Wrong collet as it'll be too long. I've cut these down before, a little crude but it worked.
Use the extra nut that comes with the prop nut otherwise you'll be tossing props.
The stuffing tube goes all the way through the strut. you can cut it off at the transom before tacking it back into place. That'll make the strut more adjustable.

Would you mind sending me a link to the right collet?

Thanks!

Looking for it. Octura quit making them for a while but started again. The guy that I buy all of my Octura parts from called me asking if I had a spare!
ProBoat had one for their Miss Bud boats but I don't know if you can get those anymore either.

OK, seeing how I don't have any fancy tools in the dungeon like a lathe I just chucked up a drill bit into a drill that fit the collet and while running, took a hacksaw blade to it. Sure, it was crude but it worked. You'll see that the shoulder will have to be cut off behnd the hex.

OK, I see. Thanks for the description.
Is this collet that much better than the stock one? The stock Aquacraft one is still pretty easy to find on many web sites. Plus the one I removed still looks in decent shape. What broke was the shaft.

I had nothing but trouble with mine. Every time that I'd grease the cable and put it back in the collet would start to flare and it then would need more tightening to keep the cable from getting loose. It's a fault of the design of it so it's a good thing that you're replacing it.
The Ed Hughey cables are some of the best out there, I've been using them for years. I even met Ed 2 years ago, a really nice guy.

This is an old thread, but I took my SV27N out to the lake recently ;) Problem is it doesn't want to turn right. It looks like prop is coming out of the water and boat decelerates. I'm not sure what's wrong as I took the boat apart (down to empty hull) in the winter to properly clean it, so all my previous settings are gone.
I tried to bend right tab upwards to no vail. Setting strut to positive and negative also doesn't help.
I'd appreciate any hints what to do to make boat turn right properly.


On the plus side - I did a sketch of radio box and printed in on my 3D printer - it's sturdy, will outlast the original one :) I'll share it on thingiverse soon.

T.

It sounds like somehow it got itself nose-heavy during the rebuild. On mine I cut the stuffing tube to really make it adjustable but kept the stock settings. I put trim tabs on from Offshore Electrics but didn't really need to mess with those either.
Jerry Dunlap added a god 2-1/2 oz. of lead in the tail-end of his to settle his down. You can slide it in under the radio box.

Thanks Ron, I indeed have a lighter radio box and a lighter receiver. I will try to balance it a little bit more rear-heavy.

T.

Is it only me left with SV27 nitro? :) I set the strut to a negative angle and turning right was OK.

Unfortunately glow plug failed into the engine. Piston and sleeve are heavily scratched. Does anyone have a spare set (AQUG4601) to sell or know a shop where it's actualy available? I believe Aquacraft discontinued this part :/

Oh - maybe someone found an alternative set from different vendor?

T.

Thanks Jimm58 - are you in any way associated with this page? I e-mailed them about availability 2-3 months ago, but no reply :/


T.

I can't edit my last post, so here it goes.
FYI: it looks like Aquacraft has changed the process of flex shaft manufacturing. My old shafts were only glued/soldered. New one is also kneaded (?). Photo below:



http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2081437



//edit
I contacted www.osengines.gr again some time ago (thank you jimm58) and here's the result:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2087816

I fixed engine #1 today and it started literally on the first pull ;)

T.

Engine did start on the first pull, but the flex shaft broke during first few meters on the water. Bye bye 3-bld Grimm's prop, rigid part of the shaft with new drive dog mount and prop shaft bushing... Not the first time it happened with Aquacraft's shaft :(

T.