SHRIKE CLUB # 1
#77
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Well she flew GOOD nice sound on fly-by the landing was a little rough but no damadge im defenatly looking into a Shrike 40 the plane handles AWSOME.....
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Good to hear you enjoyed the flight. The .40 shrike has to be a ball to fly . I am contemplating getting the ARF version of the .40 from tower hobbies. Spring is around the corner and I don't want to get caught in the middle of building and wanting to fly.
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Not yet , I am trying or planning to buy separate receivers for all of my planes so there goes a bunch of money. Also maybe it's just me but hobby people has some really decent planes I am looking to buy.
First things first I need to get out of the slump I am in as far as crashing .[&o] So back to the trainer , after i repair it , I hope it's just passing bad luck.
First things first I need to get out of the slump I am in as far as crashing .[&o] So back to the trainer , after i repair it , I hope it's just passing bad luck.
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
ORIGINAL: Medevack1
Anytning new on new Shrikes?
Anytning new on new Shrikes?
#84
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Looking good. I hope I'm not imagining that I see wide stripes on the bottom of the wings, you'll need them for visibility. The white will be hard to see on cloudy days.
#85
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Is this visible enough for ya? I am considering smoking the canopy to make the top a little more visible. I agree, white can all but disappear on a cloudy day.
#86
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
How is the balance with all that weight up front? I know that CG has been an issue with Shrike 10s with big engines. I am building one with an OS32 F on a pipe, and have dropped the firewall back almost 3/4" to help with the balance. Also, am going to replace the spars with carbon fibre to avoid the possibility of breakage under high G loads.
John
John
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
VERY NICE , as cheap as the LA series is now I would even say you made a good choice in the engine. Get ready to have a ball and remember throttle management.
#88
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I moved the firewall back a full inch. The spinner backplate is basically the same place as stock. I decided to go back a full inch after reading so many posts where people ended up dealing with a nose-heavy airframe after installing a big engine on this plane. The real limit to how far back you can go is the second fuselage former. If you go back too far there won't be enough room for the fuel tank.
Take a closer look at my pictures you'll see I haven't added the sheeting to the center of the horizontal stab yet. This is in case I need to locate the battery or elevator servo back there to deal with balancing issues later on. I'll post some final pics and weight once I have all the radio equipment so everyone can see what is needed to get the correct balance with this engine.
Some other minor changes in my overall plan are a slightly larger elevator than stock and I fully sheeted the wings (along with spruce spars) instead of using cap strips. The sheeting will add a small weight penalty over the cap strips but I am hoping it adds considerable torsional rigidity to the wings that they wouldn't have otherwise. I am also installing a 6 oz. tank instead of a 4 oz. one. The tank will have to be put in on its side to fit in the fuse. That is the only area where I feel I may run into trouble - the outlet on the tank may be a bit low so I plan on some testing to make sure it is working OK. I will revert to a 4 oz. tank if it ends up being a problem.
Take a closer look at my pictures you'll see I haven't added the sheeting to the center of the horizontal stab yet. This is in case I need to locate the battery or elevator servo back there to deal with balancing issues later on. I'll post some final pics and weight once I have all the radio equipment so everyone can see what is needed to get the correct balance with this engine.
Some other minor changes in my overall plan are a slightly larger elevator than stock and I fully sheeted the wings (along with spruce spars) instead of using cap strips. The sheeting will add a small weight penalty over the cap strips but I am hoping it adds considerable torsional rigidity to the wings that they wouldn't have otherwise. I am also installing a 6 oz. tank instead of a 4 oz. one. The tank will have to be put in on its side to fit in the fuse. That is the only area where I feel I may run into trouble - the outlet on the tank may be a bit low so I plan on some testing to make sure it is working OK. I will revert to a 4 oz. tank if it ends up being a problem.
#92
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Thanks, I did solid red on the bottom so I could easlily tell top from bottom. It worked great yesterday when I trimmed out the controls . However I put it on e-bay a few minutes ago to fund my next building project. Sometimes I think I really enjoy the building the best. Flying is cool too [8D]
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
ORIGINAL: Dead eyes
Sometimes I think I really enjoy the building the best. Flying is cool too [8D]
Sometimes I think I really enjoy the building the best. Flying is cool too [8D]
Me too! Especially when yoU fly what you build. Also you can buIld in all weather or at night.
jess
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I am just itching to build my first kit.
I have an OS 25 that would work for the .15 kit. I understand that the firewall would need to be shortened.
Would the .40 kit or arf be any better? Is there any better flyer, between the three?
I have an OS 25 that would work for the .15 kit. I understand that the firewall would need to be shortened.
Would the .40 kit or arf be any better? Is there any better flyer, between the three?
#95
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
ORIGINAL: RCBOZO
I am just itching to build my first kit.
I have an OS 25 that would work for the .15 kit. I understand that the firewall would need to be shortened.
Would the .40 kit or arf be any better? Is there any better flyer, between the three?
I am just itching to build my first kit.
I have an OS 25 that would work for the .15 kit. I understand that the firewall would need to be shortened.
Would the .40 kit or arf be any better? Is there any better flyer, between the three?
I chose the .10 size because it's more portable than the .40. It easily fits in the trunk.
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
IMO the bigger the plane of the same make, the better it should fly. Not to mention it's easier to see. But bigger means more power is needed (engine) when it comes to speed. I first put an ASP .15 on the nose of my shrike .10 and it flew ok. Then I put a .28 on the nose and it flew much better. If you don't like speed than stick with the recommended engine.
#99
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Building a Shrike40, was trying to decide between a .40 size or a .46 engine. Which make for better take offs and unlimited vertical? I'm a little afraid of overpowering the Shrike and making it hard to control. Which engine?
I'm adding landing gear as I firmly believe that an airplane must take off and land on wheels to be a an airplane.
A glider, well, that's another matter.
As far as speed reduction due to landing gear, I'm not bothered by that.
How far back on the wing do I put the landing gear.?
I'm assuming just past the CG so that I get rotation on lift off and not a leap into the air.
Any help would be appreciated.
By the way, the building instructions suck. A few pictures would have made the chore much easier.
Wonder why they didn't include them?
TomC
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I'm adding landing gear as I firmly believe that an airplane must take off and land on wheels to be a an airplane.
A glider, well, that's another matter.
As far as speed reduction due to landing gear, I'm not bothered by that.
How far back on the wing do I put the landing gear.?
I'm assuming just past the CG so that I get rotation on lift off and not a leap into the air.
Any help would be appreciated.
By the way, the building instructions suck. A few pictures would have made the chore much easier.
Wonder why they didn't include them?
TomC
[email protected]
#100
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RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Hi and welcome to the club tccrab, To answer your question about the pictures, basically this is an advanced RC airplane in all aspects. I too didn't like the instructions but am now glad I mad it through the build with out them as I learned to read , reread, and reread the instructions again before doing any cutting or gluing.
Tower Hobbies has a ARF SHRIKE that has wheels. Maybe you can look at the instructions for it to get some ideas about how to install wheels on your SHRIKE. I have a MACH RACER .40 size on it's way to my house . Once I get it I can give you some wheel position measurements and hopefully it will help.
One tip I will give you about the SHRIKE is to BUILD SLOW AS POSSIBLE , I made a few mistakes when it came to using the spars.
Tower Hobbies has a ARF SHRIKE that has wheels. Maybe you can look at the instructions for it to get some ideas about how to install wheels on your SHRIKE. I have a MACH RACER .40 size on it's way to my house . Once I get it I can give you some wheel position measurements and hopefully it will help.
One tip I will give you about the SHRIKE is to BUILD SLOW AS POSSIBLE , I made a few mistakes when it came to using the spars.