Chine Walk Soulution for Nitro Hammer?
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Hi!
My little daughter's Aquacraft Nitro Hammer does do "chine walk" at the full throttle. I bent down the trim tabs, and it abolishes chine walk, but it drags too much water and runs the nose too low in water, becoming noticeably slow. If the nose of the boat comes out of water properly, then, chine walk happens.
Thus, I made bigger trim tabs, but still chine walk happes. This chine walk is not too too bad, but does not look good at all at the full speed.
Could anyone give me any ideas to solve this problem?
Thank you very much for your attention!
James of New Westminster, B.C., Canada
My little daughter's Aquacraft Nitro Hammer does do "chine walk" at the full throttle. I bent down the trim tabs, and it abolishes chine walk, but it drags too much water and runs the nose too low in water, becoming noticeably slow. If the nose of the boat comes out of water properly, then, chine walk happens.
Thus, I made bigger trim tabs, but still chine walk happes. This chine walk is not too too bad, but does not look good at all at the full speed.
Could anyone give me any ideas to solve this problem?
Thank you very much for your attention!
James of New Westminster, B.C., Canada
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make shure the prop is sharpend and ballanced not shure if its adjustable but also adjust prop angle on the strutt also prop hight also can give this a read [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2138899/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm[/link]
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Have you blue print the hull? I had the same problem in a gas mono and it turns out that it was a hook in the hull. I sand it and the problem was solve.
Good luck.

Good luck.
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ORIGINAL: khkim0102
Hi!
My little daughter's Aquacraft Nitro Hammer does do ''chine walk'' at the full throttle. I bent down the trim tabs, and it abolishes chine walk, but it drags too much water and runs the nose too low in water, becoming noticeably slow. If the nose of the boat comes out of water properly, then, chine walk happens.
Thus, I made bigger trim tabs, but still chine walk happes. This chine walk is not too too bad, but does not look good at all at the full speed.
Could anyone give me any ideas to solve this problem?
Thank you very much for your attention!
James of New Westminster, B.C., Canada
Hi!
My little daughter's Aquacraft Nitro Hammer does do ''chine walk'' at the full throttle. I bent down the trim tabs, and it abolishes chine walk, but it drags too much water and runs the nose too low in water, becoming noticeably slow. If the nose of the boat comes out of water properly, then, chine walk happens.
Thus, I made bigger trim tabs, but still chine walk happes. This chine walk is not too too bad, but does not look good at all at the full speed.
Could anyone give me any ideas to solve this problem?
Thank you very much for your attention!
James of New Westminster, B.C., Canada
IMO, chinewalk starts when the hull lifted out from the water at high speed, in particular with nitro hammer the submerge prop hull design is the common cause, once a certain speed reaches the lifting point of the hull out of the water then the chinewalk starts, it bounces side to side and becomes unstable because there is only a small area touching the water and this small area which is mostly the prop can't maintain the balance and stability of the boat. In connection to trimming the tab down what happen is it brings the bow down, prevent the hull from lifting and more hull contact surface to the water which resulting to eliminate the chinewalk.
..also remember the the propwalk may contribute to the chinewalk..
so, for this kind of hull it is very difficult to eliminate the chinewalk at higher speed.
my idea to minimize the chinewalk is to center balance the boat, like balance left/ right. change to surface drive.
#5

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An addition thought. I just went to the Aquacraft site to confirm my suspicion but what may be happening is that once the hull gets so high up on plane that the trim tabs aren't doing anything as they could be out of the water. A dull prop sure can't help matters either.
On a normal surface drive boat we'd look at where the strut is as it doesn't take much of it being either too high or low to make it dance. The prop is the next culprit After that I'd look at prop size. You can only squeeze only so much under that hull. If I remember correctly, there isn't room for much more than a 35mm prop under there.
On a normal surface drive boat we'd look at where the strut is as it doesn't take much of it being either too high or low to make it dance. The prop is the next culprit After that I'd look at prop size. You can only squeeze only so much under that hull. If I remember correctly, there isn't room for much more than a 35mm prop under there.
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Hi, guys!
Thank you very much for your kind answers!
As Ron says, there is not enough room to put a bigger prop. Instead, I tried a coarse pitched prop in the same diameter, but the engine couldn't handle it. With this prop, the boat became much slower.
I will do some research on the site that RCGUY 1411 addressed.
But I would like to know about the detail of what Angel 727 did on his boat.
Then, talk to later!
Thank you very much again!
Thank you very much for your kind answers!
As Ron says, there is not enough room to put a bigger prop. Instead, I tried a coarse pitched prop in the same diameter, but the engine couldn't handle it. With this prop, the boat became much slower.
I will do some research on the site that RCGUY 1411 addressed.
But I would like to know about the detail of what Angel 727 did on his boat.
Then, talk to later!
Thank you very much again!