futaba 401
#1
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Hi was flying trex xl with futaba 401 gyro but took it off for a swift 16,great helicopter by the way very stable.Anyway it,s killing me to have my trex just sitting there.Can I buy a new 401 and just install on my trex,all my settings are on my transmitter it,s a futaba 7cap,and just fly it or do I have to go through the whole set up over.Would love to have both and use the trex indoors and the swift outside.Ant thoughts on this.
thanks Fred
thanks Fred
#2
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Hi Fred;
I don't think you will have to go through the whole setup again. You had the 401 Gyro on the T-Rex before and now you will have the same gyro. Don't change any of your setting and you be fine.
Please let us know the outcome!!
SLewis
I don't think you will have to go through the whole setup again. You had the 401 Gyro on the T-Rex before and now you will have the same gyro. Don't change any of your setting and you be fine.
Please let us know the outcome!!
SLewis
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when you swap 401's as i have just done on a bird, ensure you reduce the endpoint adjustment on the new gyro to that the same as the old one ,
when i swapped gyro , i ended up burning out my digital servo , due to having tooo much throw still setup on the new gyro
( 90 'limit' on the old gyro as apposed to 140 'limit' was setup on the new gyro ...
easy to do when you are
too keen to get up in the air...
Jase
when i swapped gyro , i ended up burning out my digital servo , due to having tooo much throw still setup on the new gyro
( 90 'limit' on the old gyro as apposed to 140 'limit' was setup on the new gyro ...
easy to do when you are
too keen to get up in the air...
Jase
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hey guys,thanks for the input,I will try it this weekend,hopes it works out.While I have you my swift tail is driffing to the right,not bad but still goes right,any thoughts on this.I,m new to helicopters not planes and trying.Worked on hueys 35 years ago in the army so I would give it a try.
thanks Fred
thanks Fred
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It doesnt hurt to go over everything. Just to be on the safe side. Burned out servos and especially T-Rex's pushing up daisys arent too cool either.
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ORIGINAL: ffdq
hey guys,thanks for the input,I will try it this weekend,hopes it works out.While I have you my swift tail is driffing to the right,not bad but still goes right,any thoughts on this.I,m new to helicopters not planes and trying.Worked on hueys 35 years ago in the army so I would give it a try.
thanks Fred
hey guys,thanks for the input,I will try it this weekend,hopes it works out.While I have you my swift tail is driffing to the right,not bad but still goes right,any thoughts on this.I,m new to helicopters not planes and trying.Worked on hueys 35 years ago in the army so I would give it a try.
thanks Fred
i went back from a hds 577 to an 877 , while the hds 877 is faster than the hds 577 ,
under full collective the hds 877 couldnt hold the tail in check ,
a swap back to a higher torque servo got my tail back rock solid , no matter what orientation the chopper undertook ,
also another observation on the weaker servo was the tail spin ( piro) speed was halved with the weaker lower torque servo fitted too.
it goes to show with the servo tail torque is more important than servo speed for agressive collective flying
.
if its going right then its over correcting on the throttle input , if it goes left , then its undercorrecting , or just plain not in the true centre, that is pressuming you havent got the servo scenario going on that i laid out as an example
Jason
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ORIGINAL: ffdq
hey guys,thanks for the input,I will try it this weekend,hopes it works out.While I have you my swift tail is driffing to the right,not bad but still goes right,any thoughts on this.I,m new to helicopters not planes and trying.Worked on hueys 35 years ago in the army so I would give it a try.
thanks Fred
hey guys,thanks for the input,I will try it this weekend,hopes it works out.While I have you my swift tail is driffing to the right,not bad but still goes right,any thoughts on this.I,m new to helicopters not planes and trying.Worked on hueys 35 years ago in the army so I would give it a try.
thanks Fred
But in my experience, tail drift like you describe is from vibration getting to the gyro. In the half dozen or so cases that I have physically investigated, some element was transferring frame vibration to the gyro, and this lead to inaccurate gyro readings, and tail drift. In every case, changing things around so that the gyro was properly isolated from the vibration corrected the tail drift.
Things like:
[ul][*] Mounting tape. Using thin foam tape or even just double sided tape. Use the stock tape, or two layers of thinner tape.[*] Tight velcro or zip tie retaining loops. The sticky foam tape is most likely enough. If you must, make a LOOSE loop of velcro around the gyro and mount to retain the gyro in case of tape failure.[*] Tight servo wires. If any of the wires going to the gyro are pulled taught, they will transfer frame vibration to the gyro.[*] Gyro case physically touching the frame. On 2 different modes that had the gyro mounted inside the frame, the gyro case touched the side of the frame. Move the gyro, and do not wedge loose wires between the gyro and the frame.
[/ul]
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That motor will fall apart at 220 degrees *ish Thats the temp magnets start to separate. The batteries will get warm/hot depending on what one you are using. The Thunder Power Prolite 2100s prolly will come off after a flight around 90-95 degrees. The new extreme series cells they have come off alot cooler. I average my prolites around 95-97 degrees. Nothing past 100 yet. So its ok if the pack nears 100 degrees. I wouldnt really suggest going much over that to be on the safe side. I have seen many packs not like staying in balance if you break 100 degrees consistantly. You can add a heat sink to the motor to help cool it a couple degrees. Other than that you should be ok. Its going to get hot. Nothing you can majorly do about it. Just make sure ur not baking everything and ull be fine.