so far have accomplished collecting all the motors and hardware for each. Everything is staged up to the point of just building the hulls.
Here's what is ready for the bench:
Dumas / Cox .05RC SK-Daddle, Jr. (Flat Bottom)
Dumas / Cox .049TD Atlas Van Lines 18" (Hydroplane)
Dumas / Cox .09RC Ske-Vee 10 (Deep Vee)
Dumas / K&B 21 SK-Daddle, Too (Flat Bottom)
Dumas / Webra 20 Drag N' Fly 20 (Hydroplane)
Dumas / Webra 40 Drag N' Fly 40 (Hydroplane)
Dumas / Webra 61 Drag N' Fly 60 (Hydroplane)
Dumas / Moki 40 Atlas Van Lines 40 (Hydroplane)
Dumas / K&B 21 Hot Shot IV (Tunnel-hull)
Norco / OPS 21 Eaglet (Mono)
I enjoyed collecting parts, reworking and restoring what was needed with my engines and really looking forward to hearing them run. If your curious about any of the boats and motors listed, I put a few folders together at my Photobucket link named "Visit My Website" on this page.
Now it's a matter of work picking up again, and I'll be able to set up my wood shop and start cutting parts. Until then, my Eagle and Sprint are the only ones I have for the lake so far.
A Miss Unlimited has always been a desire of mine, and will be a nice old school project for later after this fleet gets built where some scale detail can be worked into the boat, or perhaps a full scratch-built 1/8th scale hull.
Here's a few pics to go with the text.
#5
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Bring out the old stuff
It is baked on at 350 degrees for three hours, and contains a bunch of ceramic. It almost seems like powdercoat when your done. I've sanded and filed it. It's tough stuff.
Dupli-Color has a line of High-Heat (1200 deg) Ceramic paint in the shaker can. Found it at our local AutoZone about eight bucks a can. The silver is awesome. Looks like satin chrome and doesn't even pick up finger oils when your done. There's other colors too if you want to get fancy, solid basic colors and Iron type colors.
Just be sure to clean your cases good with a stainless brush and Wright's copper cleaner with a toothbrush. Wright's is water soluble pots and pans cleaner from the supermarket isle. No oily stuff!!! Then dish soap and hot water, dry the cases in the oven on low.
As for the fuel proofness, time will tell...I haven't any hulls ready to run the ones I've painted, but expect no problems at all. I've tried rubbing it off hard with methanol on a rag, nothing...
I guess I could have soaked a water jacket first in fuel before going all the way with it, but after I seen and felt how it turned out after baking, I just went for it.
If anything does happen, I bet hands down it will more than likely just flake off, not melt.
Depending what I see after putting one to use for a season, I wouldn't mind treating a pipe with it to see what happens.
Here's the Silver, Black and Iron colors. Just the aluminum cases were painted, the other aluminum is polished or just cleaned with Wright's. All the mating surfaces were masked, including under the mounting lugs. It looks thick but thats only because I smoothed the cases first. It actually shrinks down to a nice, thin, sturdy coat of paint.
I gave them two coats, one dust coat, let it flash over and tack up, then a complete color coat and done. Used my trusty toaster oven after they were dry, with a sheet of tin foil loose over the top to not burn it from the element. Don't let any metal touch the paint when you bake it.
People have used Rust-O-Leum Barbecue Black on their motors, which does okay but it flakes off over time and starts to look ratty.
If this happens to mine I'll just grit blast it off, and be happy with that.
Dupli-Color has a line of High-Heat (1200 deg) Ceramic paint in the shaker can. Found it at our local AutoZone about eight bucks a can. The silver is awesome. Looks like satin chrome and doesn't even pick up finger oils when your done. There's other colors too if you want to get fancy, solid basic colors and Iron type colors.
Just be sure to clean your cases good with a stainless brush and Wright's copper cleaner with a toothbrush. Wright's is water soluble pots and pans cleaner from the supermarket isle. No oily stuff!!! Then dish soap and hot water, dry the cases in the oven on low.
As for the fuel proofness, time will tell...I haven't any hulls ready to run the ones I've painted, but expect no problems at all. I've tried rubbing it off hard with methanol on a rag, nothing...
I guess I could have soaked a water jacket first in fuel before going all the way with it, but after I seen and felt how it turned out after baking, I just went for it.
If anything does happen, I bet hands down it will more than likely just flake off, not melt.
Depending what I see after putting one to use for a season, I wouldn't mind treating a pipe with it to see what happens.
Here's the Silver, Black and Iron colors. Just the aluminum cases were painted, the other aluminum is polished or just cleaned with Wright's. All the mating surfaces were masked, including under the mounting lugs. It looks thick but thats only because I smoothed the cases first. It actually shrinks down to a nice, thin, sturdy coat of paint.
I gave them two coats, one dust coat, let it flash over and tack up, then a complete color coat and done. Used my trusty toaster oven after they were dry, with a sheet of tin foil loose over the top to not burn it from the element. Don't let any metal touch the paint when you bake it.
People have used Rust-O-Leum Barbecue Black on their motors, which does okay but it flakes off over time and starts to look ratty.
If this happens to mine I'll just grit blast it off, and be happy with that.
#7
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RE: Bring out the old stuff
Hello jetpack,
I like the work your doing with "the old stuff", my history is similar to yours. I also have staged for the bench a SkDaddle two-power is undecided, 2 ea SkDaddle Jrs w/ classic .o49s, these two boats will be identical so they can race together in a future vintage class. And finnally an 18" Atlas Van Lines w/Meddallion .049 w/ the exhaust throttle. Doing alot of powder coating at home using the Craftsman setup works pretty good for an amatuer, mainly the hardware, motor mounts. If anything it does perty up your boat and provide protection against corrosion. I havent tried it on any engine or exhaust parts yet. Anyway thanks for keeping the old stuff alive, I have seen your stuff at Intl waters as well, take care.
bokker
I like the work your doing with "the old stuff", my history is similar to yours. I also have staged for the bench a SkDaddle two-power is undecided, 2 ea SkDaddle Jrs w/ classic .o49s, these two boats will be identical so they can race together in a future vintage class. And finnally an 18" Atlas Van Lines w/Meddallion .049 w/ the exhaust throttle. Doing alot of powder coating at home using the Craftsman setup works pretty good for an amatuer, mainly the hardware, motor mounts. If anything it does perty up your boat and provide protection against corrosion. I havent tried it on any engine or exhaust parts yet. Anyway thanks for keeping the old stuff alive, I have seen your stuff at Intl waters as well, take care.
bokker
#8
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Bring out the old stuff
Hi Bokker, we'll definetly have to keep in touch.
Not many into Cox power these days. Your projects sound great. The Medallions are nice motors, little down on power than a full blown TD, but easier to start and a lot nicer on glow plugs. You might want to consider swapping out the cranks for a TD crank if you want more speed, and still keep the throttle.
As a side note which you might like to know, I had written Dumas awhile back concerning brass .049 props which they had discontinued for ages and was told they were out of production without much hope of seeing them again, but now I see they have added back their full line of JG props, which include the 1" x 1" x 1/8" brass, so grab a few while you can! [8D] Let me know if you can find any 5-40 small pattern hex nuts besides going to Dumas for mounting props. I found Stainless Steel ones but only from a global manufacturer, impossible to contact about purchasing just a personal handfull of them.
Tell me more about this upcomming vintage class? I haven't heard anything about it.
I just picked up the missing link in my boat fleet this last weekend. It is a Drag' N Fly 20 Mk.I kit, which will match my other Dragon's...the 40 and 60 versions. It is almost an extinct kit, with plenty of Mk.II's that replaced it which is the original kit that had been pickle-forked and the transom adapted for an outboard. I suppose it was an attempt at popularizing the former kit to the "new" outboards from K&B.
It's going to be great for me to have all three sizes of Dragons with matched sized Webra's to go in it. I was worried I was going to have to settle with the oddball Mk.II kit or scale down one of the others - not something I really wanted to try.
Not many into Cox power these days. Your projects sound great. The Medallions are nice motors, little down on power than a full blown TD, but easier to start and a lot nicer on glow plugs. You might want to consider swapping out the cranks for a TD crank if you want more speed, and still keep the throttle.
As a side note which you might like to know, I had written Dumas awhile back concerning brass .049 props which they had discontinued for ages and was told they were out of production without much hope of seeing them again, but now I see they have added back their full line of JG props, which include the 1" x 1" x 1/8" brass, so grab a few while you can! [8D] Let me know if you can find any 5-40 small pattern hex nuts besides going to Dumas for mounting props. I found Stainless Steel ones but only from a global manufacturer, impossible to contact about purchasing just a personal handfull of them.
Tell me more about this upcomming vintage class? I haven't heard anything about it.
I just picked up the missing link in my boat fleet this last weekend. It is a Drag' N Fly 20 Mk.I kit, which will match my other Dragon's...the 40 and 60 versions. It is almost an extinct kit, with plenty of Mk.II's that replaced it which is the original kit that had been pickle-forked and the transom adapted for an outboard. I suppose it was an attempt at popularizing the former kit to the "new" outboards from K&B.
It's going to be great for me to have all three sizes of Dragons with matched sized Webra's to go in it. I was worried I was going to have to settle with the oddball Mk.II kit or scale down one of the others - not something I really wanted to try.
#10
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RE: Bring out the old stuff
Hey Jetpack,
Thanks for the heads up on the props I will definitely pick some of those up. I wonder if Micro-Fasteners would have those 5-40 nuts. I will put my best man on it. What would be real nice is a flex coupler which had a 5-40 stud. In the past I have made my own w/ less then desirable results.
The vintage class that I had mentioned is something I hope to get going on a local level here in the Northwest area, and if popular enough it may get voted in as an official class. I think it would alot of fun and really bring back some memories. I have a few projects to finish first before I dive into the vintage boats, collecting a few parts along the way. If I could figure out a way to stay home, build boats and make as much as my real job than I can actually get ahead, anyway just dreamin there. Talk to you later.
Too many projects, too little time.
bokker
Thanks for the heads up on the props I will definitely pick some of those up. I wonder if Micro-Fasteners would have those 5-40 nuts. I will put my best man on it. What would be real nice is a flex coupler which had a 5-40 stud. In the past I have made my own w/ less then desirable results.
The vintage class that I had mentioned is something I hope to get going on a local level here in the Northwest area, and if popular enough it may get voted in as an official class. I think it would alot of fun and really bring back some memories. I have a few projects to finish first before I dive into the vintage boats, collecting a few parts along the way. If I could figure out a way to stay home, build boats and make as much as my real job than I can actually get ahead, anyway just dreamin there. Talk to you later.
Too many projects, too little time.
bokker
#11
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RE: Bring out the old stuff
Hey Jetpack,
Here are a couple of pictures of the Dumas 18" Miss Thriftway kit modeled after Miss Madison. I watched this auction on Ebay it sold for $1,200 this is a fine model, I did save the pictures. I have some more at my home PC that I will post, you can tell that this was definately "old school".
bokker
Here are a couple of pictures of the Dumas 18" Miss Thriftway kit modeled after Miss Madison. I watched this auction on Ebay it sold for $1,200 this is a fine model, I did save the pictures. I have some more at my home PC that I will post, you can tell that this was definately "old school".
bokker
#12
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Bring out the old stuff
Bokker,
You're charging me up on the 1/2A.
I watched that auction also, fantastic model. Love the hardlines to the motor on it. I wonder how he did the end connections.
I sure would love to have a set of templates and instruction sheet to that one. Incomplete and tattered examples of that kit I have seen go sheer past $50 dollars, and thats almost throw-away quality.
I have quite a few things I would like to share concerning 1/2A boats, so instead of throwing this good vintage thread off track, I'll start a 1/2A Club Corner thread and we can post there.
Thanks for the pics!
You're charging me up on the 1/2A.
I watched that auction also, fantastic model. Love the hardlines to the motor on it. I wonder how he did the end connections.
I sure would love to have a set of templates and instruction sheet to that one. Incomplete and tattered examples of that kit I have seen go sheer past $50 dollars, and thats almost throw-away quality.
I have quite a few things I would like to share concerning 1/2A boats, so instead of throwing this good vintage thread off track, I'll start a 1/2A Club Corner thread and we can post there.
Thanks for the pics!
#14
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Bring out the old stuff
SpecialK1, your twin Allyn Sea Fury is polished up beautifully! Lawdy!...That has to be the absolute peak of 1/2A outboards.
I like polished engines too. Here's a Merc for outboard racing.
A little off track, but vintage and beautiful none the less and thought you would enjoy it as its similar to your liking.
I'm experienced in plastic injection moldmaking, and our saying goes, "If it's not polished...it's not done!"
If you would like some Sea Fury articles...I have a boat load...just PM me with your email and I'll gladly send you them.[sm=thumbup.gif]
I like polished engines too. Here's a Merc for outboard racing.
A little off track, but vintage and beautiful none the less and thought you would enjoy it as its similar to your liking.
I'm experienced in plastic injection moldmaking, and our saying goes, "If it's not polished...it's not done!"
If you would like some Sea Fury articles...I have a boat load...just PM me with your email and I'll gladly send you them.[sm=thumbup.gif]