Ok, blades are REFUSING to track and I think its causing the blade flutter I previously posted about. I am getting VERY FRUSTRATED[:@]. I spent two whole batteries attempting to get the blades to track and I didn't, they're still pretty far off. Some one PLEASE help before I decide to throw this thing accorss the court by it's tail boom![]

RcFlyer06
Please post continued problems on the same subject in the thread you originally started, it makes it much easier for us to follow along and potentially diagnose your problem.
But with that being said, start over with your heli(basically), take off all the links, check all screws (making sure they aren't too tight or too loose. replace that feathering shaft (if you haven't already).
But basically, just take it apart and inspect everything. Look for cracks, bends anything that doesn't look right.
Good Luck, Don

Thanks Don,
Sorry to those bugged by the double posting, I'm been really frustrated[]. Thanks to all those that have helped, are helping, and are planning to help!!!

Rc,

Have you ever checked the bearings in your blades holders ? Or the blade holders themselves ?? Seeing you have checked everything else this is getting tough ?? One more thing to check is make sure the swash is not comming apart. I'd even check the bearings in the frame , sounds like things got better when you tightened the colar so what the heck ?

Andy

AJ,
so far all the listed check out, allthough I'm not sure how main shaft bearings would mess with blade tracking ^^;. I think I might splurge and go get a new set of non-plastic blades, see if it helps, I'm wondering if maybe I've finally gotten the head speed to high for the plastic ones (I've slowly been increasing head speed as I get more and more comfortable with the extra control)??? THats pretty much my last idea though. Guys thanks very much for all the help and suggestions, I'm sure I'll be back soon enough to complain about soemthing else

Rc,

The bearings are a shot in the dark !! I'm just checking everything now. I'm actually wondering if one of the blades might be damaged. If you look at the bottom of the blade its got like a foil tape covering up ribs in the blade. I'm sure its made that way to make it light. Unless something is loose or broken there is really no reason for the flutter.

Andy

AJ
Well the bearings are fine, but I'd be a lier if I said that both of my stes of blades haven't been in at least one mild crash. Funny though, the white ones (the ones with least crashes) are the ones that flutter, and my yellow ones (they've been through hell, they're the originals, and the ones I've now installed) don't. Know any where that sells good wood blades or CF blades? Do you think the 420lf or event he 430lf can outspin woodblades???? What size should I get wood or if I get CF?

Ok if you change the pitch of the blades 1 full turn and there out of track and turn it back and there still out of track. adjust the long link that runs to the swashplate. 1 full turn on this is like a half turn on the pitch linkage. with this you should be able to get the blades tracking. i had the same problem with a pair of 325 pros, and this is how i got them to track. so try this and let us know how well it works.

Rc,

Don't laugh, but I like my OE yellow blades !! LOL My T-rex fly's very well with 335 or 325 woods but I didn't do so well with the 315 woods. I highly doubt that a 430 or 420 motor will outspin wood blades , but that might depend on your gearing , battery , ESC , ect. I know that Techmodelproducts has 335 woods for a great price but have not yet tried them. I like the idea of CF blades but between the price and basically strapping a guinsoo to your T-rex , its a little scary !! I've heard a few horror stories about blade CP's with CF blades taking chunks out of things. I do not have a ton of experience but if you like the yellow blades you might like 325 woods. If you haven't tried wood blades yet , you do need to know your Heli will get a little touchy with the lighter blades. I've got expo turned up on mine , takes the edge off.

Andy

The Trex kit came with woodblades, I LOVED THEM!!!
I just thought they were weak so I ended up getting woodys (I cracked one in a crash)

Yeah, i've definately found the T-rex wood blades really make the cyclic agressive.



I believe the wood blades are rated for no more than 2500 rpm. Aslong as you aren't running insane headspeeds they should be fine.

RC:

As Don, & I, and others have suggested, the most critical parts are the main shaft, Feathering shaft, all of the ball's tightness in their holders, and, of course, the links themselves. As Don suggested--Start from scratch---Re-Measure everything --Realistically do a total setup. Even use new blades, though I doubt that's the problem. Don't just look at the Main & feathering shafts--REPLACE them--Without precise measuring tools you'll never find a bent shaft. Even the "mildest" crash, where the blade hits something, 90+ % of the time the main & feathering shafts will be bent. I always replace both!!! AND--I've had more than one occasion where a brand new main shaft out of the package is bent. Amongst my large supply of spare parts are at least 15--20 main shafts and featheing shafts.

And do check out the whole head geometry--Be sure the damper grommets on each side are intact and the head is very firmly screwed together.

Don't start worrying about motors, pinion, etc---Get the set up correct & you'll be OK.

And as Don said, bouncing all over the forums will lose the continuity necessary to help you.

Good Luck

Lloyd