Blind buying Trex 550E 3GX
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So I bought a Syma108g and a Syma S026G and have decided to get a proper helicopter. Yes, you may now chuckle at the Symas.
I've alays wanted one But never had time and so on.
Initially i was going to buy a 450 pro but after some reseRch i decided on the 550E 3gX.
Primarily because of wind issues and how it gets smaller at distances.
Which transmitter should I get the dx6 or dx7 or 8?
Also, how can you bear to only flight it for 4 to 6 mins?
That's why i bought 2 Symas.
I assume that if i were to charge up to batteries for the align I'd still need to let it cool down before flight sessions right? How long?
Which batteries (mAh and voltage) should I get?
The guy at my lhs said that 30C or 45C are better because i don't plan on any aggressive flying and that 60C batteries would drain my battery faster and than say 30C. My understanding is the higher the C the faster it charges and the longer flying time I have. But the guy said higher C only means more power which flying and my burn my ESC or servo or something if there is too much unused voltage or power.
Money is not an issue.
Thanks.
I've alays wanted one But never had time and so on.
Initially i was going to buy a 450 pro but after some reseRch i decided on the 550E 3gX.
Primarily because of wind issues and how it gets smaller at distances.
Which transmitter should I get the dx6 or dx7 or 8?
Also, how can you bear to only flight it for 4 to 6 mins?
That's why i bought 2 Symas.
I assume that if i were to charge up to batteries for the align I'd still need to let it cool down before flight sessions right? How long?
Which batteries (mAh and voltage) should I get?
The guy at my lhs said that 30C or 45C are better because i don't plan on any aggressive flying and that 60C batteries would drain my battery faster and than say 30C. My understanding is the higher the C the faster it charges and the longer flying time I have. But the guy said higher C only means more power which flying and my burn my ESC or servo or something if there is too much unused voltage or power.
Money is not an issue.
Thanks.
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It is not that C rating that means faster charging. 30C or 45C is right for you. That is the discharge rate under normal power, only if you need it. There is also another C charge rate which should be mentioned on the battery. If you have a 3amp battery, a 1C charge rate means 3amp charge rate. If you charger can put out 10amp, you could charge the battery at 3C or 9amp, if the battery rating allows. But remember that lower charge rates typically mean longer battery life. I always charge my batteries at 1C.
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ORIGINAL: gi1mo2
It is not that C rating that means faster charging. 30C or 45C is right for you. That is the discharge rate under normal power, only if you need it. There is also another C charge rate which should be mentioned on the battery. If you have a 3amp battery, a 1C charge rate means 3amp charge rate. If you charger can put out 10amp, you could charge the battery at 3C or 9amp, if the battery rating allows. But remember that lower charge rates typically mean shorter battery life. I always charge my batteries at 1C.
It is not that C rating that means faster charging. 30C or 45C is right for you. That is the discharge rate under normal power, only if you need it. There is also another C charge rate which should be mentioned on the battery. If you have a 3amp battery, a 1C charge rate means 3amp charge rate. If you charger can put out 10amp, you could charge the battery at 3C or 9amp, if the battery rating allows. But remember that lower charge rates typically mean shorter battery life. I always charge my batteries at 1C.
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Sorry, I should have said longer battery life with lower charge rate. There are many posts on LIPO batteries.
ORIGINAL: hedonist222
Please elaborate. I'm a total noob (but researching like maniac).
ORIGINAL: gi1mo2
It is not that C rating that means faster charging. 30C or 45C is right for you. That is the discharge rate under normal power, only if you need it. There is also another C charge rate which should be mentioned on the battery. If you have a 3amp battery, a 1C charge rate means 3amp charge rate. If you charger can put out 10amp, you could charge the battery at 3C or 9amp, if the battery rating allows. But remember that lower charge rates typically mean LONGER battery life. I always charge my batteries at 1C.
It is not that C rating that means faster charging. 30C or 45C is right for you. That is the discharge rate under normal power, only if you need it. There is also another C charge rate which should be mentioned on the battery. If you have a 3amp battery, a 1C charge rate means 3amp charge rate. If you charger can put out 10amp, you could charge the battery at 3C or 9amp, if the battery rating allows. But remember that lower charge rates typically mean LONGER battery life. I always charge my batteries at 1C.
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On most batteries today like for exmple, Thunder Power, Hyperion, Gens Ace, Pulse, Turnagy nano's tech, you will see a advertised 5c charging rate. This pertains to how fast you can charge the batteries. ie. 1c rate on 5000mah battery would be a 5 amp charge rate. With a 5c rating or greater & with a high power charger & power supply it is possible to charge a 5000mah battery for example in 15-20 min or slightly less, due to now you will be charging the battery at 25 amps instead of 5 amps. That being said, there is something to be said, that charging at these rates will shorten your battery life some. Everything in life is a compramise of one sort or another.
As far as what you need for batteries, for starters I would recommend Gens Ace 5300mah 6s 22.20 volt batteries from Hobbypartz.com.
They balance excelleant on the 550's, are priced at $95.95 per battery have a 30c power rating which has been listed as conservative, and run very cool & nice. I fly with them, as well as many other if you check the forums & they are real decent for the price. I fly sport & light 3D (Loops, rolls, upright funnells, rainbows tic tocs, inverted loops, backward loops, rolls etc, still learning) and I get 5:30-6 min of flight time running a flat 100% throttle curve in idle up on my Dx6i.
The battery ratings advertised ie 30c, for example are for a constant drain. There should also be a burst rating for sudden power demands, like collective pumps, or trying to get youself out of trouble when needed.
Hope this helped some![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
As far as what you need for batteries, for starters I would recommend Gens Ace 5300mah 6s 22.20 volt batteries from Hobbypartz.com.
They balance excelleant on the 550's, are priced at $95.95 per battery have a 30c power rating which has been listed as conservative, and run very cool & nice. I fly with them, as well as many other if you check the forums & they are real decent for the price. I fly sport & light 3D (Loops, rolls, upright funnells, rainbows tic tocs, inverted loops, backward loops, rolls etc, still learning) and I get 5:30-6 min of flight time running a flat 100% throttle curve in idle up on my Dx6i.
The battery ratings advertised ie 30c, for example are for a constant drain. There should also be a burst rating for sudden power demands, like collective pumps, or trying to get youself out of trouble when needed.
Hope this helped some
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The fact that money is not a problem is a good thing for you so to start flying a more difficult to control helicopter than the Syma.
As you will crash a lot and a crash means a lot of money to repair.
With this in mind, money is not a problem, you can buy anything. It does not matter if you buy 30 or 50 or more C.
What it matters is that you must:
a) practice on such a difficult helicopter
b) have the LHS prepare one for you. Better two.
c) confirm that the LHS will repair it when it is needed.
On the other hand I would not make this huge step from an easy to fly 3ch heli to a 6ch CP heli.
I would go for either a bigger 4ch coaxial or a 4ch fixed pitch.
As you will crash a lot and a crash means a lot of money to repair.
With this in mind, money is not a problem, you can buy anything. It does not matter if you buy 30 or 50 or more C.
What it matters is that you must:
a) practice on such a difficult helicopter
b) have the LHS prepare one for you. Better two.
c) confirm that the LHS will repair it when it is needed.
On the other hand I would not make this huge step from an easy to fly 3ch heli to a 6ch CP heli.
I would go for either a bigger 4ch coaxial or a 4ch fixed pitch.
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Thanks guys.
But again, will using a 60C give me mor air time or simply more power independent of air time?
But again, will using a 60C give me mor air time or simply more power independent of air time?
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More power, not time. It means that if you need the power, you can get it. But better have an ESC and other electronics that can handle it also. Don't overdo it with higher C rating battery. If the 60C rating battery can give you a 120C burst mode, then an 100A ESC will probably be destroyed if ever you do get the power required. Just think of a hose and nozzle. If you open the nozzle slightly, then enough water goes through to water the plants. If you are impatient, you can dump a pail of water on the plants, and empty the water reserve in no time flat. The more C you output, the less time it will last. Also, you seem anxious to get as much time as possible. Better get more batteries, and take a mental break every 5-7 minutes. Never over discharge a battery. You will not be able to charge it again. I stop at around 3.75 V each cell. Below 3V, a LIPO battery is dead and cannot be recharges. I started with 20C batteries for my 450, and then went to 25C and higher. Higher rating batteries do run cooler, and my 20C batteries have puffed because of the higher demand in power (as I got better and better flying).
GET A SIM - cheaper and longer flight times. You don't have to worry about batteries nor crashing.
If money is no object, invite me over, and I'll give you a crash course
GET A SIM - cheaper and longer flight times. You don't have to worry about batteries nor crashing.
If money is no object, invite me over, and I'll give you a crash course
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Alright.
They had a lovely 50" flat screen and top of the line pc set u with both real flight and Phoenix.
After 10 mins on real flight i deduced that it's better to learn on a sim than literally crash $1,300 lol.
So I bought Phoenix and the Spektrum DX8. Maybe Real Flight is better but at least i can use my own transmitter.
They had a lovely 50" flat screen and top of the line pc set u with both real flight and Phoenix.
After 10 mins on real flight i deduced that it's better to learn on a sim than literally crash $1,300 lol.
So I bought Phoenix and the Spektrum DX8. Maybe Real Flight is better but at least i can use my own transmitter.
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Good choice. I have a DX7 on Phoenix, and it works great. I also have RealFlight 4.5, and fly it as well, but I do prefer Phoenix. You can crash a lot, no problem. Good luck